Carb Troubleshooting & Adjustment Info

[Galager]

I started my bike up yesterday and as soon as I hit the starter, a loud pop like a gunshot went off. I can only assume this was a backfire. When I hit the starter again the bike started up like normal. It never did this before, is it normal or does it indicate a problem?

[dave101363]

First thing I would do is check your plugs and make sure that there good.
If they ain't the problem make sure your gas is good( that's probaly not it but you never know) if that don't work it sounds like the bike needs to be rejetted

[Galager]

First thing I would do is check your plugs and make sure that there good.
If they ain't the problem make sure your gas is good( that's probaly not it but you never know) if that don't work it sounds like the bike needs to be rejetted

I'll take a look at the plugs tonight.. The bike is stock except for the holesaw mod so I would imagine that rejetting is unnecessary. I did adjust the air/fuel mixture screws. I think they are out 3 turn each if I remember correctly. Is that too much? I'm at sea level.

[98 ShadowT]

When I was riding down the road usually at higher speeds and quickly decelerated I would often backfire. Also, when I would do a medium acceleration thru several speeds, my bike would hesitate at certain RPM's. Talked to bike mechanic about it. They told me that Carbs jets needed cleaning, about $350.00 worth. I decided to buy new plugs though one might be fouled and ran premimum in bike for atleast 5 fillups. Both have helped fix my problems. Now she gets up and goes. Plus you can get more MPG with better gas. Bike repair shops said better gas would not clean the carbs. But IT WORKED................
Good luck.

[AirportFF]

Read this concerning fuels http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=198&highlight=octane

Now Galager, quick question. do you get gas in NJ? If your getting it there just over the GWB in Ft Lee....stop. I've had nothing but problems with any fuel I bought around there.

Try getting some B-12 Chemtool at Autozone. The stuff is awesome. Nav turned me on to it about a month ago for Susan's bike. Worked great!!! Just DO NOT get any on the paint.

Keep us posted and make sure to read the above link before going to a higher octane

Clint

[AirportFF]

Never mind the link I see you had posted to it......

[98 ShadowT]

Now I will also try some B-12 Chemtool and burn 87 Oct. for a while. See how she purrs again with that. Did not know that I was wasting gas with higher oct. Honda Owner Manual recomends 87 regular Oct.. in our bikes...
Does the B-12 really help to clean out the Carbs. Open the jets up.


Thanks.

[navillustoo]

Now I will also try some B-12 Chemtool and burn 87 Oct. for a while. See how she purrs again with that. Did not know that I was wasting gas with higher oct. Honda Owner Manual recomends 87 regular Oct.. in our bikes...
Does the B-12 really help to clean out the Carbs. Open the jets up.


Thanks.

Yup! I like it better than Seafoam, it seems to be more potent. It should do the trick in a tank or two.

Brian

[navillustoo]

I started my bike up yesterday and as soon as I hit the starter, a loud pop like a gunshot went off. I can only assume this was a backfire. When I hit the starter again the bike started up like normal. It never did this before, is it normal or does it indicate a problem?

Galager,
My bike has done this on occasion as well, it's no big thing. What I believe causes it is some amount of unburned fuel is present inside the combustion chamber. When you first begin to crank the engine over, the exhaust valve is probably sitting open and the bang you hear is that fuel being ignited prematurely. There's nothing wrong with your plugs, they fired didn't they?


Brian

[navillustoo]

When I was riding down the road usually at higher speeds and quickly decelerated I would often backfire.

ShadowT,
This is what is referred to as "popping on deceleration". It is caused by a too lean idle circuit. You can eliminate the popping by richening up your idle circuit. You'll have to drill out the plugs covering up the idle mixture screws, so you can adjust the screws. Use a 5/32 drill. I like to leave the plugs in place and adjust the screws with a small screwdriver through the hole. The plug will keep the screw from backing all the way out, but still allow adjustment.
If the popping has subsided, it was probably a fuel flow problem that cured itself by running fresh fuel through the carbs.

Brian

[AirportFF]

Just so we're clear on it....in=lean out=rich? And at what increments would you recommend turning them? :happy:

[navillustoo]

Just so we're clear on it....in=lean out=rich? And at what increments would you recommend turning them? :happy:

Clint,
That is correct for most of the carbs on these Hondas, it does depend on the carbs though. Some carbs have been used that meter the air bleed rather than the fuel circuit, but that's another story.
I like to make 1/4 turn increments, so you don't end up with it richer than it needs to be. Most of the manuals recommend 1/2 turn increments, but with that you could end up 3/8 of a turn too rich. Not a big problem, but in a situation where you have to idle for a long period, like a traffic jam, you could foul your plugs. I'm a bit anal when it comes to A/F ratio, I like to get it as close as possible because at best, the carburetor just works in averages. In other words, at a certain throttle opening the A/F ratio may be perfect. Open or close that throttle an eighth of an inch and your mixture is not perfect anymore. Fuel injection is much more precise in the metering department.

Brian

[98 ShadowT]

Thanks for the information. One of the bike shops told me that the bike had sat tooo long and that the carbs needed cleaning out. One of the jets was partly plugged. I will listen more for the pop. If it continues, I will see about the carb adjustment. Also going to pick up some B-12 Chemtoll today and flush the system. I have been told that gas here in Portland should be at close to $3.00 a gallon for reg. by Memorial Day so I plan to have my bike on the road often... SICK FROM THESE GAS PRICES

[Mr.Sinister]

I feel your pain . I am on Vacation this week send me an email .

[Galager]

Galager,
My bike has done this on occasion as well, it's no big thing. What I believe causes it is some amount of unburned fuel is present inside the combustion chamber. When you first begin to crank the engine over, the exhaust valve is probably sitting open and the bang you hear is that fuel being ignited prematurely. There's nothing wrong with your plugs, they fired didn't they?


Brian

Yeah it ran fine after that. I haven't had any problems or hesitation. I'm sure it was just a one-off situation.

[HSGear]

Dude, I got a 1973 Ducati running with a simple carb cleaning and some fresh gas, so the nice reliable Honda should be fine. These things are damned near unkillable...

[M@Man]

I was reading through a few of these older threads, and this one caught my eye.
At the AutoZone where I work, we recommend and sell alot of "Lucas Fuel Treatment"
I've used the B-12 and have nothing bad to say about it, but I can tell you the Lucas is more potent than the B-12. It's just something I thought I'd share with all of you, either one will clean your fuel systems, I just wanted to let you know of another choice.

M@

[navillustoo]

I was reading through a few of these older threads, and this one caught my eye.
At the AutoZone where I work, we recommend and sell alot of "Lucas Fuel Treatment"
I've used the B-12 and have nothing bad to say about it, but I can tell you the Lucas is more potent than the B-12. It's just something I thought I'd share with all of you, either one will clean your fuel systems, I just wanted to let you know of another choice.

M@

M@
How do the prices compare?

Brian

[M@Man]

M@
How do the prices compare?

Brian

The Lucas is just a little more, unless you get the big $8 bottle that has enough in it for about 10 treatments, then it's ALOT less than any treatment on the market. Those 10 treatments are for 16-20 gallon tanks too.

M@

[HSGear]

First thing I'd check frankly is my exhaust seals. If your bike has been sitting a long time, or if it's been jostled, the crush gaskets under the head pipes may need to be re-torqued. They go to 17lbs/ft and then take the pilot screws out to about 3.5 turns. Adjust your idle circuit with the idle screw a bit to avoid the pops.

I seriously doubt jetting is an issue unless you've changed the pipes significantly, added a K+N filter, or modded the air intake.

Mike

[jonegar]

HSGear, I'd like to go into a little more detail on your post if I could. I've parked the Ram (ga$$)and bought a 96' Shadow 1100C and love it. Proud owner for three weeks now. Took bike to dealer and had 16k service done and on trip home in trailer, took a slow curve, a strap came off, and the bike fell hard to the right side resting on the rail of the trailer. Apart from feeling like I just ran over my son's dog, I was pissed. Did not do much damage but exhaust for forward cyclinder was pushed back a little enough to restrict rear brake. Bent bracket back out (1/4" or so) and licked my wounds. All seemed to be fine but I have considerably more popping on decceleration than before the service. I thought the sync of the carbs and the service might of had something to do with it but after reading your post I'm thinking I might have caused this from the fall.
According the service manual I have read through, if I remember, it said to not adjust the pilot screws, that they were factory set. Can you elaborate what might cause the popping? Is it an air leak that is fixed by re-torqueing the bolts that hold the pipes to the cycliner? I was almost sick when the bike dumped. Is the popping bad for the bike? Sorry for the long first post....

[AirportFF]

By bending the exhaust you may have created a leak. Either at the head or where the slip on connects to the pipe. That would cause the popping also.

[jonegar]

When I got home I checked the torque on the exhaust mount bolts and they were all not even set to 10 lbs so I tightened three of the four as close to 17 lbs as I could(one I could not reach, need a thin wall socket), and backed off the pilot screws about one full turn. Seemed to help some but still popping quite a bit in the lower gear range at full de-throttle. Should I go through the hassle of removing the exhaust and inspecting the seals or just continue to ride and learn to love the pop? I don't want to allow anything that will harm the engine over the long term. Wife is mad enough as it is.... can't let something go that might cost more in the long run....

[RustyJake]

For the couple of $$'s the crush gaskets cost, I'd pull the exhaust and replace them and then torque the exhaust down again. That will at least eliminate that as being a part of the problem (if it still exists after you are done)

[jonegar]

One last question, the exhaust on my bike is aftermarket and I'm not sure of the manufacturer. I've looked for anything which might indicate the brand and I suspect it may be under the covers. Any idea if the crush ring would be standard or, what came origianlly on the bike. I'd like to run by the dealer today and pick some up if I know they will fit properly. I guess the alternative is pull the exhaust and then take the rings in to see if there a match.... Any thoughts?

[RustyJake]

The rings would be at the exhaust port on the motor, so no matter what pipes you run, it's the crush gaskets for that model of bike.
A lot of times when you take the pipes off you'd think there was no gasket in there, but it's there......crushed and pressed in. Usually an awl or small pick you can get it out.

[jonegar]

Thanks for the info. I'll pick some up and swap them out this week end.

[jonegar]

Wanted to post an updated on my jiffy-popping everytime I let off the throttle. Pulled the forward exhaust (one that got bent) and replaced the crush ring ($6 from Honda) and put back together. Reset both pilot screws to 2 3/4 turns per Table 1 in the Clymer manual (I had backed them out to 3 1/2 to stop the pop), and took a ride. Sounds like it did when I first got it, no more popcorn and a richer sound. Thanks for the advice. Forums like these have proven very valuable to me.

[shadycreek]

Personally, I would pull the plugs, If one or more have dark soot on it, then it is either running rich or the plug is partially fouled. A fouled plug will fire late sometimes therefore causing it to fire while the exhaust valve is open with unburned fuel in the cylinder. A cold plug at start-up would show signs of wear soonest. A carb adjustment or at time a hotter plug may be all you need. I doubt that the carbs would have to be pulled. Good luck....

Mike in Waco, Tx. ( 95 vt1100c2 )

[Wild Coyote]

Okay, the bike runs fine at idle, no poping. But when I decel I'm getting popping. The gas is a a couple of months old and has stabil in it. The bike was running great when I put her up for the winter. I changed my set of burbs for another set of burbs over the winter, so I'm wondering, is it the shitty gas causing the popping on decel, or by changing the pipes did it change somehow? The pipes were very similar, I rejetted, and like I said, it was running great this fall before I put her away. What you all think? I want to get the gass out of the tank and get some fresh high octane in ther and let it run for awhile, but weather is not permitting at this time.

