Forward Controls

[M@Man]

This is the long awaited Forward Control Mod (well it seemed like a long wait for me :laugh4: )
This mod moves the controls forward 4 inches, I'm 5'9" and it's fits just right.

Now down to bizness...
You need a 1/4 inch thick plate of hardened steel..
Some aluminium diamond plate (if you want..this is optional, for decorative purposes)
Crome tubing
One 13mm socket (you have to cut it, for the Foot Brake control piviot point, it's strong and the foot control fits on it perfectly)
One Brake Rod from a VLX #46540MBS000 582541-9 Rod,R ($30.44)
One Shift Rod from a Sprit 1100 #90065DAF000 313404-6 Bolt ($6.98)
and some nuts and bolts from your local hardware store (metric 8mm)
The brake rod needs to be shortend by 1 inch, but that's easier than trying to add to your exsisting one, so I took the lazy way out :grin: and you will need to bend it in two places for clearence, I just used a bench vice and a metal pole to make the bends.
Now my friends at Giovinini Metals Inc. helped me out (again) they gave me some scrap metal so I could acomplish this, and they shortened the brake rod ($5), now if you can do your own metal work then you're one step ahead of me. I do guess work, and figure things out as I go along.

First you cut you steel plate (which ain't easy using a dremmel) and diomond plate down to 3 inches by 7 1/2 inches (brake side) and 3 inches by 7 inches (shift side) Why not the same for both sides? Trust me, the brake side mounts a little goofy so to move them forward the same on both sides you need that extra 1/2 inch. (see 1st, and 2nd pictures)

Second, take your plates and shape them, I chose a simple rounded shape, but if you've got the ability and time, I say get creative. (3rd and 4th pictures)
If you go with the diamond plate then you must do the same cuts to it, as you do to the steel plate.

Third, measure and mark your plates for the mounting holes. After marking I used a center punch to make a starting point for the drill. (5th picture) Then drill the holes (not shown, I couldn't drill and hold the camera at the same time...sorry)

Fourth, take your 13mm socket and cut it to a length of 3cm. (Yes I had to use metric mesurements these are metric bikes after all)
Then you need to take you chrome tubing and cut it down to make some spacers. 3 @ 2cm, 1 @ 3.5cm & 1 @ 1.25cm (do you hate me for the metric mesurements yet?)
(All of this is shown in pictures 6 & 7)

Guess what? You're done cutting, now all you have to do is...(well I painted the steel plate)...Put it all together! (Picture 8 is all the parts you should have...minus the shift and brake rods...I forgot to put them in the picture.)

Now at this point I hope you know how to put it together, it's real easy...hell! I did it, you can too! :grin: Pictures 9 & 10 show the finnished project on the bike.

Now kick back and enjoy the ride!
M@

[lang]

M@man, I registered so I could thank you for sharing your work on the forward controls. I've looked high and low for fowards for my bike ('88 VT800) and only found one set ($650 and the only US sales rep won't import them). Thanks for your pioneering - it'll make my job that much easier. Hopfully I'll get to fowards later this year. Before that, though, I'll be swapping out my gauges, indicator lights and console for one mini-gauge. Hopefully that'll be done in the next month.

[amazngrace]

They look good M@, How do they feel?

...ED

[M@Man]

Great!, I love 'em. I just wish I could think up something for you 1100 owners and for the other Shadow's too.
You guys could probably get some mounts and connecting rods from a Spirit 1100 and bolt them further up on the frame. Because the Spirit 1100 connecting rod for the brake is the same length as what I need, it was just bent wrong for my mod, that's why I used the one off the VLX. It was strait, and I used the bench vice and a long pipe to bend the slight jog it needed to make.
I don't want Classic Shadow Modifications area to be just strictly for the 700's and 800's, I want mods and pix for all the classic Shadow's. I don't know of any 1100's around my area that I could get mesurements from but I will check around, I'm sure there's got to be one around here.

lang, thanks alot for the comp! Don't be a stranger, and welcome to the funny farm!

