Aero 750 Pipe Mod

[Shadow]

I found this Very useful site while surfin' the other day. Looks pretty simple for the Aero too.
I have never done this, I just thought it interesting.
http://www.sa750.com/exhaust/exhaust.htm

:Peace!:

[Shadow]

Ok, I read it again and it is ACE 750... Menace can you change the name of the thread for me?

[M@Man]

Hey Shadow, go to thread tools, then down to edit thread, and from there you can change the title. Your a moderator, you can do that. :wink_2:

M@

[AirportFF]

yea ya knucklehead :rolleyes5

[RustyJake]

poor shadow, it was already looked after. Had hoped it would have slipped quietly by without anyone noticing.

[M@Man]

I have never done this, I just thought it interesting.
http://www.sa750.com/exhaust/exhaust.htm

:Peace!:

Well, it's still a usefull link nontheless, Shadow. :thumb:

M@

[crackher]

I have done some mods to the stock exhaust. :yellow:

I started with what I believe is called the stage 1 mod. I grabbed a 3/8 piece of bar steel, and basically sharpened the end. Then I made myself a jig that would hold the bar directly in th centre of the upper exhaust exit. Gave it a couple good swift wacks with a mini sledge. Then did the same for the bottom. This was to create a pilot hole for the larger bar. I grabbed some 5/8 bar steel and sharpened it the same way. Then I grabbed a larger hammer. and proceeded to wack the shit out of the baffle. did the same for the bottom. Then in order to gain a little more rumble on the idle side of the throttle. I drilled two holes at 3 and 9 o'clock in the rear baffle. I started with 3/8 then moved up to 1/2 I may bump it up to 9/16 next.

No carb adj. is necessary. and it REALLY makes a difference. :jamming:

Next I may go a little deeper (to the next baffle) the first dtage is about 19" and 9" inches in from the tip. :idea2:

[Matty1378]

I have a aero 750 did both mods 1 and 2, and the bike really started to sound like shit. very loud and high pitched and on decel had a metalic sound to it. I was embararrased to rev her up. This weekend I took the ol' saw blade out and I cut The pipe right b4 where it goes into 1. It sounds like a monster now! I love it. I just need to tweak my carbs this weekend.

[weaselbob74]

Matty, Can you post another picture of your bike on the exhaust side a little farther out. I thought about doing that to my bike.

Right now I drilled through all the baffles. I have about 8 holes that go through all the baffles and it sounds good, but wanna go louder.

[croach1]

You don't have to cut off the canister. I just removed all the baffles from the big 4" pipe. Now I have the headers going into the pipe and it is open.

The sound is pretty good. Not as nice as the drag pipes I had on, but this fits with my forward controls.

[Wicked Wanda]

If any of ya'll want to sell me your canister (actually only need the canister cover and tailpipe end) if it's in good shape (no scratches please), drop me a PM with a price. I'll be interested in purchasing for reasonable $$'s. :happy:

The rounded tip of my tailpipe is starting to discolor very slightly - can use chrome cleaner but eventually that will wear out it's welcome too.

TIA

[nibs75]

You don't have to cut off the canister. I just removed all the baffles from the big 4" pipe. Now I have the headers going into the pipe and it is open.

The sound is pretty good. Not as nice as the drag pipes I had on, but this fits with my forward controls.


What forward controls do you have? Where your pipes cobra drag pipes? I just put mine on, but alos want to get some forwards... Just wanted to know if I'm gonna have issues.... Okay that's a loaded question, anyone that knows me, knows I already have issues...:dizzy:

[weaselbob74]

http://www.geocities.com/kmatuga/aeropipemod.html

<!-- following code added by server. PLEASE REMOVE --><script language="JavaScript" src="http://us.geocities.com/js_source/div03.js"></script><!-- preceding code added by server. PLEASE REMOVE -->

<center>Honda Shadow Aero Pipe Modification</center>
<center>http://www.geocities.com/kmatuga/aero.jpg</center> Tools Needed:
Drill
Various Drill Bits (working up to desired size)
Drill bit extentsion
3 or 4ft. 1" pipe


Description
Sine I have gotten a bunch of E-Mails asking what I did, I thought I would make a How-To. This modification is to increase the sound and possibly the power of a Honda Shadow with stock exhaust. The stock exhaust on the Aero has a "2 into 1" exhaust. Which if you look more closely it has 2 pipes into one muffler but inside the muffler are 2 pipes that run through it. Here is a diagram of the internals of the stock exhaust:


<center>http://www.geocities.com/kmatuga/exhaust.gif</center>

On the back side you should see two one inch openings. Each of those has 3 baffles inside. One at roughly 6 inches, 1 foot, and one and a half feet inside the muffler. Depending how loud you want it to be is how many holes you should drill and how far. I wanted my loud as I could make it without having to re-jet it. I like the amount that I drilled the pipes because it's loud and sounds good at full throttle, but idle and some throttle it is quieter but it does not have that tinging sound that some bikes have when they drill out the baffles.


What I did
First, I drilled the inside of the exhaust pipes out. I used a small bit with a extension on it and drilled around the inside of the pipe making about 8 holes. I then worked up to the next size until I got to a 1/8 (The largest I had). There was then some metal left hanging and this is where the pipe comes in. I took the pipe that fits perfectly inside the 1" exhaust holes and knocked out the remaining part of the baffle. I repeated this for each of the baffles till I got to the curved part of the exhaust. And then I repeated this for the second of the two exhaust pipes.

I then checked the sound and wasn't bad, but I wanted to go louder. If you are content with the sound you should leave it. As you can see from the diagram, there is one pipe in the middle that helps in muffling and transfering the exhaust. So I drilled small holes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. This creates the straight pipe effect. The exhaust now doesn't have to take a single path. I then simultaneous would drill the holes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock bigger and deeper. The deeper you go it seemed like the louder it got. I would use your judgement and drill the amount and size hole for the sound desired.


Some Observations
Some of my observations. Just drilling the pipes not only did not destroy the muffler, but it also did not create any cackling. After drilling out the pipes I increased my gas mileage 2-3 mpg. And there was a noticable performance increase. I drilled out my old Rebel 450 and there was backfiring, but when I did this on the Aero there was basically none. I have over 15,000 miles on my bike and it has backfired about 2 or 3 times, which it might have done anyways.


Testimonial
Thanks again for all your help Keith! I had an opportunity to take my pipes off on Wednesday night and drilled out the baffles. As you had stated.. it was not that difficult to do.I did as you said.. I used a small drill bit all the way around and then used a larger bit to make it easier to hit out. After that I used a pipe to knock them out and then a grinding stone to clean out the rest.After that I drilled out three smaller 3/16" holes through each baffle and had the pleasure of riding it yesterday. It was 44 degrees here in Minnesota yesterday and I brought it out for a short ride and it sounded so much better thanks to you! I now know what you mean about it sounding almost stock at idle and at cruising speed, but when you crack it open.. WOW it sounded great. My son says it sounds more like a chopper now. I was a bit nervous about doing it because I did not want it to sound like my buddies who's sounded tingy and cheap, but I am very happy with the results. It sounds like a much bigger bike and again I thank you so much for all your help.

[carfixer1]

Using this guide, I went so far as to neatly "gut" my pipe to the point where there's nothing rearward of "baffle B", and it sounds and runs great!

[mcvierh]

Hey matty I believe that you can get some ends (tips) for your stubbies from Vance and Hines, you might have to tweek em a little to get em to fit just right they have half a dozen to choose from, I believe they'll add some class to your mod, not that it isn't already classy..just a thought...ride safe, Mel

[NAL]

I have a aero 750 did both mods 1 and 2, and the bike really started to sound like shit. very loud and high pitched and on decel had a metalic sound to it. I was embararrased to rev her up. This weekend I took the ol' saw blade out and I cut The pipe right b4 where it goes into 1. It sounds like a monster now! I love it. I just need to tweak my carbs this weekend.



i made my cut before the can and left the 1 1/4" pipes that went to it, the rear cylinder down pipe is about 1" long and the front cyl. is about 1 1/2", got my friend to spot weld some 2 1/4" O/D exhaust tips from the autoparts store it sounds awesome and looks good, i'll post pics as soon as i find the cam

[dirtwarrior]

How would the exhaust look and sound if mufler was cut just before chamber "A" and 4" turn out chrome extension put on?

[NAL]

ok pics are in look in my gallery under aero 750 exhaust mod not finished but you get the idea

[carfixer1]

What did you do about jetting the carb?