[RustyJake]

Make sure you have no cracked lines or anything. Also, check to make sure you don't have an airleak somewhere. Check your exhaust to make sure they are torqued still.
If that doesn't help. Get some clean gas in there, change your plugs. If that doesn't help you'll probably have to richen the idle circuit a bit till the popping goes.

[Wild Coyote]

How do you check for an airleak? I put new crush gaskets on when I switched pipes. I ran it in the bitter ass cold and didn't see any air leak then, just hot air out of the end of the pipes so I think I'm good there. What kind of cracked lines???

[Mr.Sinister]

Air leaks on your pipes you won't see...... Maby hear. You have Burbs and they are feckin loud.I think that it would be on the draw not the out take that they leaked. Cracked lines on your carb or welds in your intake? The rubber ones? Rubber cracks.

[RustyJake]

You can always check for leaks using something that smokes, just hold it and move it around the connection to the motor while it's running, you'll know if there's a leak.

[Wild Coyote]

I'll try that once it warms up, and some new gas.

[barthel]

now i have this same problem went out to look at my pipes and both top bolts on each pipe were loose were it connects to the motor to cold to ride to see if this helped. now is it ok to just tighten them up or do i haft to back the other ones out and tighten them together.

[1fast2liter]

i have a problem with jetting my bike. i bought a stage one cobra jet kit(thought it was dyno jet) and i also have a set of cobra fattie shotguns. and i bought a hypercharger...i need to know what jets to use. i have a 98 shadow vlx600 deluxe. some one on here told me to put the needle on the 4th clip from top or to clips down how ever you wanna look at it. and use a 142 main jet with a number above and below. but he said it was a dj142 a dyno jet kit. will dynojets work with a cobra kit. and will this setup work on a dual carb????i don't think he realized i had a 98. any help would be apriciated. Oh i had my bike out yesturday for about 10 minutes charged the batterie and she fired right off ran real good to.

[Wild Coyote]

Well, Sin, RJ, got to the bottom of my popping pipes. Turns out the damn pipes were loose. I had a bad mount the first time. I have two coats of ceramic on these babies, so, I pulled them off, sanded the ends to get some of the ceramic coat off, remounted with new crush gaskets, and torqued the hell out of them nuts! Now I have a nice good seal, no leaks and wouldn't you know it, no popping on decel anymore. Thank god, I didn't want to have to mess with the mixture screws!!

[miclash1]

bike for sale
:thumbsup: FOR SALE

hey everyone! i have a 2004 honda shadw aero 750 for sale. i just bought it this march, and i am already for a bigger bike... check it out in my gallery, but i have alot more pictures upon requst.... the bike only has 4,500 miles on it and is in great condition..

cobra drag pipe
cordin stinger seat
straight drag bars
billet forward controls
kury accent lights through out engine
new battery

please email me or call me if your interested or you know anyone else that is interested...

miclash1@worldnet.att.net

i give me # out when i am e-mailed

[RAZOR]

bike for sale
:thumbsup: FOR SALE

hey everyone! i have a 2004 honda shadw aero 750 for sale. i just bought it this march, and i am already for a bigger bike... check it out in my gallery, but i have alot more pictures upon requst.... the bike only has 4,500 miles on it and is in great condition..

cobra drag pipe
cordin stinger seat
straight drag bars
billet forward controls
kury accent lights through out engine
new battery

please email me or call me if your interested or you know anyone else that is interested...

miclash1@worldnet.att.net

i give me # out when i am e-mailed


I wonder where i could find a bike to buy---

UUUUUMMMMM MAYBE IN THE FUCKING FOR SALE SECTION.!!!!!
ITS TAKE A FUCKING GENIOUS TO FUGURE THAT ONE OUT.

[engine165]

hey guys, so i was fixing the popping during decel this weekend and found out that the primaries were only at 2 turns out from the factory instead of the 2.5 standard. guess that could be the source of my lean issue......

[jajara]

hey guys me again, i have a problem, my bike was sitting for six weeks, when i got back it went on with no problem, batterie was good, everything was fine, but, last night i got some trouble, it looked like gas is not comming into carb, the fucking bike went off in the middle of the street, i know, i check the gas level, it was ok, i put it in reserve nothing, then i pull the choke and i got it on, if you understand, can someone tell me what could be a problem?

[RAZOR]

hey guys me again, i have a problem, my bike was sitting for six weeks, when i got back it went on with no problem, batterie was good, everything was fine, but, last night i got some trouble, it looked like gas is not comming into carb, the fucking bike went off in the middle of the street, i know, i check the gas level, it was ok, i put it in reserve nothing, then i pull the choke and i got it on, if you understand, can someone tell me what could be a problem?

drain the gas outta the tank. and since you got the tank off and the carbs are
well just right there... pull those off and drain the fuel outta those as well..
put new gas in I would add some additive like seafoam get it started and run
that sumbitch down the highway...
chances are the fuel was just sitting too long.

[quam]

chances are that razor's 100% right, but before you do that, i would try just tearing the shit out of the street a couple times. you might just need to blow out some old gunk outta the heads and carbs.
just rag the fuck outta the bike a couple times and see if that clears her up.....

[RAZOR]

chances are that razor's 100% right, but before you do that, i would try just tearing the shit out of the street a couple times. you might just need to blow out some old gunk outta the heads and carbs.
just rag the fuck outta the bike a couple times and see if that clears her up.....

yeah thats what i would have done first..

[tonefight]

OK Guys, I've been pissin with the jetting off and on for about a month now. The bike isn't too bad but still needs some adjustment.

Bike info : Cobra drags, K&N, Khrome werks baffles, needle on the 3rd clip, cobra 106 & 104 jetts, mix screws @ 3 1/4 and 3

After jetting the bike it didn't run horrible but it just didn't have no shit to it. so :
1. I've tried using the stock filter, didn't help.
2. I taped half of the inside part of the snorkle off and it really ran like shit
3. I took the snorkle off and noticed a midrange gain but weak and stutters WOT
4. synced carbs again, no difference
5. lubed up choke cable it was a little sticky, noticed a little better mid range same WOT
6. Reinstalled snorkle, definatly worse midrange, weak but not stuttering WOT

So after all this I'm thinking I could either run the snorkle and raise the needle to the 2nd clip .....or....... install larger mains for the WOT problem. any thoughts ?

I have 2 questions, what are the cobra 104 and 106 jetts equal to in dynojet sizes? and what size mains are recomended for the snorkle only mod ?

Thanks

[tonefight]

Ok, I found the recomended sizes for the snorkle only mod 124 &128, I'll see if I can get those and try em, anyone have any ideas on my situation?

[quam]

don't know how the mains translate from dynojet, but if the k&n and pipes aren't enough juice for you, i'd DEF recommend the bean box mod. it'd cost you less than $10 to do it.
just gotta order the 134/138 mains from dynojet and cut the box. that would probably even out your flat spots too.
or you could do what you said about leaving in the snorkel and moving the needles to the 2nd notch.
remember to synch after doing whatever you decide to do!

[tonefight]

Alright, I think I got to the final chapter of this saga !!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

I went to the local shop today, they had a 120 and a 122.5 so I ripped the bike apart again stuck the 120 front and the 122.5 in the rear, took the snorkle back out and took her for a ride. I had good response all the way through, WOT was nice and strong again no sputtering or missing, i only got about a 20 min ride in but I think I'm gonna be able to call this done. Also I readjusted the pilots to 3 1/2 rear and 3 1/4 front and the idle seems to be better.

The final set up is :

Cobra 2" drags
Khrome Werks baffles
rejetted with 122.5 rear and 120 front main jets
needle on the 3rd clip
K&N filter
Desnorkled air box ( not bean boxed just desnorkled )
Pilots screws @ 3 1/2 rear and 3 1/4 front

That was about a month worth of pissin with it so I was happy to take it out and have it run good all the way through.

[quam]

cool man, you pretty high up altitude wise?

[tonefight]

I think we average in the 2000 ft range, Highest point close is around 3000, not sure if that is considered high or not ?

Does my setup seem a little odd ? I know its not really the norm but its running better than it has since I first installed the pipes.

[tonefight]

Got my fuel mileage back too. I was running around 55mpg before I started with the pipes and the jetting. After I initially installed the jet kit I was down to about 35mpg. I checked today and it was 54mpg again so I'm happy with that.

[coppertop]

i just drilled my caps off of my idel screws and checked my adjustments on mine and the back cyslinder was only turned out a half of turn the front was 2 and a half it ran ok but i turned both to 3 and a quarter turns and damb it runs great now, like a new bike cant wait to see what fuel milage i'm getting I know fuck off noob.

[coondude]

I'm just a dam noob, so feel free to heap abuse. According to a friend who's a marine mechanic, gasoline goes bad much, much faster these days than it did in the "old days". When I have "aged" gas, even a few weeks, and even with Sta-bil in it, it's hard to start the bike, it backfires when starting, it will stall on idle unless it's at about half choke, and it runs very hot. This is an 85 VT700.

Coondude

[sam77757]

hey guys, got a few questions here maybe someone will be able to help me with!!! first of all i am glad to have found this site. second i have a 95 vt1100c2 Ace that spits and sputter and falls on its face at half throttle. it has new cobra drag pipes (no baffels) and a stage 1 jet kit carbs were cleaned and tunned last year around may and the bike has set since . i recently purchased the bike and im trying to get it going for the summer when the bike is at idle you can throttle up and it will blow black smoke and what seems like fuel out of the front cylinder for just a second then quits! any ideas on my problem? and once again thanks for any info!!

[bsa_bob]

i HAVE A MANUAL, BUT NOT TO UP ON IT YET!CAN THE CARBS BE ADJUSTED WHILE ON THE BIKE? not yelling,key stuck. 2003 shadow
bob s any help i'm grateful/.:anxious:

[billace]

which adjustments are you talking about and is it on your ace? I do not know if it makes a difference which model either since I only have an ace.

[bsa_bob]

billace hey how ya doin? I mean , the gas and air mixture. i found the idle screw, of course who wouldn't it hang right out there .....and easy to get at! 2003 ace
thaks for thereply billace.
bob s

[mcvierh]

Bob, you have to and I stress have to adjust the mixture screw(s) while the carb(s) are on the bike as the bike has to be running in order for you adjust the screw(s)....determine exactly where your mixture screws are and if they've never been adjusted then you'll have to remove the "cap"...drill a tiny hole into the center of the cap being very careful not to let the drill bit go into the cap no more than 1/8 of an inch as the screws are less than 3/8's in, use a small screw and turn it into the hole you just drilled, screw it in just enough for it to get a bite on the cap then grab the screw with a pair of pliers and pull, the cap will come out attached to the screw, save it (the cap) so after you've adjusted you can reinstall it. now your ready to adjust......in for lean, out for rich....it's all in the ear, I listen for the engine to to stumble on the cylinder I'm adjusting as I turn the screw in, next I turn the screw out till the RPM begins to increase to max then back in, counting as I go till it stumbles again, then back out till I'm at around half of the turns between stumble and where it maxed out at RPM. I do both cylinders on a dual carb set up that way and every things ready for a test run....I decel hard and if any decel pop I turn that cylinder out about an 1/8 turn at a time till the decel pop goes away....to easy. Now your turn.

[mcvierh]

I have to add Bob that the bike needs to be running at an idle of aprox. 1100 rpm when you adjust your mixture screws....then once your finished you can set the idle to suit you.....me I prefer my idle at around 900rpm, I just like the lope it has at that idle instead if the recommended 1200 that honda says I should set it at...., fuck honda, what do they know about bean box mods and a 42 slow jet in the idle circuit anyway.....?

[billace]

Bob I have to agree with what Mcvierh posted. If you are unsure of where to look on the carbs the sa750 website has some good pictures under jetting and mixture screw adjustment. I would think if you searched for that on here you would likely finde similar pics.