M@

[RustyJake]

nice job M@man, and a very good explanation on how to as well as the pics.:luxhello:

[M@Man]

Thanks RustyJake, I didn't get all the photo's I wanted because as I was workin' I'd get involved with what I was doin' and forget to snap some shots. Plus I'm embarrassed about the fact that I didn't take a shot of the brake connecting rod, and the bends that it needed.
But they did turn out better than I thought, I truely have no metal working skills...never took shop in school.
So all of this was really learn as I go and guess work. The fact that it actually worked surprised me! :laugh4:
And it all cost less than 50 bucks! :wink_2:
I'm just glad I was able to contribute something that was valuable to my fellow Shadowriders.


M@

[Menace]

Thanks for the info!

[M@Man]

I figure, if I can do this mod, anybody can. No real skills required, just keep safety in mind folks. Do you have any idea how much a broken cutting disk can hurt when it hits you? I thought the first one took off my finger when it broke, untill I looked (just a nasty scratch.)

Wear your safety glasses!!

You never can tell which direction it's gonna fly.




M@

[lang]

Hey M@man,

what dictated the 4" extention rather than something longer? Personal preference, length of the new brake and shift rods? I was thinking, if the brake rod you used was an inch too long, could you use your basic design and just thread a longer shift rod and fabricate 5" extentions? I'm trying to get as much length as I can (insert joke here) without going so far that I have to use a bracing rod running in front of the radiator to attach the two extentions.

Thanks!

[M@Man]

Good question, I'm glad you asked. It was a couple of factors.

First, the exhaust. I could have gone around it by making the spacers larger and using bigger bolts, but I thought that it would be too much stress on the bolts. I like to have enough strenth in the extentions to be able to stand up and put my full weight on the foot pegs.
Second, yes the length of the rods. I had to shorten the brake rod, but I wanted it to have as clean of look as possible, without a bunch of cut and welds.
Third, yeah it was a little of personal preference.

If you are going to try and make yours longer, might I recommend using a thicker grade of steel. Plus I'm going to add, that depending on your Shadow, you may be able to get that extra inch. On mine the front exhaust angles back as it comes down, but on others I have seen that pipe drop strait down, and that would allow for more room to play.

M@

[vaultingrules]

I was just wondering if the diamond plate would affect the length that the spacers needed to be cut, also what diameter does the pipe need to be cut?

Thanks

Brandon

[86VT700Cmeride]

I recently inherited an 86 vt700 that was out of commision due to missing carbs. Finally i found a set of carbs for $250 (a hell of a deal) the Honda shop wanted $900. I just joined the club yesterday and I have already found so much useful information. My bike and this web site have excited me to the point that I cant stand it. I want to constatly work on my bike. I will take pictures of it now and then when it gets running and then post them for everyone to see.

thank you all, and i'm excited to be here.

[Gangster]

I recently inherited an 86 vt700 that was out of commision due to missing carbs. Finally i found a set of carbs for $250 (a hell of a deal) the Honda shop wanted $900. I just joined the club yesterday and I have already found so much useful information. My bike and this web site have excited me to the point that I cant stand it. I want to constatly work on my bike. I will take pictures of it now and then when it gets running and then post them for everyone to see.

thank you all, and i'm excited to be here.

Congrats on your new bike and welcome to shadowriders.net!:jamming:

[lang]

welcome and bring on the pics!

I quietly tinkered with my bike for many many years and it wasn't until last May that it occured to me to look on-line for shadow resources. I remember how excited I was when I found this board and a couple others where folks were moddin' old shadows - so I know how ya feel.