[PatsAce]

You wont have too. If anything you'll have to turn out your air/fuels a bit

[carfixer1]

You will if you stick one of these on.http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=3474

[croach1]

What forward controls do you have? Where your pipes cobra drag pipes? I just put mine on, but alos want to get some forwards... Just wanted to know if I'm gonna have issues.... Okay that's a loaded question, anyone that knows me, knows I already have issues...:dizzy:
I just saw your question. Sorry.

I have Seeger forward controls. I think any of the forwards that mount high on the break peddle side are going to have issues with the Cobra Drag pipes. Something that mounts low like the ace45 forward control extensions will work well with them.

[NAL]

What did you do about jetting the carb?

i also took the intake tube that routes from the air box and opens up under the fuel tank off, bikes come with a rich set up from factory (i was planing on getting some cobra shut gun loboys and was gonna installed them myself i went to the dealer and asked them all it was required like they were gonna do the job and the main tech dude told me tha i didn't really need a jet kit and that was good enough for me, i will eventually get a jet kit but not until i get a different intake/filter setup)

[dirtwarrior]

You will if you stick one of these on.http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=3474

Is that the stock ace pipes? If so I intend to cut it down and leave some of the collector and then put a 4" turned out exhaust extension on it.

[NAL]

Is that the stock ace pipes? If so I intend to cut it down and leave some of the collector and then put a 4" turned out exhaust extension on it.


are you talkin about one of those diesel truck exhaust tips?

[carfixer1]

Is that the stock ace pipes? If so I intend to cut it down and leave some of the collector and then put a 4" turned out exhaust extension on it.

The stock pipes yes, but they're gutted!

[dirtwarrior]

are you talkin about one of those diesel truck exhaust tips?

YES

[carfixer1]

How would you accomplish that and make it look clean?

[dirtwarrior]

http://www.angelusplating.com/pages/products/td3535.htm

with these

[NAL]

theres 2 heat shields the first one (#1) covers where the two down pipes go into the muffler to give the smooth 2 into 1 look, the second shield (#2) covers the muffler, use the muffler schematic on page 2 of this thread as reference:
1. Remove heat shield #2, DO NOT touch shield #1.
2. Once shield #2 is removed cut the can at Chamber A as close to Baffle A as you can.
3. Then try and get the top (rear cylinder) pipe inside the muffler to be as close in lenght as the bottom one(front cylinder).
4. Clean all the cuts and cover with paint so it won't rust where metal is exposed.
5. I think you're gonna need a 5 inch tip, i'll measure when i get home, anyways slide the tip over the section of the muffler that's left
put it at the angle you want the opening to be at, make sure is evenly flush with shield #1, hold it in place and spot weld around the
back side (bike side), once that's done it shouldn't move, so you can finish welding it (since you can't reach under the tip due to shield
one being in the way, i would make the weld from top to bottom around the inside (bike side).
6. Don't forget to paint the weld so it won't rust later on.

Have fun, if you don't get it the way i put it here, let me know and i'll try to explain better.

[NAL]

look at DRFLGD's signature pic on any of his posts his exhaust looks kinda like what you want

[dirtwarrior]

Thanks for the feed back and pictures. I think I can do this and have clean look and good sound.

[NAL]

:thumbsup:

[NAL]

hey make sure you make some kind of braket if you think the exhaust is too heavy at the back end after you put the tip, or you could have issues with the studs that hold the exhaust at the jugs (to much weight could bend them or snap them eventually)
<!-- / message -->

[carfixer1]

theres 2 heat shields the first one (#1) covers where the two down pipes go into the muffler to give the smooth 2 into 1 look, the second shield (#2) covers the muffler, use the muffler schematic on page 2 of this thread as reference:
1. Remove heat shield #2, DO NOT touch shield #1.
2. Once shield #2 is removed cut the can at Chamber A as close to Baffle A as you can.
3. Then try and get the top (rear cylinder) pipe inside the muffler to be as close in lenght as the bottom one(front cylinder).
4. Clean all the cuts and cover with paint so it won't rust where metal is exposed.
5. I think you're gonna need a 5 inch tip, i'll measure when i get home, anyways slide the tip over the section of the muffler that's left
put it at the angle you want the opening to be at, make sure is evenly flush with shield #1, hold it in place and spot weld around the
back side (bike side), once that's done it shouldn't move, so you can finish welding it (since you can't reach under the tip due to shield
one being in the way, i would make the weld from top to bottom around the inside (bike side).
6. Don't forget to paint the weld so it won't rust later on.