[bsa_bob]

hey mc..............thank you for the info, i pretty much know what to do , but i can't seem to locate them . Are they on the outside surface [the side showing] or are they one of those things that you have to bend a screwedriver all over the place to get at them. I mean in behind the cylinders somewhere.?? and i'm glad you gave me the deails on the specs
bob s

[mcvierh]

on the outside, right behind the throttle drum cover on left as your sitting on bike and on the outside right behind the breather cover, you have to remove the breather cover to access the right side and throttle drum cover to access left....

[bsa_bob]

mcvierh---------------Thank you again my friend, i now know about carb adjustments,i'm still learning on cars and bikes everyday.have a good saturday and a great sunday
bob s:thumbsup:

[bsa_bob]

Yeah billace-------------i'm headed over to sa750 right now and take a look. HEY .......i've noticed that not to much is ever goin on on that forum, or am i just looking in the wrong places.:happy: bob s



well i just got back from sa750 billace. i found it........................... again i apprecate any help.

[fastssmonte]

my 02 backfires once in a while when starting it also at highway speeds on decelleration.seems to be normal due to low emmision lean burning factory jetting.normal to me but aggravating...

[mcvierh]

thats not normal, thats to lean a mixture you've got going on there.....if you've never set your mixture screws know that the factory setting is way off, i.e. they haven't a clue what your elevation is so no way of knowing what the mix could be, some have found that when they count backwards to closed that one might be 1/2 a count out while the other is 3 counts out....not good.......

[bsa_bob]

mc -----------quik question.If the factory settigs are so far off and mine still pops back a bit on de-celleration,why would the bike run and perform so good, which mine does


bob s:stunned:

[mcvierh]

Boob quick answer, fuck off.

[bsa_bob]

Are you always this quick.to bite someones head off. I just ask a question on something, that you seemed to be well in
formed about





Everybody seems to be a ticking time bomb around here!. what sa matter MC

if your p.o. you could tell me what for?

[bsa_bob]

Are you always this quick.to bite someones head off! I just ask a question ...on something, that you seemed to be well versed, about!!





Everybody seems to be a" ticking time bomb around here"!. what sa matter MC
if your po about something you could tell me what for?

[Beaker]

:grenade: :grenade: :grenade:

[Beaker]

:thumbsup: Just wanted to throw a thanks out to McVierh. The man went out of his way to answer a ton of pm's to help me get the a/f mix set right on my carbs for my new pipes. All the info that he posted in this thread, and others, was also very helpful (ie. how to save the plugs that hold the screws in place rather than wrecking them and having to load the holes with silicone). Yesterday he gave me a good slap upside the head for not replacing my stock air cleaner with a K&N. I picked one up this a.m., installed it, and went for a nice long ride. Wow! If you haven't put one in your airbox, do it! World of difference.
Thanks again McVierh!!!!!

[mcvierh]

My pleasure Beaker.

[Boris]

Just picked up a 96 VT1100 that has been sitting for 2 years.
Cleaned the tank, fuel filter, drained the bowls (all was nice and clean) and tried to run seafoam through the motor. The thing still doesn't want to idle, it's as if there was no idle circuit at all. I have to start it with full choke and as soon as it barks turn off the choke and grab a hand full of throttle. Once it's running it pops like mad and the rear cylinder is lean as hell.

I want to screw around with the mixture screws but have no idea where to find them. Anyone have a link to a diagram of the carbs ?
Also, what is "sa750" ? Apparently there are some pictures there.

Sorry for the noob questions. I really want to ride but don't want to fatten the local stealers pockets by having him work on my new pride and joy.

[Boris]

OK, I found out what "sa750" is and checked out the pictures.
Guess I was on the right track when I started messing with the idle (pilot jets) screws earlier today. They were set at 3 1/2 turn out so that should be close but the bike still doesn't idle.

Other than the idle speed and pilot jets, any other external adjustments that I can do to these carbs ?

When should the fuel pump come on ?

[iNDy]

Yet another noob.:furious2:

I inherited a 2003 VLX from my father. It runs great, except when trying to sustain speeds of around 55+ mph. I can accelerate above and beyond that with no issues, just can't cruise at anything higher that 52 or 53. It has Cobra pipes on it. I am not sure if it has been rejetted or not. It did sit for a few months, but I have already put a few tanks worth through it with seafoam. I've changed the plugs and exhaust gaskets as well. Also given it hell quite a bit to try to clear gunk out.

Is there a way to tell if it has been rejetted? Does it really need to be rejetted? I want to tear in to it soon if need be, so any help would be appreciated. I don't want to buy the jets if not necessary, but I don't want to really tear into it without having them if I need them.

Any other ideas?

[tiler]

I have a problem with my spirit 1000, in the cooler weather the starter wont crank but only sometimes. it doesnt matter if I rode the bike yesterday or a week ago (dosent sit that long to often) the battery is only 6 months old. any ideas

[firefighter212]

When you say won`t crank,do you mean wont start or starter won`t turn it over?

[tiler]

it turns over but real slow like a dead battery. after a couple of tries the battery goes dead. I will upload some pics. of my nonexisting 1100, what ya expect from a noob

[blindpig]

my new pipes are due in this week and the guy said i should just be able to pop take the old ones off and pop the new ones on. i asked about jetting and he said all i had to do is maybe tweek the mixing screws. i have an 06 shadow sprit. can someone tell me where these screws are and some pointers .... thank you

[tiler]

as I understand it you have to rejet because of the lack of pressure in the new pipes. but you should be able to find the mixture screws on the side of the carbs
beneath a plug that you will have to pry out. good luck:biker:

[ddcross88]

Quick question sorry to interupt.I just got a 97 shadow vlx vt600cd,1900 miles,so i know it sat alot,it wouldn't run and first without shaking it back and forth,so i cleaned the carbes,it would run but bogg bad when you gave it gas,so i cleaned them agin,runs alot better it boggs when your about 1/4 throttle and when you give it a quick snap it'll rev up like it is soposed to and drop back down. it's when you accel slowly that it boggs,I'm puzzled. when i ride it i can rev it up and take off but when i eas the throttle it will bogg and buck then go. can anyone help me,and agean i'm sorry for the interuption.

[ericesch]

Very informative thread. My 95 vt600cd does the exact same thing. Popping on deceleration (which I actually think sounds pretty cool) and bogs and misses on acceleration under certain load conditions. I know it's not a fix but if I run her slightly choked the problem goes away. I've only had it a week but I'm going to go ahead and pull the carbs and get a rebuild kit and try it myself. Any advice on rebuilding these carbs?

[Tweek1984]

i had the same exact issue with my bike...left it sitting for like 6 months and couldn't keep it running...i eventually cleaned out all my jets and my carb and now shes running...just need to do some adjustments now

[American Shadow in IRL]

Hey everyone!
Great Site :happy:

I've just found this site and the information has been great thanks!
It's prety hard to get good info on the Shadow over here (Ireland) not too many of the older ones around as they were never sold here.
I bought my 1993 1100 Shadow back in October. I am planning on doing some work to it over the next few weeks. Will post pics later :happy:

I saw the holesaw mod and did it straight away!
One thing is the bike is popping on decel now. I tried to adjust the F/A mixture but the previous owner seems to have worn the head off the screw :huh:

Does this mean i have to take the carbs apart to replace it?

Thanks for everything!

[fearjar]

Hey everyone!
Great Site :happy:

I've just found this site and the information has been great thanks!
It's prety hard to get good info on the Shadow over here (Ireland) not too many of the older ones around as they were never sold here.
I bought my 1993 1100 Shadow back in October. I am planning on doing some work to it over the next few weeks. Will post pics later :happy:

I saw the holesaw mod and did it straight away!
One thing is the bike is popping on decel now. I tried to adjust the F/A mixture but the previous owner seems to have worn the head off the screw :huh:

Does this mean i have to take the carbs apart to replace it?

Thanks for everything!

I would hope you can get some pliers on it and back it out and put a new one in. He shouldn't have played with it enough to "wear it off", I hope he didn't overtighten it, may have just drilled into it removing the covers. Good luck with it, show some pics. Use photobucket and insert the url for the image to post a big pic on the site so we can see what you are looking at. Here is a link to a site with great schematics http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...shadow/o/m2811 (http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1993-honda-motorcycle-vt1100c-shadow/o/m2811)

[firefighter212]

He maybe looking at the cap on top of the screw.If not,It doesnt take much to turn the screws and hard to believe he wore it out.

[American Shadow in IRL]

Hey everyone thanks for the help i will try and post some pictures tommorow.

Just to clarify the caps are removed i am looking at the actual screw and half of it is missing if that makes any sense.

Thanks again!!

[2003 Red spirit 750]

Hey everyone!
Great Site :happy:

I've just found this site and the information has been great thanks!
It's prety hard to get good info on the Shadow over here (Ireland) not too many of the older ones around as they were never sold here.
I bought my 1993 1100 Shadow back in October. I am planning on doing some work to it over the next few weeks. Will post pics later :happy:

I saw the holesaw mod and did it straight away!
One thing is the bike is popping on decel now. I tried to adjust the F/A mixture but the previous owner seems to have worn the head off the screw :huh:

Does this mean i have to take the carbs apart to replace it?

Thanks for everything!

When I first saw your name there I was thinking it was the Indy Racing League. Maybe it's because I'm a Hoosier.lol. Welcome fellow Irish Noob.

[bigpapawack]

i had the same problem

[gbohlken]

Noob post. Go ahead - lemme have it!

Just wanna say thanks - this board walked me through pulling, cleaning, and reinstalling my carbs. Now my 1999 Aero 1100 rides better than ever. I would never have tackled such an undertaking without the knowledge and help of reading this board. Thanks!

[shadowrun]

Good first post noob.Youve shown that searching,reading this forum works!Great would be,pics in you gallery.No pics no bike!Now fuckoffyouforumreadingnobikehavingnoob!Welcome aboard.

[gbohlken]

Thanks, Shadowrun. I've added a few pics, will post better if/when the Boise sun shines again.

Before I did the carb work, I had to run with 1/2 choke all the time, even after warmed up. Now I rarely use the choke, even to start the bike. I've got a DynoJet stage 1 kit on order, so hoping for even better after DynoJet rebuild later this fall. For now I gotta figure out the decel popping/backfiring - I've been reading these message boards and have some ideas of what to look for beyond carbs. Cleaning the carbs significantly reduced the popping so I'm thinking next I'll look for a loose seal where the exhaust pipes meet the engine. These boards are great. On my first bike - a 98 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 - I was so timid that the most I ever did was change spark plugs, spray chain lube, and drain carb sediment bowls and I paid a mechanic to change my oil. Now on my Aero 1100 I'm doing it all myself. Thanks!

BTW - on my carb cleaning, I did not build/use the manometer to sync.. just used the adjustment screw to visually get the throttle plates at a similar spot and it's working decently enough for now. I think just cleaning the carbs and new NKG spark plugs (non-Iridium, just the $2.50 regular ones) brought the bike above 90%. New DynoJet install and official manometer sync should get me better-than-new 110%, I'm thinking.

[shadowrun]

Does the bike have aftermarket pipes,or intake?Sounds like you might be lean(popping backfiring)jmo

[gbohlken]

Thanks, Shadowrun. I think it's all factory-stock intake and exhaust. You're probably right about adjusting the air/fuel mix screws. I didn't do the adjustment when I had the carbs out, but the Honda shop manual says that if you're above 2000ft altitude, it'll need a change (Boise is approx 2500ft). So you're saying probably needs richer / more fuel in mix, right?

[shadowrun]

Yup.Prob get it with a/f screws.jmo

[gbohlken]

Thanks. My neighbor who rides sport bikes semi-pro says, "If it doesn't leak or you can't tinker on it, it's not a hobby." I guess my Aero 1100 is my new hobby. I'll get to the a/f mixture screws this weekend.

