Caliper....

[homero427]

my tank wont get done from the paint shop til sunday..so i can't ride the bike.
so decided to troubleshoot the brake handle again...
i jacked the bike up and spun the front wheel, and i heard the brake pads rubbing a little, i think the pads collapse onto the disc. the left side pad has about 2cm apart and the rightside is on the disc.
should i push the pads away from the disc w/ a screwdriver to see if their is tension?

i'm gonna play with it again...(the bike)
thanks

[AirportFF]

On any brake system you will hear the pads dragging, that's completely normal.

Your issue, if I understand the other post, is air in the lines. You mentioned that you used the vacuum pump to bleed them. How many tries? And was it hooked up correct? It may take a while, even with the vac pump. I just did Susan's last night and it took about half an hour. Also while your opening and closing the bleeder to get the air out of the lines, DO NOT let the master cylinder empty out. If that happens you will pull more air in the lines and have to start over.

[cowboy]

You can also pump fluid up from the bleader valve to the master cylinder when it is empty so all the air gets pushed out the master cylinder.

[fegs]

On any brake system you will hear the pads dragging, that's completely normal.

Your issue, if I understand the other post, is air in the lines. You mentioned that you used the vacuum pump to bleed them. How many tries? And was it hooked up correct? It may take a while, even with the vac pump. I just did Susan's last night and it took about half an hour. Also while your opening and closing the bleeder to get the air out of the lines, DO NOT let the master cylinder empty out. If that happens you will pull more air in the lines and have to start over.


Airport:
I agree with you. Unless there is an issue with the brake line, I assume there is air in the line. Though, the ft. brake line is not large in diameter it is rather long and can store more air in it. I would rebleed over and over.

fegs...

[AirportFF]

You can also pump fluid up from the bleader valve to the master cylinder when it is empty so all the air gets pushed out the master cylinder.

I would advise against that. By pumping the fluid up into the master cylinder you run the risk of some splashing onto the paint. Brake fluid will damage it, if you don't notice that it's there.

[Ghost_Rider]

Homero427,

Just wanna share, same thing happened to my braided brakeline. My mechanic did the bleed though, but he did it manually without the vac pump over and over again for a few hours! Previously no such problem with stock hose.

He mentioned these:
- Clean up your master cylinder & rubber seal, and empty your brake line.
- Make sure there are no damage at the brake line, washer & bolts.
- Tighten all bolts properly. After filling the master cylinder, wait a while until the fluid comes out at the bottom, then start bleeding again & again.

I post in the other thread, you can use a transparent hose attached to the bleeder bolt, put the other end into a bottle of water, so that it wont get messy & you can see if there's any more bubbles coming out. Airport is right, this fluid will damage your paint...so becarefull.

Sorry not much new info here. Hope you get it done soon.

[AirportFF]

That is one thing you can try.

Fill the master cylinder
Attach a piece of clear tubing to the bleeder
Put the other end of the tubing in a empty jar or pan
Open the bleeder valve (just a little)
Gently move the lever a few times
Let gravity fill the line.
As the master cyclinder gets low refill it

This may take quite a while, I have the same brake line as you do.

Next

You are going to need at least 4 components out of your vacuum pump kit
(2 pieces of tubing, the plastic jar with the two hose connections on the top, and the pump)

Connect one piece of tubing to the bleeder
Connect the other end to the plastic jar
Connect the other tube from the fitting on the jar that says (TO PUMP) and then hook the pump to the other end.



Make sure the master cyclinder is full
Pump up the vacuum (I can get mine up near 25"HG)
Open the bleeder, when there is no more vacuum or the fluid moves slower, keep pumping the pump a few seconds. (NOTE: the fluid that is coming out should be getting left in the jar, not drawn into the pump, if it is something is wrong)
Close the bleeder
Repeat as many times as needed.

Maintain a full master cylinder
You can also move the lever very gently to make sure that there are no airpockets in the piston of the cylinder.
As I said before, this may take 6-8 tries and up to a half hour or so.
Don't be impatient and do it right

[navillustoo]

Homey,
Sometimes you have to loosen the banjo bolt and bleed the master cylinder alone. Air will get trapped in the banjo bolt and the only way to get it out is by bleeding at the banjo bolt. If all else fails to get rid of the spongy lever, try this method.

Brian

[Machinehead]

I'd advise against prying the pads away with the screwdriver. Some noise is normal. With a set of clean pads and a clean rotor the noise you hear is more than likely normal.

Also, I've heard that when using the vacuum pump air will enter the system via the bleeder valve threads and wrapping teflon tape around them will resolve it.

I've used the procedure that navillustoo mentions in the past and it works.

[navillustoo]

I've used the procedure that navillustoo mentions in the past and it works.

MH, you're probably the one I heard it from! So I have to give credit where credit is due! Machinehead's the MAN!

Brian

[homero427]

everyone,
finally got my brake handle to work,,,
took me about 30 minutes non-stop to bleed the brakes. i used the whole bottle of brake fluid. i noticed everytime i squeeze the handle very, very little bubbles came out of the master resovoir, so i did it for 30 to 45 min and finally the handle began to get tension.........time and patience......i appreciate everyone's input,
THANKS!!!!!!

[Machinehead]

:thumb:

Ride on.......

[Ghost_Rider]

Great!!! Did you bleed the banjo bolt?

Nice ride by the way.

[homero427]

thanks ghost rider,(and all other riders who helped,, good shit)
appreciate the help,,,had to bleed for about 1 hr non stop...but got it to work..
bought a new battery rode bike today for the first time this year...i'm good to go now man,,,
:ukliam3:

[logan176]

Okay, I have read the entire thread and a few others about bleeding the brakes. Right now I've been bleeding the brakes for about 45 minutes and the brake lever is still mush. I'm bleeding the brake line because I am installing a new braided line. Here's what I've been doing...


remove master cylinder cover and fill with fluid
squeeze the lever a few times until the little bubbles stop showing in the master cylinder resevour
squeeze lever 4 times and hold
while holding the lever I loosen the bleeder bolt for about 3 seconds, just until I see the fluid stop moving
tighten bleeder bolt and slowly release brake lever
squeeze the lever 4 times and continue the process until I want to stab myself with a rusted wrench


Am I doing this right or am I screwing up somewhere?

[MISpiritRider]

You don't have to do it exactly 4 times, with vehicles you should pump until the pedal holds SOME pressure. Then hold and bleed and repeat...:cool4:

[Corpsegrinder]

Crack the bleeder as your squeezing the lever and close the bleeder before it bottoms out. You'll never be able to bleed em the way your doin it.

[logan176]

It took about 1 hour and 15 minutes, but I finally got it. I wound up squeezing the lever 10-15 times before I opened the bleeder each time. Thanks for the help guys.

[Paradox]

The best and quickest way is to hit up your auto mechanic friends for a portable power bleeder. My bud got one off the Snap On truck, I assume Mac has something similar. Small ones hook up to an air line and suck the brake fluid from the bleeder fitting. You crack the fitting and keep the master cylendar full untill you see no bubbles. You can completely refill the fluid several times in a few minutes this way so be carefull.

[quam]

It took about 1 hour and 15 minutes, but I finally got it. I wound up squeezing the lever 10-15 times before I opened the bleeder each time. Thanks for the help guys.
shouldn't have had to squeeze the lever that many times between bleeds. you have to squeeze the lever slowly but not too slow. timing it right helps the fluid move in the line. another little trick is to flick the brake line w/ your finger all along it's length as you're squeezing the lever. that'll move the little bubbles up the line.
no matter how you do it, it's a pain in the ass!