Have fun, if you don't get it the way i put it here, let me know and i'll try to explain better. One question though, there appears to be a steel ring around the can that shields 1and 2 are welded to. Am I to assume that you peel shield 2 off that ring?

OK, I'm goin' for it, I ordered my pipe today!

[NAL]

sorry for the late reply, did you get it done?

[carfixer1]

Not yet, I'm trying to figure out how to get shield 2 off. It looks like it is welded to a band that goes around the can that shield one is welded to.

[NAL]

those are spacers (tabs) 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom and are not a ring or a band, the same at the rear end, wrap the exhaust from the # 1 shield forward and put some padding under it to absorb the impact since you don't wan't to scratch or dent that section, those spacers are part of the # 2 shield (each tab is attached to shield 2 by what it looks like 2 small spot welds), but are welded to the exhaust with the spot welds from the # 1 shield and those are super strong welds trust me, ok i hope you didn't offer the # 2 shield to nobody cause it's gonna get fucked up you're gonna have to use a chisel between the tab and shield 2, do not do it between the can and the tab, and be careful not to slip and hit shield 1, then go to the rear end, and it's gonna have the same type tabs, but instead of prying on them like the front just cut the tabs around the welds that are painted black then spray some WD40 at the rear end between the end tip and the can and slide the whole thing out, once you get that done you'll be ready to start with what i posted before, also don't forget to grind down the welds on the tabs under shield 1 try and get them smooth and even with the tabs, that way it'll be easy to slide the new tip on there, hope that helps, don't forget to take pics of the build like i did :thumbsup:

[carfixer1]

OK, finally got the nerve to do this! I did things a little differently though!



As you can see, I clamped mine on. The tip I ordered was 4" I.D. so I had to "trim" the tabs off flush with shield #1, but all in all I think it turned out fine! Also, I drilled out the spot welds on shield #2 before I started to pull it off. Next I'm going to grind the bracket off the stock muffler and welt it to the tip for added reinforcement!
http://img2.putfile.com/main/7/18515300697.jpghttp://img2.putfile.com/main/7/18515300646.jpghttp://img2.putfile.com/main/7/18515300571.jpg

[dirtwarrior]

You did a good job on the pipes. How does it sound?

[carfixer1]

You did a good job on the pipes. How does it sound?

Thanks! I like the way it sounds when I'm riding, as far as everyone else goes it may depend on which side of the street you're standing on when I go by!:thumbsup:

[dirtwarrior]

How much money did this mod cost? And please give step by step tutorial.

[carfixer1]

How much money did this mod cost? And please give step by step tutorial.

The cost was about $60! The company that makes the parts is called Goerlich and you should be able to order the parts through just about any automotive parts store. The part number for the tip is 824715 and the clamp is FB400C. If your parts stores are too lazy to get these for you, any independent exhaust shop should be able to get them for you.

Now for the how to! I'm going to borrow NAL's pic for this since he already numbered the shields. (Thanks NAL!) You're going to need a helper for this, so grab a buddy and a 12 pack! First, remove the exhaust and clamp the muffler bracket in a vise. There are 2 spot welds in each corner of the number 2 shield, I drilled out all four where shield 1 meets shield 2 and the bottom ones where 2 and 3 meet with a 7/64" drill bit. You can get a better idea of where these are from the pictures. Once the drilling is done you can peel the number 2 shield up and out of the way. Here's where your buddy comes in, have him hold the front section of the exhaust while you cut through the muffler even with the forward edge of the bracket that's in the vise. If all goes well your helper should be holding the front pipes with about and inch or so of the muffler protruding from shield 1! Now the fun begins. You'll see that there are "tabs" that are welded to what's left of the muffler that shield 1 is welded to. (and shield 2 was welded to) You'll need to "shave" off the portions of those tabs that shield 2 was spot welded to. Put the pipes on something nice and soft so we don't bang them up. Using a cut-off wheel (zizz wheel) start cutting those tabs flush with the edge of shield 1. In 2 places you'll be cutting through a portion of shield 1 where it's welded to these tabs. Once the tabs are off you may have to weld the end of one fo the tabs that shield 1 is still attached to back to what's left of the muffler. Now that the tabs are gone, make sure you grind any remaing welds on the muffler smooth. At this point you'll want to test fit your tip, it should slip nicely over the remaining muffler body and meet flush with shield 1. If all's good take the tip back off and put your pipes back on the bike. Once that's done and you've started it up and made sure there's no leak at the heads we're ready to put the tip on. Place the clamp on the tip so that the nut on the clamp will be facing in when we put the tip on. Put the tip on (DUH!) and position it the way you want it, slide the clamp up flush with shield 1, have your buddy hold the tip in position while you hold the clamp and tighten the shit out of it! It's tight enough when you can't wiggle the tip around. At this point I made sure everything was aligned the way I want and cleaned the pipes off so as not to bake any fingerprints into the finish! Start it up and relish in the great new sound! Take it around the block a couple of times and retighten the clamp just to be safe! We're not done yet though, go back to the muffler body that we cut off earlier and grind off the original bracket. Bolt the bracket back on the bike and sand the chrome off the new tip in 2 spots where the bracket meets it and tack weld the bracket to the tip. No need for the overkill welding job that was originally there, since the new tip isn't nearly as heavy as the original muffler. Not to mention the fact that if something ever happens to the tip, it'll make it easier to replace. Don't for get to cover all welds and grinding with paint to prevent rust. I used aluminum colored exhaust manifold paint to cover where I welded the braket to the tip!