Interesting experience yesterday- first time driving in town, not open-road... temperature guage light kept coming on after sitting at red lights, but would turn off within 10 seconds of driving again -- and it was 65 degrees, raining in Boise. Fan behind front wheel never came on. I found this discussion topic: http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15056&highlight=cooling and this: http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14129&highlight=cooling and it looks like I've got a few options to play with. A/F mixture screw is one possibility, but no fan probably means multiple things to tinker with. I'll move over to that board now and see what I can figure out...

Thanks again for all the carb help. DynoJet kit will be installed by end of June!

[NinjaSpirit]

Hi all, Noob here. I bought a 2002 Spirit with 3144 miles on it and it has a set of Vance & Hines Pipes on it. My question is do the jets need to be replaced when the exhaust is changed? I asked the owner and he said no the shop just pit the pipes on and she was good to go. But I am asking cuz it pops alot on de-acceleration.

[gbohlken]

From what I've picked up on these boards, NinjaSpirit, jets don't need to be replaced when new pipes, but the carbs air/fuel mixture should probably be reset -- new pipes change the rate of air flow, therefore the amount of air in the air/fuel mix.

I've got the deceleration popping too. From what I've read on the boards, our pipes pop on decel because there's still fuel in the combustion cycle that didn't get burned in the engine cylinder. When that combustion cycle makes it's way to the exhaust, the fuel enters the hot pipes and has an explosion that burns up the rest of the fuel.

Possible contributing factors, from what I've read on these boards:
- change air/fuel mixture
- re-sync carbs
- replace (or tighten) seals where pipes connect to engine
- don't go with higher octane fuel than what manual calls for (probably calls for 87)- octane just increases the temp at which fuel burns, so higher octane might be leaving more fuel unburnt
- um, maybe others, but not that I can remember at this point

[NinjaSpirit]

Ah the previous owner did tell me to always run Premium fuel, and I have noticed less popping when I use a lower octane. (against his recommendation) Thanks.

[Shadow Bagger]

i have a 2000 ace 750 i re-jetted to #3s put on cobra drag pipes and pulled out the baffels and i pop lile crazy on down shift and decell and have problems getting her past 90 mph and she struggles any suggestions

[hellfish]

ShadowT,
This is what is referred to as "popping on deceleration". It is caused by a too lean idle circuit. You can eliminate the popping by richening up your idle circuit. You'll have to drill out the plugs covering up the idle mixture screws, so you can adjust the screws. Use a 5/32 drill. I like to leave the plugs in place and adjust the screws with a small screwdriver through the hole. The plug will keep the screw from backing all the way out, but still allow adjustment.
If the popping has subsided, it was probably a fuel flow problem that cured itself by running fresh fuel through the carbs.

Brian

This is the exact problem I'm having "popping on deceleration" and I now know it's running lean, I pulled the choke out a little while riding and the popping stopped, but being the noob that I am I dont know how to do what your suggesting, for starters I dont even know where the plug is to even drill the hole, a couple of pics or a more detailed description on this would be greatly appreciated.

[raynorbrad]

i know this aint the right place but does anyone know why forward controls for a chain drive 750 wont fit on my shaft drive 750

[Shadowbreeze]

im new to the webside i have had my 750 since 2002 . i recently just did some modifications since some one at work hit the bike and draged it for 2 feet,, anyway the mod are K&N filter and new vance hinse straight shoots,. i also have found out the my bike is poping on deceleration, i have read thru out the thread all i need is to back the idle mixture, ialso bought a jet kit from dyno jet stage 1 my question is, do i need to install the jet kit or can ui just adjust the misture with out the jet kit and still keep my 50 mpg, any help to this noob will be greatly apreciated

[JayT]

1st, off, Fuck off!

2nd, yes! by adjusting A/F screws you can lose the pop on decel.

3rd, with pipes and K&N you dont necessarily have to jet, but you would get your throttle response back and have a power increase.

4th, gas mileage? wtf? really? who gives a shit! If gas is such a concern go getcha a prius. I look at it like this, I get better gas milage than my Lincoln navigator so fuck it!

5th, Theres an intro thread , use it! Post a pic, say hi, yada yada...

6th, fuck off & welcome.

[CrimsonReign]

woof!

[Shadowbreeze]

thanks im having problems posting pictures but i will soon as i get the work on the bike completed

[thekidd1220]

Great post, has helped me with getting my 01 spirit back into running condition... My 01 was running lean so I decided to adjust the pilot screws (it had only been ridden a few times in the last 4 years when i bought it a month ago). I ran some carb cleaner through it first, seem to be running good, but there was some popping on decel and the plugs were a little light. Anyways I pulled everything off I needed to for the adjustment, started her up and proceeded to adjust the pilot screw as prescribed earlier in the thread, got it all dialed in and throttled the motor up, it sputtered and wanted to die, so I tinkered with it some more, every time it sounded good at idle but when Id rev it it would sound like shit. I pulled the plugs multiple times and they kept getting whiter. So I end up convincing myself that I've broken off the tip of the pilot screw in the carb, and pulled both pilot screws only to find out that everything was ok... in the process I destroyed one of the *#(@) o-rings. So I proceeded to drink a few beers and have a staring contest with the piece-o-shit for about an hour. When it finally hits me that I haven't put the airfilter back on through this whole adjustment process. I dialed everything back in and put on the air filter, runs pretty good, but as I said earlier I already dicked up the o-ring on the pilot screw, so I'm waiting for a new one of those cause my front cylinder is alittle lean still.
So I guess this post is a question and lesson, should the engine be able to rev reliably without the air filter on while doing this adjustment? If not then I guess this is something for the Noobs on here to realize. thanks

[CrimsonReign]

Great post, has helped me with getting my 01 spirit back into running condition... My 01 was running lean so I decided to adjust the pilot screws (it had only been ridden a few times in the last 4 years when i bought it a month ago). I ran some carb cleaner through it first, seem to be running good, but there was some popping on decel and the plugs were a little light. Anyways I pulled everything off I needed to for the adjustment, started her up and proceeded to adjust the pilot screw as prescribed earlier in the thread, got it all dialed in and throttled the motor up, it sputtered and wanted to die, so I tinkered with it some more, every time it sounded good at idle but when Id rev it it would sound like shit. I pulled the plugs multiple times and they kept getting whiter. So I end up convincing myself that I've broken off the tip of the pilot screw in the carb, and pulled both pilot screws only to find out that everything was ok... in the process I destroyed one of the *#(@) o-rings. So I proceeded to drink a few beers and have a staring contest with the piece-o-shit for about an hour. When it finally hits me that I haven't put the airfilter back on through this whole adjustment process. I dialed everything back in and put on the air filter, runs pretty good, but as I said earlier I already dicked up the o-ring on the pilot screw, so I'm waiting for a new one of those cause my front cylinder is alittle lean still. ]

So I guess this post is a question and lesson, should the engine be able to rev reliably without the air filter on while doing this adjustment? If not then I guess this is something for the Noobs on here to realize.

----:::kidd fix your shit:::----

[thekidd1220]

cut and pasted it from word, didn't try and get so fancy as to use colors.
won't happen again

[Frogman172]

Another thing, if you pull off your pipes, you may want to replace your crush washers. This will cause a pop on decel. Air is gettin in and Pop.

[thekidd1220]

thanks for the advice, I don't think these are the problem, I did put a torque wrench on them about a month ago and made sure they were torqued to spec, no change in the popping on decel. Plus my plugs are lean and I'm pretty sure the leaky exhaust wouldn't effect them this much.
thanks
thekidd

[cutterlee]

i just got my first bike a 2003 spirit, and sat, went for a short 45mile trip, then today as i was in town doing around 45mph it started to pop a little and lose power on the throttle then died , got it started drove a few blocks then died again ,,, got it started drove the short distence home with no more problems ,, is it the choke that is doing it cause i pull it out all the way fire it up then puss in alittle to a slow idle and after a mile or two i pish it all the way in and when it died i had to pull it all the way out again to get it started but it should have been warmed up???

[CrimsonReign]

i just got my first bike a 2003 spirit, and sat, went for a short 45mile trip, then today as i was in town doing around 45mph it started to pop a little and lose power on the throttle then died , got it started drove a few blocks then died again ,,, got it started drove the short distence home with no more problems ,, is it the choke that is doing it cause i pull it out all the way fire it up then puss in alittle to a slow idle and after a mile or two i pish it all the way in and when it died i had to pull it all the way out again to get it started but it should have been warmed up???
HAHAHA NOOB SAID PUSS HAHAHAHA

[cutterlee]

HAHAHA NOOB SAID PUSS HAHAHAHA ya ya i cant type:drink: :fall

[spirit rider06]

Me too whats up

[USAF Shadow Rider]

Quick question. My '07 Shadow Spirit was sitting in the garage for a little over a year due to other things going on in life. Anyway, i just recently charged the battery, changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, checked the air filter, put fresh gas in the tank and checked all the bolts for proper tightness. The problem I am having is that she hesitates a little with the throttle opened up just a little in all gears and pops when I let of the gas with the clutch out. My question is: Should I try to adjust the fuel/air ratio or just pull the carbs and clean them?

[mcvierh]

After sitting a year, unless your bike got shut down with the fuel turned off and it died when the bowls got empty, I'd say pull them carbs and clean the varnished fuel from the ports, jets, towers, float chamber, float valve and seat......

[USAF Shadow Rider]

After sitting a year, unless your bike got shut down with the fuel turned off and it died when the bowls got empty, I'd say pull them carbs and clean the varnished fuel from the ports, jets, towers, float chamber, float valve and seat......

Thanks for the advice, I pulled the carbs this past weekend, cleaned 'em out (even though they weren't that gummed up) and then adjusted the pilot screws and she runs like new now.

USAF Shadow Rider

[MAC85]

i know this aint the right place but does anyone know why forward controls for a chain drive 750 wont fit on my shaft drive 750


I see you have not been on here in awhile, but the answer to your question is no. They are two different setups is the best way to say it. I don't know if you have bought some yet, but I just ordered some from scootmods and I should get them next week. Mine is a chain drive.:thumbsup:

[jonclem]

I also now have the popping which is probably related to the crush rings, but will this air leak/popping also cause a decrease in gas mileage? Since I've changed pipes and rejetted my gas mileage has gone in the crapper. From over 40mpg to almost half of that. WTF?

[shadowridr]

Hey cutterlee, your mixture is too lean (not enough gas) barring any modifications on your intake, it's likely that you may need to run some carb cleaner fuel treatment through it for a few tanks to get the jets opened up, if that doesn't work, then take the carbs off, clean the jets inside the bowl with carb cleaner, blow them out and reset them, both main jet and slow jet will need cleaning, likely. See attached PDF for cleaning carbs.

[rebel04343]

i got a 2006 honda shadow spirit 750 chain drive i kinda know my way around mechanical stuff but i am just not sure what size jets to put in it i got brand new OOMPS pipes no baffles and a brand new custom made open face air filter kinda like a thunder man. one. can anyone help?

[ITC(EXW)]

i got a 2006 honda shadow spirit 750 chain drive i kinda know my way around mechanical stuff but i am just not sure what size jets to put in it i got brand new OOMPS pipes no baffles and a brand new custom made open face air filter kinda like a thunder man. one. can anyone help?

Seriously there Nooboid, some men you just can't reach, which is how he wants it...

One word:

G O O G L E

Here's another tip - your jet kit will come with instructions.

And another - there are about 20 or 30 really informative threads on this topic already out there, all your answers and questions and worries that are keeping you up at night answered. There's a wealth of knowledge here and a lot of guys that more than willing to help those WHO WILL AT LEAST TRY TO HELP THEMSELVES FIRST.

