View Full Version : Remove Rear Wheel '04 Aero
crackher
05-26-2005, 10:51 AM
I figured I would move this question.
The original thread was under the flat tire, but I think it deserves it own.
How do you remove the rear tire on a 2004 Aero (750)?
I can see how I would disengage the brake and the yolk nut on the non-drive side is self explainatory.
But what happens on the drive side of the bike?
Help, I wanted to do the B.A.D. ride on Sunday
Machinehead
05-26-2005, 05:35 PM
I'd suggest getting a service manual despite any mechanical knowledge you possess. It's a great resource.
T H I S___ L I N K (http://www.sa750.com/sprocketchange/sprocketchange.htm) will take you to Blacktop's page describing the procedure used on the ACE. Should be similar. If you see something that doesn't jibe update this thread.
crackher
05-26-2005, 11:17 PM
I am going to have a better look at it in the morning, but it looks as though there are vast differences between the two models. The no drive side is easy, but unfortunately the ACE is a chain so it does not provide much in the way of illustrations for a shaft drive side removal.
I will continue forth...
Machinehead
05-26-2005, 11:54 PM
Pardon me for not paying attention to your machine...in particular....
Removing and installing the wheel will prolly be a much easier task for you since you will not (at this time) need to "learn" how to adjust the chain. You will, however, need to get familiar with the brake adjustment, torque values and such.
After the axle nut is loosened and the machine is airbourn the right side is where most of the work is performed.
I rate the job (on a scale of 1 to 5) a 3....but ....you'll have to understand how to adjust the rear brakes as well.
Once the bike is lifted and the rear wheel is supported, everything connected to the right side is removed.....then....the wheel "slides-to-the-right" off the splined shaft (the silver differential on the left) and voila. Very easy to reinstall....you will "feel" it LOCK into place.
Having the shaft makes it a very easy procedure providing the machine is stable when lifted.
crackher
05-27-2005, 11:32 AM
[QUOTE=Machinehead]Pardon me for not paying attention to your machine...in particular....
No Problem.. I greatly appreciate the advice....
Once the bike is lifted and the rear wheel is supported, everything connected to the right side is removed.....then....the wheel "slides-to-the-right" off the splined shaft (the silver differential on the left) and voila. Very easy to reinstall....you will "feel" it LOCK into place.
So basically the small yolk nut on the right side gets lossened, the brake cantiller and spring set get disengaged, and removed (I assume counting the threads behind the adjuster nut helps greatly. and then the wheel slips to the right? and comes off. Or do I first losen the big "axle" nut on the drive side in the middle of the hub assembly
navillustoo
05-27-2005, 02:11 PM
Not to jump in MH's deal here, but you will remove the axle before the wheel can come off the drive spline. If the axle is similar to the ones used on the 1100's, it should be basically a bolt with a nut fastening it. Remove the nut and slide the axle out. Then the wheel will come off to the right and down to clear the fender.
Brian
crackher
05-27-2005, 03:04 PM
Perfect Armed with these two posts. I cannot Fail!! :mfight:
awesome I think I may take some pictures of the whole process and post them for others. May be it will work into the "How To" theme
Aside from that does anyone konw the torque specifications for the respective fasteners??
Machinehead
05-28-2005, 12:14 AM
s'not my dealio Navi....it's all crackher's....and the more the merrier, if ya know what I mean.
anyways....
Investing in the service manual will prolly be your best bet crackher. I usually torque the bolts/nuts (other than critical engine fasteners) by feel using the appropiate sized wrench/ratchet. Once again, if you are unsure of your mechanical abilities, please get a service manual....many here can answer questions that the service manual does not elaborate on....short of torque values...unless someone chimes in with specific values....
One thing I can suggest is to secure the "Brake Torque Link" (Number 6 in THIS DIAGRAM (http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0438/swingarm/swingarm.cfm?man=ho&groupid=12310&parent=12290)) before the axle nut (thanks Navi) is torqued..... This is the rod that is secured at the swingarm and fastened to the lower end of the rear brake hub.
In a pinch (without torque values) I use a 3/8 drive ratchet on fasteners 14MM and under and a 1/2 drive on the bigger ones and use my own judgement.
crackher
06-01-2005, 09:21 PM
OK perhaps my mind is having mechanical difficulties but I cannot seem to 'see' where or how this axle will slide out of? I have losened the nut on the drive side of the axle. removed the brake rod from the pivot arm. but there is still a very large ~5/8" hex socket on the other side of the axle 9read non-drive side) which is protected by a pinch/yolk nut and not to mention the exaust pipe?? The axle will not slide out from the hub after I remove the nut, but I think it has something to do with the big hex on the other side of the axle....I don't know I guess this is not something easy. although it looked easy enough to me at first!
Machinehead
06-02-2005, 11:56 PM
The pinch bolts (#12 in the above link) secure the axle once it's torqued....a back-up.
If you are choosing to wrench your machine yourself I'd suggest snagging a service manual. This would ,at least, prove to me that you are willing to take the proper steps....If you are looking for someone to post the procedure directly from the manual then let us know.
Removing the rear wheel is easy, but you have seemed to compound the procedure...
.....and some here at SRN may not feel comfortable in offering sound advice knowing your ass is on the line when it's all bolted back together......this isn't a lawnmower...
.....will this machine be safe to ride when you have completed the job?
crackher
06-10-2005, 02:40 PM
Point well taken...
I grabbed a service manual, and the job was as you have explained it. Only one problem, the hex key on the non-drive side is going to cost me about 25$ and to do the job at a shop is only going to 40$...guess what, thanks but no thanks I'll bring it in....
But Like I said you guys were right on the money....
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