I hope this was detailed enough, if not drop me a PM and I'll try and help!:thumbsup:

http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3358&stc=1&d=1180596666http://img2.putfile.com/main/7/18611451484.jpghttp://img2.putfile.com/main/7/18611451419.jpg

[NAL]

good job dude that came out nice, :thumbsup:

[carfixer1]

Thanks, I couldn't have done it without ya!

[dirtwarrior]

This was a great thread. Do I need a 4 inch extension? Will it fit snug? If I need a baffel, what shold I use?

[carfixer1]

This was a great thread. Do I need a 4 inch extension? Will it fit snug? If I need a baffel, what shold I use?

You'll definitely need the extension, it'd be rather ugly without it. As for a baffle, you'd have to get pretty creative. You could probably make one out of sheet metal cut in a circle to fit the inside diameter of the extension with some hole drilled in it. It might require some trial and error, but I think it's do-able!

[dirtwarrior]

I didnt word my queston right. I should have said. What size extension do I need?
I found stainless extensions, will they look good with the chrome on the pipe?

[carfixer1]

I didnt word my queston right. I should have said. What size extension do I need?
I found stainless extensions, will they look good with the chrome on the pipe?

It's a 4" X 18" that I used, and you'll need a band clamp for two reasons; 1) the end of the extension is notched, so you'll want to cover that up 2) to hold it on! As for stainless, it probably wouldn't match well.

[dirtwarrior]

I am looking for some like yours but maybe shorter. Do you have a link for chrome ones but maybe 6 inches long?

[carfixer1]

I am looking for some like yours but maybe shorter. Do you have a link for chrome ones but maybe 6 inches long?

The shortest one I have found is 12". Check out the muffler shops for one that sells Goerlich, the part number is 814263.

[dirtwarrior]

I got an exhaust from shadow ace for 25$ in very good shape. Where do I cut the main pipe? Just before where the place for mounting brackets are? What about the heavy 1 inch ring welded around pipe?

[carfixer1]

I got an exhaust from shadow ace for 25$ in very good shape. Where do I cut the main pipe? Just before where the place for mounting brackets are? What about the heavy 1 inch ring welded around pipe?

I cut mine about 1 1/2" behind the collector heatshield. Assuming you're talking about the ring that the heat shields are spot welded to, you need to "shave" it off with a cut off wheel.

[dirtwarrior]

OK what is the easiest and best way to get the rear shield off?

[carfixer1]

OK what is the easiest and best way to get the rear shield off?

What I did was to lightly pry up un the shield at the ends so I could "see" where the spot welds were and drilled through them.