Use the intro thread to introduce yourself, and post some pictures of your bike.

:pics_or_s

Now FUCK OFF NOOBWITHNOPICTURESANDTHECUSTOMINTAKE!

Welcome to the nuthouse.

[shadowridr]

In the world of hi-tech gadgetry, I've noticed that more and
more people who send text messages and emails have long
forgotten the "art" of capitalization.

Those of you who fall into this world, please take note of the
statement below. I cannot stress enough how grammar is very
important to it.

"Capitalization is the difference between helping your Uncle Jack
off a horse and helping your uncle jack off a horse."

Is everybody clear on that?

[jonclem]

No matter what the instructions say I'd recommend you go to the website of the manufacturer and see if there are any updates to the installation. I just got finished with a re-jet job on my '93 VT1100C. Afterward it was burning 1/3 to 1/2 more gas than it did before :no:. Come to find out the install was wrong on the instruction :madani: sheet. Check it out and save yourself some headaches and $$$$.

[nitro1969]

ok help i got a 1997 honda shadow spirit 1100, and it only has 4000 on it and it is having some probs and was woundering if some one might help? it feels like it is only running on 3 cylinders and when running done the road. it feels like it is chuggin and it just dont feel right . was stored in side with stable in gas. any ideas new gas plugs oil bat and still does it . any advice?

[mcvierh]

ok help i got a 1997 honda shadow spirit 1100, and it only has 4000 on it and it is having some probs and was woundering if some one might help? it feels like it is only running on 3 cylinders and when running done the road. it feels like it is chuggin and it just dont feel right . was stored in side with stable in gas. any ideas new gas plugs oil bat and still does it . any advice?

You've got a '97 1100 Noob. well guess what? Thats right it will never run on 3 cylinders, ever, it's only a 2 cylinder engine. Now you need to pull the carbs and rebuild http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/tren_z/misc/tren_z_header_search.gif (http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/search.php) there are plenty of threads to help you if you'll use that button.

[satanSpawn]

Hey,
I have looked on this site for a similiar problem but have yet to find it.
I have an '05 750 spirit, have done the breather mod and an exhaust mod, after which I HAD to re-jet. My problem is that the bike runs awsome till about 4200 RPM then it falls on it's face(even if I feather the throttle, there is no going past 4200-4500 rpm). I am running 42 pilot jet and 140 mains and my air screws are at 2.75 turns. I have tried jets up to 160 and still the same problem. I didn't buy a jet kit, I have jets in stock, but have noticed that the kits come with an adjustable needle.... could this be my problem, not enough travel on the main needle?
.
Yes I am a noob, no you can't hurt my feeling.. I only have one left.:rolleyes3

[mcvierh]

Hey,
I have looked on this site for a similiar problem but have yet to find it.
I have an '05 750 spirit, have done the breather mod and an exhaust mod, after which I HAD to re-jet. My problem is that the bike runs awsome till about 4200 RPM then it falls on it's face(even if I feather the throttle, there is no going past 4200-4500 rpm). I am running 42 pilot jet and 140 mains and my air screws are at 2.75 turns. I have tried jets up to 160 and still the same problem. I didn't buy a jet kit, I have jets in stock, but have noticed that the kits come with an adjustable needle.... could this be my problem, not enough travel on the main needle?
.
Yes I am a noob, no you can't hurt my feeling.. I only have one left.:rolleyes3

Fuck no........your way way to large in your main jets, rejet with a 138 rear carb, 134 front carb.....if it still bogs in the upper throttle band then down size to 136 rear 132 front. Keep doing that until you hit the right combo., doing 2 down size increments with each rejet.

[satanSpawn]

I tried 138's in both.... couldn't get past 1800 rpm.... but will try your combo just to make certain. I am ordering a jet kit tomorrow... any fav brand or type?
.
.
Oh, and I have a set of NEW stgock Harley slip on's I'm gonna try on. They were not loud on the 2 wheeled tractor engine so I figure they should be ok on the Honda. They look good and are tuned, so wanna try em out. Will do the jet thing at same time.

[mcvierh]

I tried 138's in both.... couldn't get past 1800 rpm.... but will try your combo just to make certain. I am ordering a jet kit tomorrow... any fav brand or type?

First of all your rear carb always takes a larger jet than your front, larger usually by 4. Jets don't care if you order Dyno then they are 2 bucks apiece, if you go Factory Pro i believe they are around 4 bucks apiece.

[satanSpawn]

I have a full assortment of jets, but the kit comes with adjustable needle, which I don't have. With the engine mods I have planned I want as much adjustment options available to me. It is getting the diff jets tomorrow though, will keep you posted on how it works.
.
Thanks for the info and advise

[mcvierh]

I have a full assortment of jets, but the kit comes with adjustable needle, which I don't have. With the engine mods I have planned I want as much adjustment options available to me. It is getting the diff jets tomorrow though, will keep you posted on how it works.
.
Thanks for the info and advise

You really do need to beg, borrow or steal an adjustable aftermarket needle and spring so you can fine tune the needle circuit.

[satanSpawn]

Screw it, just gonna order it tomorrow, will be here next day.... then I get to play with carbs... again... oh goodie. So much easier on a single carb setup where it's at the side... the dual carb in between the V is a pain in the ass. But amazing how I can get just as much power out of a 750CC as I did my 1600CC twin cam.... and it weighs less too!

[Cruffler]

Imagine my pain with a V4...Hell I tell you...HELL! ptsd talkin here...I'll be ok after I discharge my sidearm.

[satanSpawn]

yeah, that would suck.
I get shit for saying this all the time, but I am a fuelly guy... I love fuel injection... so long as you have broadband O2 sensors.... you are guaranteed to get max torque all the time. no changing shit around, hook up to a laptop and read value, then adjust.... easy squeezy.
On most of my Triumph's they were dual AMAL carb setups, not so bad, or dual Mikuni's... again, easy to get at and work on.
.
I will keep playin with mine till I get it right where I want it. I appreciate all your advise though... keep it coming!! LOL

[satanSpawn]

OK, here is a list of all the jets I have tried.... front-back
134-138
132-136
128-132
124-128
118-124
.
the smaller I got the worse it got.... and it still drops off like a mother at 4200 rpm. Went back to 140-142, that combo gets me up and going like a rocket... but nuthin past 4200.
.
I even started switching exhaust, have some stock harley (2008 twin cam) slip ons... same
after market Bubba pipes... same thing
Screamin Eagle pipes.. same thing
.
So, I am going to order the jet kit, all i can seem to find is a stage 1 kit, would prefer a stage 2 kit but can't find a brand or part#, so if anybody has this info it would be a great help as i could order tomorrow and get my pig working like it should. I think i am going to leave the Bubba's on it, the are very short, and have a very evil growl when I shift gears.
.
I will add a picture of them to my profile when i get home.... pics of the Bub pipes added, they sound great and look cool to me.

[satanSpawn]

Going with the Factory-Pro jet kit.... ordering it today. man I hope it solves my problem with this bike.

[lifeofchaos13]

Hey McV I have a question for the Master of the Carb. When I had my HC and JetKit put on bike was running 100% awesome, now 4 months later it seems to die on me when I fast stop. It idles fine normally but on fast stop the idle seems to drop till it dies. Any Ideas?

Thinking may have to adjust the f/a screws

[shadowridr]

jetsrus.com they have the needle and the proper drill bit to drill out slides.

[Zinger]

I'm back, I have a 2003 Spirit 750 and I just installed a Dynojet kit with Vance & Hines 2.25" Straight Shots and a K&N filter. Pin is Groove #3, DJ 102 Jet in Front and DJ104 in rear, the air fuel screws are out 3 turns. The bike idles fine, falls flat as soon as I add the throtle. Any advice please??

[shadowridr]

I don't know about the 03's but the 97 had a 115 main jet from the factory. And we upsize to a 125 you use the DJ kit for the slides, not the jets. Get jets from jetsrus. Com. It sounds like your not getting enough fuel flow under throttle.

[mcvierh]

Hey McV I have a question for the Master of the Carb. When I had my HC and JetKit put on bike was running 100% awesome, now 4 months later it seems to die on me when I fast stop. It idles fine normally but on fast stop the idle seems to drop till it dies. Any Ideas?

Thinking may have to adjust the f/a screws

That sounds like the tension at the throttle drum was set without moving the forks to see if there was any slack in the throttle cables.....and that the idle was set to max tension and now it holds the idle only under tension. I'd be for adjusting the throttle cable/return cable/idle setting.

[Zinger]

Thanks Shadowridr but what are you refering to when you say Slides?? I haven't heard that term before??

[mcvierh]

Thanks Shadowridr but what are you refering to when you say Slides?? I haven't heard that term before??

That would be the throttle slides, they are part of the vacuum/needle portion of the CV carb. As the engine demands increase the slides rise letting in more air to atomize the increased amount of fuel being delivered.

[Zinger]

Thanks McV, I'm still at a loss for the solution to my problem. I'd love to get your take on my problem McV!!!! I have a 2003 Spirit 750 and I just installed a Dynojet kit with Vance & Hines 2.25" Straight Shots and a K&N filter. Pin is Groove #3, DJ 102 Jet in Front and DJ104 in rear, the air fuel screws are out 3 turns. The bike idles fine, falls flat as soon as I add the throtle. Any advice please?? Carb is clean, fuel filter is clean, new gas.????

[mcvierh]

Yeah, your way, way lean in your jetting, you need to install the 106 or108 front carb, 110 or 112 rear carb mains.

[lifeofchaos13]

Yeah, your way, way lean in your jetting, you need to install the 106 or108 front carb, 110 or 112 rear carb mains.

and GOD hath spoken...



UPDATE:
Hey McV I have a question for the Master of the Carb. When I had my HC and JetKit put on bike was running 100% awesome, now 4 months later it seems to die on me when I fast stop. It idles fine normally but on fast stop the idle seems to drop till it dies. Any Ideas?

Thinking may have to adjust the f/a screws

I actually fixed this without having to play with my a/f screws, basically I had the idle turned down the lowest possible and that was causing issues with the HC because of the amount of air being taken in im guessing. I just had to bring my idle up a bit and viola no more issues.

[Zinger]

Thanks Much McV!!! I will give it a try next week. Im away this weekend. Cheers!!!

[shadowridr]

Thanks Mcvierh, for fielding that question before I got back on! appreciate the input, I figured he was way lean with the size jets he is running. Like I said to Zinger earlier, I have a twin carb 97 and am running 115 mains stock, rejets are usually 125's if velocity stacks are installed or going to a hypercharger. The older bikes ran lean from the factory, I don't know if increasing his Idle is the right fix, will just burn more gas!!! increasing the jets' size would be a better fix. Don't you think so???

[Zinger]

Great advice Shadowridr, Thanks. As a start point McV suggests 108 and 112. I'm sensing that you feel I should go larger?? As much imput as possible is appreciated as long as the masses believe that this is the solution. i didnt think that the guy at Dynojet would be this far off, or the kit for that matter. I explained what upgrades I was adding. Do I have to stick with Dynojet Jets at this point, or is it OK to use any manufacturer??

[mcvierh]

Great advice Shadowridr, Thanks. As a start point McV suggests 108 and 112. I'm sensing that you feel I should go larger?? As much imput as possible is appreciated as long as the masses believe that this is the solution. i didnt think that the guy at Dynojet would be this far off, or the kit for that matter. I explained what upgrades I was adding. Do I have to stick with Dynojet Jets at this point, or is it OK to use any manufacturer??

You can use any jet you want. No reason to change though, if your jet kit didn't include the 106-110, then order them from Dyno at around 2 bucks a jet, get the 106,108,110,112.