[vt800c]

thanks for the mod!!! I've been wanting to do this for 2 years! Looks like I can just about grow enough gonads to try it! thank you!

one thing..do you have tracings or drawings about WHERE you did the holes? even something on a piece of graph paper would help..like...how did you attach the brake pivot point? did you use the bottom half of the socket and a bolt through it to the backing plate? or the top half, and just let it 'float'? why the extra 1/2"?

think you could just take them off and trace around it on a piece of paper with a 'scale inch' line on so we could use them as a template 'starting point'? do they need to be bulky, or can you 'contour' them so they look a bit more sleek? what about the heat from the forward cylindar exhaust pipe. has that been an issue?

Ok..thats more than one thing..but this looks like something I could do with a few beers under my belt.

Thanks Dude.

[lang]

vt800c,

m@ hasn't posted since last August, I'd try pm'ing him. If he replies, post the info. I may do this mod this summer as well - ever since I cut down me seat on my 800, I've felt a little squooshed. I figure I'll make plywood templates, shape them how I want and then have them cut out. I may have them chromed as well.

There'd be no reason you couldn't contour them more as long as you don't undermine their strength. I think m@ wanted maximum strength and had limited styling options since he was using a dremel to cut them.

[dk's87]

Hey guys I may be able to help you guys out.
I did this mod last summer and it turned out great.
As for the brake pivot point when you bolt the pegs on the plate if the socket is the right length it will float in there.
As for the bolt alignment you can take the pegs off and use for pattern. I used electrical conduit for spacers until i made aluminum spacers. As for the extra 1/2" it just works.
For the plate i used 1/2" thick aluminum plate.
It really isn't hard if i can do it any one can.
I would say think safe.
Any questions i probably can help.
Oh ya most important what a ride!
I do have high quality pics of mod i could email

[lang]

Thanks Dk,
I pm'ed ya.

[vt800c]

PMd ya myself. thanks for the hint on the plywood...

[medic1br549]

Does anyone know the year of the bikes the new shift and brake rod are from on this mod? I took the numbers to honda and they couldn't find them. If anyone knows the years or where I could get the parts at I really want to make these controls.

thanks

[lang]

Does anyone know the year of the bikes the new shift and brake rod are from on this mod? I took the numbers to honda and they couldn't find them. If anyone knows the years or where I could get the parts at I really want to make these controls.

thanks

46540-MBS-000 (vlx brake rod)
90065-KAF-000 (vt1100 shift rod) - looks like m@ mistyped this one, but I would guess this is what he meant.

[vt800c]

thanks for the info! I'll get them on order tonight. I got the plates from a friend of mine, and he's even gonna drill them for me if I center-punch them! except for the diameter of the chrome tube spacers (maybe I'll just buy a cheap metric socket set and cut them all down, I want to make sure that I have enough 'shoulder' for the spacers and stuff.) as far as the shift rod, I was thinking of getting a couple of clevises and using a piece of all-thread inside a piece of aluminium tubing. Or should I just go the expensive route?

Looking FORWARD to getting this done on my scoot!

[vt800c]

>Update< Plates marked and inwork. Shift rod part-in-hand. Still thinking on the brake rod...but I figure by summer, I'll have a good ride! then comes the next project!

[vt800c]

ok, got the brackets back, drilled. I shot them with some black primer. schweet! picked up spacers from the local hardware store, and after a bit of cussin' and sweatin, got the parts on and adjusted...except..

I don't have the brake rod. I want to try and find one for cheap. I saw one on e-bay, but I'm looking for one I can just cut the ends off of. drill out new holes and use 'allthread' and some parts to make a new rod (I figure to cover it with heat-shrink tubing for a decent look)

SO...if anyone has a dicked-up brake rod they want to get rid of, let me know.

90% there......

[lang]

lets see some pics soon!

[dk's87]

What i did was cut the rod off as close as i could.
Went to ace hardware and got threaded rod and got aluminum tube as tight as i could cover with. It is simple to fabricate size. It worked great until i had someone make me a new one. I did find a rod on ebay if disaster struck.
If i can do it ayone can. the rod cost about $8.00
to create. Good luck.
DK

[vt800c]

Ok..got a used rod from a 99 600VTX. now I got to figure the bends. I figure 2 90-degrees, as the offset is about 2 1/2" and the length is over by about the same amount.