[dirtwarrior]

http://www.geocities.com/kmatuga/aeropipemod.html

<!-- following code added by server. PLEASE REMOVE --><script language="JavaScript" src="http://us.geocities.com/js_source/div03.js"></script><!-- preceding code added by server. PLEASE REMOVE -->

<center>Honda Shadow Aero Pipe Modification</center>
<center>http://www.geocities.com/kmatuga/aero.jpg</center> Tools Needed:
Drill
Various Drill Bits (working up to desired size)
Drill bit extentsion
3 or 4ft. 1" pipe


Description
Sine I have gotten a bunch of E-Mails asking what I did, I thought I would make a How-To. This modification is to increase the sound and possibly the power of a Honda Shadow with stock exhaust. The stock exhaust on the Aero has a "2 into 1" exhaust. Which if you look more closely it has 2 pipes into one muffler but inside the muffler are 2 pipes that run through it. Here is a diagram of the internals of the stock exhaust:


<center>http://www.geocities.com/kmatuga/exhaust.gif</center>

On the back side you should see two one inch openings. Each of those has 3 baffles inside. One at roughly 6 inches, 1 foot, and one and a half feet inside the muffler. Depending how loud you want it to be is how many holes you should drill and how far. I wanted my loud as I could make it without having to re-jet it. I like the amount that I drilled the pipes because it's loud and sounds good at full throttle, but idle and some throttle it is quieter but it does not have that tinging sound that some bikes have when they drill out the baffles.


What I did
First, I drilled the inside of the exhaust pipes out. I used a small bit with a extension on it and drilled around the inside of the pipe making about 8 holes. I then worked up to the next size until I got to a 1/8 (The largest I had). There was then some metal left hanging and this is where the pipe comes in. I took the pipe that fits perfectly inside the 1" exhaust holes and knocked out the remaining part of the baffle. I repeated this for each of the baffles till I got to the curved part of the exhaust. And then I repeated this for the second of the two exhaust pipes.

I then checked the sound and wasn't bad, but I wanted to go louder. If you are content with the sound you should leave it. As you can see from the diagram, there is one pipe in the middle that helps in muffling and transfering the exhaust. So I drilled small holes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. This creates the straight pipe effect. The exhaust now doesn't have to take a single path. I then simultaneous would drill the holes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock bigger and deeper. The deeper you go it seemed like the louder it got. I would use your judgement and drill the amount and size hole for the sound desired.


Some Observations
Some of my observations. Just drilling the pipes not only did not destroy the muffler, but it also did not create any cackling. After drilling out the pipes I increased my gas mileage 2-3 mpg. And there was a noticable performance increase. I drilled out my old Rebel 450 and there was backfiring, but when I did this on the Aero there was basically none. I have over 15,000 miles on my bike and it has backfired about 2 or 3 times, which it might have done anyways.


Testimonial
Thanks again for all your help Keith! I had an opportunity to take my pipes off on Wednesday night and drilled out the baffles. As you had stated.. it was not that difficult to do.I did as you said.. I used a small drill bit all the way around and then used a larger bit to make it easier to hit out. After that I used a pipe to knock them out and then a grinding stone to clean out the rest.After that I drilled out three smaller 3/16" holes through each baffle and had the pleasure of riding it yesterday. It was 44 degrees here in Minnesota yesterday and I brought it out for a short ride and it sounded so much better thanks to you! I now know what you mean about it sounding almost stock at idle and at cruising speed, but when you crack it open.. WOW it sounded great. My son says it sounds more like a chopper now. I was a bit nervous about doing it because I did not want it to sound like my buddies who's sounded tingy and cheap, but I am very happy with the results. It sounds like a much bigger bike and again I thank you so much for all your help.

How far back is chamber A

[carfixer1]

If you cut where I said, you'll be about in the middle of chamber A.

[pittsy]

You will if you stick one of these on.http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=3474


I like the hypercharger. I've put Hard Chromes, re-jetted and removed the snorkle on my Aero(among other things). Been thinking about getting a charger for it. Did you have to run any extra vacuumn lines or any other special mods to get it right? Most of the stealerships advise against the charger on a single carb bike. I do all the work to my bike myself. Any helpful hints are greatly appreciated.

P.S. How do you like the way it runs with the charger ?

[carfixer1]

I love the way it runs. The kit comes with a jet kit and there's some simple plumbing involved. You can check out the instructions here: http://www.kuryakyn.com/documents/installation/9432-21MC-0406.pdf

[pittsy]

Thanks a lot carfixer1. I'll be sure to check everything out.

[dirtwarrior]

http://www.shadowaero750.com/files/baffle.pdf
This link added by request

[dirtwarrior]

On the aero pipes or ace or whatever I got the pipes fit my heads ok but hit the forward control mounts.