[lifeofchaos13]

Thanks Mcvierh, for fielding that question before I got back on! appreciate the input, I figured he was way lean with the size jets he is running.

:lol: LMFAO, wow NOOB you got some balls. Do you understand the words that are coming out of my mouth... LOL..

now STFU and FUCK OFF

[Scraprider7]

mcvierh, why do the 750s run different main jets front and rear, while 600s run the same front and rear?

[mcvierh]

Older vlx's with dual carbs ran the same front and rear.....I don't know when the transition was made, but at some point the 600's and 750's and other dual carb setups began running different jets front and rear, it is because the rear cylinder runs much hotter than the front cylinder and because of that the Honda gurus decided that the atomized fuel in the rear cylinder dissipated faster needing a slightly larger main jet for volume of delivery to match the fuel delivery in the front cylinder. A lot has to do with the distance the Air that atomizes the fuel travels to reach the much hotter rear cylinder.

[Senzo]

I have Cobra street cuts on my 2002 750 spirit and it does backfire often. Is re-mapping the only way to cure that? I didnt have them installed, bought it that way so I dont know if it was done but doesnt sound like it. Right now I am just trying to use Seafoam to see what I can get out of carb cleaning.

[mcvierh]

I have Cobra street cuts on my 2002 750 spirit and it does backfire often. Is re-mapping the only way to cure that? I didnt have them installed, bought it that way so I dont know if it was done but doesnt sound like it. Right now I am just trying to use Seafoam to see what I can get out of carb cleaning.

A re-map won't work for you as thats for a FI system. What does work for a carburated system is the Dynometer. But you can do a plug chop and get about as close as you will using a dynometer. With that said Sea-Foam is the hill scruggin way of cleaning carbs. If you suspect that your carbs are dirty and of gunked up the only real way to clean them is to pull them and have at it., one thing you can do rather than pull them is to open the drain valve and hold a small dish under it and see if crud comes out of the float chamber. Now as far as your backfire issue on an '02 750, thats caused by a lean condition. Chances are all you need to do is adjust the A/F mixture to cure that issue, and for gods sake stay away from the sea foam, it causes more problems than it fixes.

[Senzo]

A re-map won't work for you as thats for a FI system. What does work for a carburated system is the Dynometer. But you can do a plug chop and get about as close as you will using a dynometer. With that said Sea-Foam is the hill scruggin way of cleaning carbs. If you suspect that your carbs are dirty and of gunked up the only real way to clean them is to pull them and have at it., one thing you can do rather than pull them is to open the drain valve and hold a small dish under it and see if crud comes out of the float chamber. Now as far as your backfire issue on an '02 750, thats caused by a lean condition. Chances are all you need to do is adjust the A/F mixture to cure that issue, and for gods sake stay away from the sea foam, it causes more problems than it fixes.

Ill try adjusting the AF mixture today. What about b12 chemtool? better?

Thanks.

[mcvierh]

Ill try adjusting the AF mixture today. What about b12 chemtool? better?

Thanks.

B-12 is primarily used on a dis-assembled carb or on the outside of a carb to remove gunk thats on the surface, around throttle body, springs, throttle drums. As far as being used as a gas additive to clean the internals of a fouled carb....not a good idea. Reason being is that if you have a gas fouled carb and use chemical "cleaners" added to the gas tank, what you are doing is breaking up crud thats inside the tank, etc, and now your running it through your tank filter, fuel pump and into your float chamber....if a carb sat long enough for the fuel to go sour then you can bet that the fuel in the line, pump, filters is just as sour. And until you remove the tank and flush it and remove the carbs for a deep cleaning all your doing is wasting your money and time.

[Scraprider7]

Thanks mcvierh! I had a feeling you'd have the answer I was looking for.

Is there anyway an older dual carb would benefit from running a main jet one size up in the rear carb? Do the newer dual carb models have different size intake runnners and/or exhaust on the hotter rear cylinder to compensate for running hotter and with a larger main jet? Or is the only difference that it runs hotter because its in the rear?

[mcvierh]

Older wouldn't benefit running larger in the rear, all that would do is make the rear run richer, and as a matter of fact a leaner rather than richer burn is a cleaner, hotter, faster burn, making for more power., up to a point that is. Beyond a certain point a lean mix is bad news for your engine compared to a rich mix. As far as the rear running hotter, it has to do with the flow of radiant heat from the front to rear, and the fact that even though our engines are liquid cooled air flow still plays a part in displacing the radiant heat given off by the jugs, and the rear cylinder being blocked from that also plays a part in the running hot department. I don't know the exact physics of the aerodynamics of the earlier VT's compared to the recent VT's and why the earlier models used the same jetting front and rear....it is what it is, thats all I know.

[Scraprider7]

thanks mcveirh, thats pretty much what I was thinking, the rear cylinder getting cooled less by oncoming air.

[Zinger]

Much thanks to the Carb Guru McV!!!! I will let you know how it works out and post some pics with the new pipes. Ride safe!!! Cheers!!

[Zinger]

OK my patience are wearing thin!!!! I changed the jets to 104 and 108 the biggest in the Dynojet kit that I purchased. Idles fine but Still have terrible throttle response. Should I adjust the needle one notch to run richer??? I read all info I could find on carbs. Great weekend and I cant ride!!!! Help!!!

[mcvierh]

OK my patience are wearing thin!!!! I changed the jets to 104 and 108 the biggest in the Dynojet kit that I purchased. Idles fine but Still have terrible throttle response. Should I adjust the needle one notch to run richer??? I read all info I could find on carbs. Great weekend and I cant ride!!!! Help!!!


Your still running to lean, 108 front, 112 rear needle at the 3rd. With what you have you could put a 140 in the front and a 144 in the rear and throw the needle away and it'd still idle just great, but the minute you throttle it'll fall on it's face.

[mcvierh]

Here's part of your problem Zinger, you have an '03 VT750DC.....that year was the last year that Honda made a VT750 that was making 54HP stock, yeah thats righ your bike stock is making 54HP....it's a fact, anyway your bikes stock jetting is 105 front, 108 rear, with a 40 slow.....and with the shit you have in it now your front is 1# size less than stock.and your rear is stock. your going to have to get larger main jets, thats all there is to it. with your make and year a 108 rear and a 112 front is still going to a bit lean, but it'll be a hell of a lot better than where you are now. You really need to get a Factory Pro jet kit thats all inclusive with a set of 42 slows and mains all the way up to 140

[mcvierh]

Sounds to me Zinger that someone sold you a jet kit for a 04-07 Honda VT750DC, when Honda had dumbed down the VT to really fucking small head pipes and retarded the timing with a restrictive air filter to make all of a whopping 39HP stock. But that kit works with aftermarket pipes and a K&N for those years.......either that or someone took the 110,112 jets out of it, then sold it to you.

[Senzo]

I found my issue with backfire, exhaust leak. I tightened down the pipes at the flange and all the backfire disappeared. Apparently, I am missing an exhaust bracket which is putting to much weight on the bolt loosening them up. Now to find a bracket.

[Corigan]

I found my issue with backfire, exhaust leak. I tightened down the pipes at the flange and all the backfire disappeared. Apparently, I am missing an exhaust bracket which is putting to much weight on the bolt loosening them up. Now to find a bracket.Your crush gaskets might be bad as well.

[Zinger]

Wow, McV!!!!! That may be the case. The guy I bought the bike from gave me the jet kit brand new in the box and it said VT750. It didnt dawn on me that it was the wrong kit!!! In alll the info I was reading about carbs, they say that the main Jets do not kick into play till half throttle to full. I wasn't getting to half, that is why I was sceptical. Thanks McV!!! I can pop the Carbs in and out in my sleep at this point!!LOLOL Cheers!!

[yuck fou]

:thumbsup:i just bought a 1990 vt1100c honda shadow. I love the bike, i took the baffles out. now the damn thing looks and sounds like a harley. although on deceleration it pops. i dont have a handbook, can somebody tell me where the mixture screw is? btw, the heads are so clean i can eat off of them, the plugs are new. thanks for your time .... I started my bike up yesterday and as soon as I hit the starter, a loud pop like a gunshot went off. I can only assume this was a backfire. When I hit the starter again the bike started up like normal. It never did this before, is it normal or does it indicate a problem?

[feellnfroggy600vlx]

:thumbsup:i just bought a 1990 vt1100c honda shadow. I love the bike, i took the baffles out. now the damn thing looks and sounds like a harley. although on deceleration it pops. i dont have a handbook, can somebody tell me where the mixture screw is? btw, the heads are so clean i can eat off of them, the plugs are new. thanks for your time ....
This is why stickies sould be locked. Its not for new fucing posts noob. Its foryou to read the writeup. If u don't find what you need, then you use the fucking search button, if you SILL don't find what you are looking for then you pos a new thread with your question. But only AFTER YOU SHOW SOME FUCKING COMON COURTESY! And post at the very least a halfassed intro in the ..yup you guessed it...Intro thead. No wonder you can't find the mixture screw, your head is up your ass. Now fuckoff.

[Zinger]

Sorry for the delay McV!! I happened to break the pin on one of the heater assemblies I had to order a new one. To all u Noobs like me, I recomend removing the heater assemblies prior to working on your carbs, the brass pins are insulated with plastic. Cost me $53 for one. Ouch!!! So I installed 110 and 106 Jets cuz they were out of 112's. Now to fire it up I need to pull the choke out full, and give her throttle. I now have throttle response but lost my idle. bike dies if I push in the choke??? I tried adjusting A/F Screws and idle adjust??? What a ride!! Any advice?? Thanks in advance!!

[mcvierh]

Sorry for the delay McV!! I happened to break the pin on one of the heater assemblies I had to order a new one. To all u Noobs like me, I recomend removing the heater assemblies prior to working on your carbs, the brass pins are insulated with plastic. Cost me $53 for one. Ouch!!! So I installed 110 and 106 Jets cuz they were out of 112's. Now to fire it up I need to pull the choke out full, and give her throttle. I now have throttle response but lost my idle. bike dies if I push in the choke??? I tried adjusting A/F Screws and idle adjust??? What a ride!! Any advice?? Thanks in advance!!

Set your rear mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns out, set your front 3 turns out, back off your idle set screw until it isn't touching your throttle drum, now turn the idle set screw until it bearly touches the throttle drum, once it does turn it one full turn against the throttle drum, start the bike and adjust the idle until about 1000 rpm give or take.
If that doesn't get you where you can at least idle without the choke pulled then it could be that the S E valve isn't opening all the way......

[Senzo]

Your crush gaskets might be bad as well.

Good call, I had ordered a new exhaust bracket and assembly from babbitt's and decided to order new gaskets as well. When I took down the exhaust I noticed there weren't any gaskets at all. I put the new gaskets in and put together the bracket and exhaust and she revs up nicely and no stuttering or backfires.

[Corigan]

Good call, I had ordered a new exhaust bracket and assembly from babbitt's and decided to order new gaskets as well. When I took down the exhaust I noticed there weren't any gaskets at all. I put the new gaskets in and put together the bracket and exhaust and she revs up nicely and no stuttering or backfires.Excellent, glad you got it sorted out. Now it's time to ride it!

[leesa]

My bike has done this on occasion as well, it's no big thing. What I believe causes it is some amount of unburned fuel is present inside the combustion chamber. When you first begin to crank the engine over, the exhaust valve is probably sitting open and the bang you hear is that fuel being ignited prematurely. If they ain't the problem make sure your gas is good( that's probaly not it but you never know) if that don't work it sounds like the bike needs to be rejetted

[youngwild&free]

Ok I got a major problem. I have a 86 honda shadow 700vt but the damn diaphragm in both carbs. Ok so here is the real problem the diaphragm is discontinued and I need to know what to do cus so far I'm completely fucked and no one I've talked to knows about my bike they see life in hd and I'm honda thru and thru :thumbsup:

[jonclem]

Ok I got a major problem. I have a 86 honda shadow 700vt but the damn diaphragm in both carbs. Ok so here is the real problem the diaphragm is discontinued and I need to know what to do cus so far I'm completely fucked and no one I've talked to knows about my bike they see life in hd and I'm honda thru and thru :thumbsup:


I checked all my resources with no luck. 12 online stores and nothing.