Lessons learned: get the rods and other parts before drilling the plates. you may adjust the drilling to better accomidate the parts you have.
Think about how the plates will sit before shaping them (the right side holes are at a 30 degree down angle, the left was horizontal.)

Pics will follow.

[medic1br549]

Finally able to get some time off and get those forward controls done. I didn't have time to paint them like I wanted but got excited and put em on and rode. Thanks for this site and the mods updates. They gave me a little more trouble than I thought they would with my after market exhaust. But If I can do it any one can. They aren't the prettiest ones out there but damn it's nice to stretch out. I got a few pics if you wanna check them out. I did have to use a 12mm socket instead of a 13mm and the brake side had to be 3 inches by 8.5 inches for it to work on my bike.
Thanks again can't wait to keep working on my Scoot. :jamming:

[lang]

pics bitch!

[fastbiker]

pics bitch!

:werd: I am very interested in this. Anyone chrome their mod?

[Shadow Rat]

This is gonna definitely help me. I just got a VT500, I'm 6'2" so Forwards are gonna be nice.

[Montana64]

Is proving to be quite task, with each grooling step well worth the work. Although every change seems to require another. My forward controls are another. The early models; mine an '85, were a much more upright ride, so when I bobbed it and went rigid it put my feet way out of place. So I am hoping to make some changes this winter. My hope is to use parts from a much newer model, however I am going to have to redo my pipes as well.My plan is for ground pounder style pipes; front cylinder will go over top of the cases intead of under and the rear cylinder will have to hairpin and come back out the right side of the bike. rotflmfao... Know what this means? Removing the factory fuel tank, (which is under my ass) as well as the thing that looks like a tank, replacing with a set of modified fat-bobs and moving the coolant overflowtank. Di I mention this was just a side job? The main project this winter is a 12.5" wideglide front end. Keep up the great work guys. Nothing against the Harley folks, hell my girl rides one. But let's show them all just what RICE can do for you...:jamming::jamming::jamming::jamming:

GO HARD OR BE SOFT!!! Mt.http://www.flickr.com/photos/72589361@N00/2368506015/in/set-72157604289187239/

[750SpiritRdr]

Is proving to be quite task, with each grooling step well worth the work. Although every change seems to require another. My forward controls are another. The early models; mine an '85, were a much more upright ride, so when I bobbed it and went rigid it put my feet way out of place. So I am hoping to make some changes this winter. My hope is to use parts from a much newer model, however I am going to have to redo my pipes as well.My plan is for ground pounder style pipes; front cylinder will go over top of the cases intead of under and the rear cylinder will have to hairpin and come back out the right side of the bike. rotflmfao... Know what this means? Removing the factory fuel tank, (which is under my ass) as well as the thing that looks like a tank, replacing with a set of modified fat-bobs and moving the coolant overflowtank. Di I mention this was just a side job? The main project this winter is a 12.5" wideglide front end. Keep up the great work guys. Nothing against the Harley folks, hell my girl rides one. But let's show them all just what RICE can do for you...:jamming::jamming::jamming::jamming:

GO HARD OR BE SOFT!!! Mt.http://www.flickr.com/photos/72589361@N00/2368506015/in/set-72157604289187239/

That's a good lookin' '85 !! Can't wait to see what you come up with next

[duke51]

This is what I did on my '84 700.

[Shadow Rat]

Mine are still in the development stage. one thing bugs me, to keep from rubbing my leg on the pipes I have to come off the frame about 4 inches or so.

[duke51]

The ones that I put on in the pix clear the pipes and I have no problem with heat or anything else.

[Shadow Rat]

how far do they come off before the pegs start?