[youngwild&free]

Damn same thing I keep hearing, but I wana know if the diaphragm from another bike would work in mine. The last thing I wana do is get a whole new carbs shis expensive from what I've found. And k&l doesn't seem to have mine so that's out of the question.:sad: :bomb:

[satanSpawn]

I have the same problem with a '73 CB500 I'm restoring for a guy. Bikes been in storage since 1975... tank & carbs never drained... nasty. Start calling the bike wreckers for something used, ya never know what you'll find. Good luck man.

[jonclem]

Damn same thing I keep hearing, but I wana know if the diaphragm from another bike would work in mine. The last thing I wana do is get a whole new carbs shis expensive from what I've found. And k&l doesn't seem to have mine so that's out of the question.:sad: :bomb:

You might try Western Hill's Honda in Cincinnati, PHONE # 513-662-7759 ,they carry older Honda parts,another possible source is in England,the business is called David Silver Spares. You can find them on the Web.

[jonclem]

Damn same thing I keep hearing, but I wana know if the diaphragm from another bike would work in mine. The last thing I wana do is get a whole new carbs shis expensive from what I've found. And k&l doesn't seem to have mine so that's out of the question.:sad: :bomb:

ANOTHER SOURCE FOR OLD MOTORCYCLE PARTS IS WALNECKS CYCLE TRADER ,IT IS KINDA LIKE A BARGAIN POST FOR CYCLES & IT IS A NATIONAL PUBLICATION,SO THERE A LOT OF VENDORS THAT ADVERTISE IN IT .

[hol571]

I'm looking for a little help w/ some carb tuning troubleshooting. I recently installed cobra dragster pipes (baffles are still in) and a thunder charger air intake on a '02 VT750DC. I rejetted the carbs using the starting conditions recommended by the factory pro kit which are: replacing the pilots w/ 42's, a/f 2.5 turns out, needle clip in 4th spot, and mains of 132/135. While cold it seemed to do fine, and once it warms up it bogs in the mid rpm range (I can hear the engine rpm increase but the bike doesn't pull well) and then it seems to recover as it gets into the high rpms. I thought this indicated a too rich condition for the needle slides and dropped the needles to the 3rd spot. This didn't solve the mid rpm problem, and seemed to almost make it lean in the low rpm range as I started getting popping on decel. Am I still too rich in the mains, would dropping them to 130/132 help and should I move the needle back to the 4th clip? Or am I thinking about this wrong and should go a different direction? Thanks for the help!

[feellnfroggy600vlx]

My vlx has the same prob, I replaced the mains with 122.5's. And I have mid throttle bog when I let off. My instructions said something about cutting the vaccum springs, but I didn't. And I'm at almost a ful 3 turns. From what I understand on here, take your out to 2 3/4 turn front and 3 turns rear. What I've read from other profiles your jetting should be pretty close. They only control the upper end though? The bogging is from to rich and the popping is too lean, so you need to make adjustments. Thicken the sauce low range and lean the midrange. Make sure to post your fix.

[hol571]

for me the mid throttle bog occurs under acceleration. I did cut the little plastic nipple for the needle lock down by 1/2 per the instructions in the factory pro kit to account for the extra needle height, but I'm still using the stock needle spring and vacuum spring

[mcvierh]

I'm looking for a little help w/ some carb tuning troubleshooting. I recently installed cobra dragster pipes (baffles are still in) and a thunder charger air intake on a '02 VT750DC. I rejetted the carbs using the starting conditions recommended by the factory pro kit which are: replacing the pilots w/ 42's, a/f 2.5 turns out, needle clip in 4th spot, and mains of 132/135. While cold it seemed to do fine, and once it warms up it bogs in the mid rpm range (I can hear the engine rpm increase but the bike doesn't pull well) and then it seems to recover as it gets into the high rpms. I thought this indicated a too rich condition for the needle slides and dropped the needles to the 3rd spot. This didn't solve the mid rpm problem, and seemed to almost make it lean in the low rpm range as I started getting popping on decel. Am I still too rich in the mains, would dropping them to 130/132 help and should I move the needle back to the 4th clip? Or am I thinking about this wrong and should go a different direction? Thanks for the help!

Put the circlip on the needle back where it was and re jet the mains for rich condition.

[scrapdog2grand]

Put the circlip on the needle back where it was and re jet the mains for rich condition.

I would have to agree MCV. I am running the HK kickers with the baffles in and a hypercharger,42 pilot,
134, 138, tried the needle on 4, 3 1/2 and 3. I'm still rich with the baffles in.
with the baffles out I'm fine, plugs look perfect with the needles on 4.

I just order about 6 new jets last week so I can start bringing the mains down.
I did have a chance to run it on a dyno yesterday, and I'm not to far off as the power band is pretty smooth.
the dude that runs the dyno's pretty sharp too. hes a BMW Ducati tech. 40$ and he gave it 4 runs, the old SA750 was pretty consistent.

[Poseidon]

on the outside, right behind the throttle drum cover on left as your sitting on bike and on the outside right behind the breather cover, you have to remove the breather cover to access the right side and throttle drum cover to access left....

I have been searching and searching with very little luck. I see this is for a 750 but I can not find the pilot adjustment screw for a 2000 VLX. I will be changing the main jet tomorrow so I have the bowl off but I can not find it inside or outside of the carb. Can someone give me a location? Im still searching the site but just in case I don't find it for the VLX maybe someone could help me out. Thanks in advance.:freak:

[Poseidon]

Or even better... trying to make this as easy as possible... Just tell me a number.lol. I was on the OEM Honda parts website and none of the nomenclatures say pilot valve/adjustment screw. I haven't had this much trouble finding something so small.... :laugh4:

[scrapdog2grand]

Or even better... trying to make this as easy as possible... Just tell me a number.lol. I was on the OEM Honda parts website and none of the nomenclatures say pilot valve/adjustment screw. I haven't had this much trouble finding something so small.... :laugh4:

its #5 , gonna be up behind the carb bowl, GL

[Poseidon]

its #5 , gonna be up behind the carb bowl, GL


it would be there.lol. thx scrapdog

[Poseidon]

It was hard for me to find the pilot adjustment screw because the guy before me must have drilled it out over 1/8th of an inch or so. it is jacked up to say the least. from what I can see it is screwed all the way down tight because I can feel the end of the valve poking out of the hole to the air chamber. I am looking to get a new carburetor but until then i made a few adjustments to the other circuits such as putting the needle down three and using a 130 main (largest in my stock). I haven't checked the plugs on a WOT slap yet but I will. I have a feeling i will be running lean and like it was said in one the previous post it could do some damage to the engine. Could i run it like this? or will this do more harm? It is a daily driver and the only one I have for right now. Could these adjustments be good enough until i find a new carb?

[xx1100xx]

After reading all 20 pages of this thread i dont think i can find the answer i am looking for.. maybe someone can help.

Ride: 87 vt110c

When i bought the bike the guy said it had been jetted. The bike had crappy bare metal kind of pipes (pic in gallery). It popped a little like that on decel.. since then i have put on some drag pipes (brand unknown). Pops like crazy on decel now.

I have located the adjustment screws and have checked them.. they are 5 1/4 turns out on both. I adjusted them to 3 and 3 1/4 and the bike wouldnt stay running. Backed them back out to 5 1/4 and the bike runs but sounds like a machine gun on decel.

Any idea on how to stop the pop?

Thanks in advance.

[Poseidon]

Do you know what size jets you are running and what notch your needle is? I am sure someone with a shit ton more knowledge will pipe in but the best thing i have for you is to figure out where you stand with those and start adjusting each until it gets right. Use the search function and keep searching. There is A LOT of information, especially from MCV. You will learn so much that you will be dreaming about adjusting your carbs.lol. Good luck.

[xx1100xx]

Unfortunately i have no clue what the specs are on the jets.

i guess i could probably answer my own question by just buying a new kit and starting from "scratch".

But if anyone has any input i'll wait for that before i go buying new and all..

NOOBWHOCANTFIGUREOUTTHEJETISSUE thanks u.

[Poseidon]

yea, i was thinking the same. push comes to shove, you can either get a kit for 80 bucks 'ish or you can go to jetsrus.com and get what you need (based off of research). Im sure someone might pipe in. Sometimes it takes time and sometimes not.

[mcvierh]

After reading all 20 pages of this thread i dont think i can find the answer i am looking for.. maybe someone can help.

Ride: 87 vt110c

When i bought the bike the guy said it had been jetted. The bike had crappy bare metal kind of pipes (pic in gallery). It popped a little like that on decel.. since then i have put on some drag pipes (brand unknown). Pops like crazy on decel now.

I have located the adjustment screws and have checked them.. they are 5 1/4 turns out on both. I adjusted them to 3 and 3 1/4 and the bike wouldnt stay running. Backed them back out to 5 1/4 and the bike runs but sounds like a machine gun on decel.

Any idea on how to stop the pop?

Thanks in advance.


Your stock slow jets are the 42 slows.....if your at 5 1/2 out and you have de-cel pop going on then you really really need to replace your slows for the next larger size i.e. 44's....contact Factory Pro for your slow jets., everything else aside your needle setting and your mains really don't factor in when you decel because your off the throttle and your slows are now at work, so don't worry about the needles and mains right now, worry about larger slows.

[Poseidon]

don't worry about the needles and mains right now, worry about larger slows.

Learned something new. :cool4:

[mcvierh]

Learned something new. :cool4:

Actually when rejetting for pipes or intake mods, your starting point would be at the top, i.e. the main jet, and after you get the best main you can, then the needle setting, last would be the pilots, but in this case the rejet has been done and the issue is that at factory setting of the slows the bike bearly runs and at 5 1/2 out there is machine gun decel pop.....symtoms point to the slows.

[xx1100xx]

McV: "Your stock slow jets are the 42 slows.....if your at 5 1/2 out and you have de-cel pop going on then you really really need to replace your slows for the next larger size i.e. 44's....contact Factory Pro for your slow jets., everything else aside your needle setting and your mains really don't factor in when you decel because your off the throttle and your slows are now at work, so don't worry about the needles and mains right now, worry about larger slows."

Thanks for the info.. i will look into it. Would a new jet kit come with all matching needles and stuff ?

[Poseidon]

Thanks for the info.. i will look into it. Would a new jet kit come with all matching needles and stuff ?

i just got a cobra jet kit and it didnt come with the slows. came with everything else. BUT it was for a VLX. when you are shopping for them it should give you detailed information on what you will be getting. maybe MCV knows a kit that comes with everything.

[xx1100xx]

kool.. thanks. i'll start searching.

[mcvierh]

Dyno/cobra doesn't make the slows......the only kits that com4e with them are the Factory Pro kits.

[feellnfroggy600vlx]

good to know, i didnt know if my lil vlx had slows or not.....

[Poseidon]

good to know, i didnt know if my lil vlx had slows or not.....

i have a 45 slow in my 2000 vlx. i know the 97-98 have a 40 slow. I'm not sure what you are rockin...

[the.voodoo.chilD]

i fucked up....well ill start by saying that i have no mechanical experience whatsoever....i bought a 2001 honda vt600.....and since i got it a few weeks ago i noticed that it was idling weirdly and it would only run with the choke 1/4 way out...after doing some research i got to the conclusion that the carb was dirty.... so i took it apart to clean it (remember i have no mechanical experience), somehow i managed to put it back together but in the process of taking apart a screen filter kind of thing fell from somewhere and i dont where it goes...i need help asap...the motorcycle runs but it has the same issue it idles weirdly and it stalls...i have the bring the revs very high up...dont know what to do!!

[Poseidon]

i fucked up....well ill start by saying that i have no mechanical experience whatsoever....i bought a 2001 honda vt600.....and since i got it a few weeks ago i noticed that it was idling weirdly and it would only run with the choke 1/4 way out...after doing some research i got to the conclusion that the carb was dirty.... so i took it apart to clean it (remember i have no mechanical experience), somehow i managed to put it back together but in the process of taking apart a screen filter kind of thing fell from somewhere and i dont where it goes...i need help asap...the motorcycle runs but it has the same issue it idles weirdly and it stalls...i have the bring the revs very high up...dont know what to do!!

the only screen filter i know comes from the fuel pump and is cone shaped...are we talking about the same? should be. with or with out it won't effect operation. Just goo to have to ensure bullshit doesn't get in and clog ur carb. Did you take the pilot jet out? might have not put in with the same amount of turns. you can't tighten it down too far or you will close it. it should be about 2.5-2.75 turns out. also, i have seen retards crank down on their slow jet smashing down the part into the carb. that stuff is pretty sensitive to retard strength. tighten until it is snug and that is it. I can't say what is up because i don't know what you did differently. keep searching on this site... there is a METRIC ASS TON of information on this site. MCV has posted A LOT of information about the fuel circuits in the carb and the workings. if you know how she works you can eliminate what circuit is giving you shit. good luck.

[the.voodoo.chilD]

the only screen filter i know comes from the fuel pump and is cone shaped...are we talking about the same? should be. with or with out it won't effect operation. Just goo to have to ensure bullshit doesn't get in and clog ur carb. Did you take the pilot jet out? might have not put in with the same amount of turns. you can't tighten it down too far or you will close it. it should be about 2.5-2.75 turns out. also, i have seen retards crank down on their slow jet smashing down the part into the carb. that stuff is pretty sensitive to retard strength. tighten until it is snug and that is it. I can't say what is up because i don't know what you did differently. keep searching on this site... there is a METRIC ASS TON of information on this site. MCV has posted A LOT of information about the fuel circuits in the carb and the workings. if you know how she works you can eliminate what circuit is giving you shit. good luck.


yes it is cone shaped, i put it into the carb in the hose that comes from the fuel auto valve ... it was the only place it would perfectly fit.... and yes i took everything apart including jets, float, etc.... i guess ill have to re-do it all or should i take it to a pro??...i can tell u that i did not force anything in but when it came to putting back but i did not count turns or anything...i'm also thinking about taking the air box out and putting a cone filter instead...i also wanna cut down the pipes...and from what i've read im supposed to re-jet so idk if i should do it all at once or if i should fix the problem first and then do the mods...im gonna keep on looking!! thanks for the response !!!

[Poseidon]

yea if you didn't count turns on the a/f adjustment screw then u are wrong.

http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23268

second post. keep reading and learning. the local Honda place here charges 80 bones to get that work done for you if you don't feel confident in your abilities. Im sure a local place would charge around that number. If you don't know what you are doing it is easy to fuck up. If you take your time and learn as much as you can from others here you can be successful.

[mcvierh]

Quote:
Originally Posted by the.voodoo.chilD
i fucked up....well ill start by saying that i have no mechanical experience whatsoever....i bought a 2001 honda vt600.....and since i got it a few weeks ago i noticed that it was idling weirdly and it would only run with the choke 1/4 way out...after doing some research i got to the conclusion that the carb was dirty.... so i took it apart to clean it (remember i have no mechanical experience), somehow i managed to put it back together but in the process of taking apart a screen filter kind of thing fell from somewhere and i dont where it goes...i need help asap...the motorcycle runs but it has the same issue it idles weirdly and it stalls...i have the bring the revs very high up...dont know what to do!!






Sometimes it isn't that the carb needs to be rebuilt, sometimes it just that the valves need to be adjusted.......but since it's acting like the carb needs to be rebuilt thats what gets done and when your finished it still runs the same and your standing there scratching your head. Check your valve adjustment. Don't do any of the mods like pipes and filter until your bike is running perfect otherwise you'll never know what to do to compensate for the mods you've done.

[the.voodoo.chilD]

Quote:
Originally Posted by the.voodoo.chilD
i fucked up....well ill start by saying that i have no mechanical experience whatsoever....i bought a 2001 honda vt600.....and since i got it a few weeks ago i noticed that it was idling weirdly and it would only run with the choke 1/4 way out...after doing some research i got to the conclusion that the carb was dirty.... so i took it apart to clean it (remember i have no mechanical experience), somehow i managed to put it back together but in the process of taking apart a screen filter kind of thing fell from somewhere and i dont where it goes...i need help asap...the motorcycle runs but it has the same issue it idles weirdly and it stalls...i have the bring the revs very high up...dont know what to do!!






Sometimes it isn't that the carb needs to be rebuilt, sometimes it just that the valves need to be adjusted.......but since it's acting like the carb needs to be rebuilt thats what gets done and when your finished it still runs the same and your standing there scratching your head. Check your valve adjustment. Don't do any of the mods like pipes and filter until your bike is running perfect otherwise you'll never know what to do to compensate for the mods you've done.


ill follow ur advice... ill get this fixed by a pro, and then ill do the mods...!! thanks a lot!!

[sodapopsik]

i was reading through here to see if someone had my problem but couldnt find it. i bought my vt600 about a month ago and it already had a velocity stack on it instead of the stock air cleaner and im not sure if it was rejetted (or if it needed to be or if thats the problem now). When i turn my bike on it would idle fine but once i pulled the throttle a bit it sounded inconsistent and would stall half the time. i would let it warm up for about 10-15 min the take it out for a ride and after the first 5 min ride it would almost want to stall out when i let the clutch go completely from 1st and then the same after switching to 2nd. after about 5 min or so of riding it would feel normal and accelerate like it should. do i need to rejet, take the carb out and clean it all out, or ????

[Poseidon]

I had a similar problem recently and it was a clogged up slow jet circuit along with the air fuel mixture screw being improperly adjusted. I would take a look at your carb and see how she looks. if anything blow air through it and clean her up. See how she rides then... until then FUCKOFFNOOBFROMLONGBEACHCA. Welcome and good luck. :jamming:

[sodapopsik]

will do. haha thnks man.

[the.voodoo.chilD]

well i cleaned up the carbs and now she idles fine, i don't need the choke at all times but now im havin other issues... im having misfires and backfires as i hit the throttle it does respond and it happens at all speeds, yesterday it happen as i was getting on the express way and it was scary.... i did some research and my conclusion is that im running lean.... is this fixable by turning the pilot screw??

[maninthebox88]

got a quick question. anyone know of a place other than the service manual I can find a tubing diagram for the carb. I bought it in cali so im assuming its cali type evap control. but when I look at the diagram I have it only shows 3 hoses coming from the evap control and the actual thing has 4 coming out of it. I know its a noob quesiton but this is the first time Ive ever fucked with a carb.

[BrockGrimes]

I'm having the same issue: im having misfires and backfires as i hit the throttle it does respond and it happens at all speeds

Mine 03 spirit vt750 ran fine before winter, and I started it a couple times over the winter, kept the tank full and had stabil in it. However when I took it out for it's first ride it spit and sputtered and had a hesitation at all rpms and throttle positions. Found a carb heater missing and one broken. I replaced them but it still has a hesitation or miss. Seems worse when it's cold out of driving into a head wind. Ideas?
Bike is stock except for the cobra pipes.

[Overampped]

1. Try draining the float bowls into a clear glass container & see what settles out (debris/water).

2. Sample the fuel tank also.

3. If any samples look funky then my money's on carb &/or tank cleaning.

4. Start a new thread with further questions so this sticky doesn't keep growing.

[CrimsonReign]

this aint no testing grounds take your noob nuke and dump it somewhere else ya corpsfucking retard

[maninthebox88]

I took my carb and had it cleaned in a solvent tank and all the rubber seals replaced. got it hooked back up, ran good for a while. but seems like if I run it more than 30 minutes it chokes out when Im idling at an intersection. I cant figure out what the fuck it is at this point. the only thing I can think of now is I havent heard the radiator fan run since I moved from california.

[03ACE]

If the carb was fubar, check your petcock. It might be junked up, too. If so, the bike will run on what is in the line and carb bowl and slowly run dry over time.

[maninthebox88]

I kinda suspected that, but why would it run normal up until the engine got a lil hot. and its been gettin pretty fuckin hot too. thanks for the advice though man Ill check that out

[03ACE]

I know what you mean about it getting hot and the fan not kicking on, etc. but I have never seen a Honda shut down from heat. Hell, Froggy's bike hasn't had antifreeze or water in it since he has owned it.....

[maninthebox88]

its irrelevant now I guess, just put it down hard today. hit a pothole in a turn and slid a good ways. not done riding, but done on that bike anyway. gonna fix it and sell it man. had nothing but problems with it since I bought it 2 years ago. come to the conclusion its just bad luck, maybe cuz I never put one of them little bells on it.

[Overampped]

Sorry to hear about the get-off, glad you're okay.

[jillmclean]

Hey all
New to the forum, about a 3 year rider.
Just bought a 2003 Honda Spirit 750 about 2300 miles.

I've been having a hell of a time with this bike, culminating in an epic breakdown this morning in the middle of the Tucson desert. Good times.

Need some advice from the experts. We've been getting the run around from a local shop and unfortunately have no way to know if they're screwing me over (not that it should matter but I'm female and afraid they're trying to pull the wool over my eyes).

Question #1: How often does a bike need their carbs cleaned?

If this matters, the background:
Original owner had the carbs cleaned this past December after bike stopped running. (previously had no problems) The same shop we are using now got it running, but then about 2 months later same problems, bike wouldn't run. Took it back in, "problem cleared itself out" and a few days later we bought the bike from the guy.

Few days later...bike died on me while riding at about 30mph, engine just turned off, and i kind of coasted to side of road. Took it in to shop. They proceeded to put in a new fuel pump, and I opted to get new battery while I was there, as well as new spark plugs.

Upon installation, they said bike was only running on 1 cylinder and recommended a carb clean ($350). Long story short, they were shady with some other stuff (we knew this was done in Dec and they didn't know we knew and when confronted had no explanation as to why they blessed the bike as "fixed" when it really wasn't. After a heated discussion they drained all the fuel, and then we left with them still saying bike is good to go.

Nope! It just died out while I sat at neutral at a light. Got it to start up. But then at about 60 mph, again it just quit on me, stranding me in the desert.

Bike shop is being difficult and saying we should have got the carb cleaned..(about $350)...but again, not sure if we can trust them. They warranty their work so ...

Sorry for the epic post (noob) but, really annoyed...but hoping anyone can enlighten me on the whole carburetor thing and how often it has to be done, and if this even sounds like is the problem.

I've had a honda rebel and it could sit forever and start right up. No problems, but this has been hell, and I'm just too ill-informed about how bikes work to go back and forth with them.

Any advice appreciated! I have really enjoyed reading through these forums, glad the site exists!

[maninthebox88]

hey jill Im not an expert but the carbs may not be the problem. the exact same thing has been happening to me. Had the carbs cleaned in a solvent tank and it didnt do shit for me. If your going to have it done though, find a locally owned shop not a big time dealership. to have mine cleaned ran me about 150, and that was with replacing the seals. I ordered a new fuel filter, cleaned and replaced the petcock filter and it didnt help either. kinda stuck in the same predicament right now. gettin real sick of throwin money into mine and its only and 02.