[duke51]

about 3 inches

[shotgunred]

hey guys im Ryan. just joined earlier and have been reading your tips and tricks. im building a set for my 85 vt1100 but its all still in the fabrication stages. biggest problem is finding the shift and brake levers. especially the brake. any suggestions?

[Jarel60]

I just found this site. Was looking for a fix for my 85 shadows castration complex. The info is great and pics a bonus. Though I would have to get used to the feeling of having the boys yanked up the crack of my arse! Your fix is just what the doc ordered . THANKS MUCH!!!!!:thumbsup:

[gman48]

Love all the mods you've done, keep posting . I'm looking forward to switching my stock handle bars to Daytona bars, i think that makes a better look.

[krautstyle]

hey guys im Ryan. just joined earlier and have been reading your tips and tricks. im building a set for my 85 vt1100 but its all still in the fabrication stages. biggest problem is finding the shift and brake levers. especially the brake. any suggestions?


Keep plugging away so I can copy you ! :)
Take lots of pics & measurements.. theres NOTHING for us 1100'ers
I would gladly do any help I could...?

J.T

[jonclem]

I'm a "noob". Ok we've got that out of the way.
I ride a '93 Shadow VT1100C that I dearly love. I just put a set of Cobra 2" Drag pipes on this bike to get a bit louder in traffic. It worked. They sound great.
Now the problem: I also purchased (at a bargain price) a set of Jardine forward controls. They don't fit with the drag pipes. I had to buy a modified toggle arm assembly from Jardine in hopes that this would cure it. NOPE! The toggle arm still hits the pipes. I really didn't want to add spacers, and that's why I bought the modified arm. Guess I threw my money away there.
Any other suggestion besides the spacers? I tried moving the bottom pipe up as far as it would go, but that didn't work either.

[krautstyle]

I'm a "noob". Ok we've got that out of the way.
I ride a '93 Shadow VT1100C that I dearly love. I just put a set of Cobra 2" Drag pipes on this bike to get a bit louder in traffic. It worked. They sound great.
Now the problem: I also purchased (at a bargain price) a set of Jardine forward controls. They don't fit with the drag pipes. I had to buy a modified toggle arm assembly from Jardine in hopes that this would cure it. NOPE! The toggle arm still hits the pipes. I really didn't want to add spacers, and that's why I bought the modified arm. Guess I threw my money way there.
Any other suggestion besides the spacers? I tried moving the bottom pipe up as far as it would go, but that didn't work either.

Send them to me :) I'll make them work :D !!!!:thumbsup::drink:

[jonclem]

Send them to me :) I'll make them work :D !!!!:thumbsup::drink:
Nope. I'm keeping them. The spacers worked!

[rocnrol]

heres the forward controls i built. the bike originaly had running boards on it when i bought it. i also made and instaled the drag bars.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/rocnrol/IMG00214-20110628-0650.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/rocnrol/IMG00213-20110628-0650.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/rocnrol/IMG00212-20110628-0650.jpg

[jonclem]

Nice setup and good job on the fab. I would question the height of the brake pedal. Isn't that a stretch? Or are you like me with a set of oversized feet?

[rocnrol]

thanks jonclem. if you look at the geomatry of a stock set up, the brake pedel could have been placed a bit further back, but yeh, the bigger feet make it work out:thumbsup:

[jonclem]

thanks jonclem. if you look at the geomatry of a stock set up, the brake pedel could have been placed a bit further back, but yeh, the bigger feet make it work out:thumbsup:
That's what I thought. Yours look like they may let you stretch out a bit farther. My setup is stock Jardine. I like them but they look "canned". At least they shine. (see photos)

[BrockGrimes]

For a brake rod use a piece of tubing and run allthread all the way thru it and heim joints on the ends, once you make your bend the allthread will stay.
If your worried about rattles you can coat the allthread with silicone before sliding it thru the tubing, it'll keep rattles quiet and remain flexable. Oh use locktite on the heim joints!!

[stevebm29]

I made a set for my VT1100. Check out my pics.