Bean Box Mod

[AirportFF]

http://www.sa750.com/tech/airbox.htm


http://www.sa750.com/airboxmod/beansairbox.htm

[croach1]

I just did this one. Made a world of difference.

[Mr.Sinister]

Has any one done this on the Spirit ? I believe the one this was done on is an ACE . I got a new filter and jet kit on the way for this mod . I can finaly run my Burbs . Is the backing plate the same minus the miner shape difrence ?

[Mr.Sinister]

Has any one done this on the Spirit ? I believe the one this was done on is an ACE . I got a new filter and jet kit on the way for this mod . I can finaly run my Burbs . Is the backing plate the same minus the miner shape difrence ?
I have and yes it is .

[AirportFF]

See you answered your own question

[Mr.Sinister]

And anyone else who wondered .

[typhoon]

well guys, so since i already regestered,am i welcome here in this forum now :guitarist

[Rheopipo]

FUCK OFF NOOOOOOOOOOBBBBB!!!

:big gun: and welcome!!

[typhoon]

like i said before , i`m pretty new here in you`re forum, but not hew to spirit world, been around for a long time. thanx and if i misunderstood what than fuck off noobbbb means. i may need more to be educated here. thanx

[Rheopipo]

That is our official welcome to the forum :grin:

[Rheopipo]

Like asshole everybody has one hehe.

[AirportFF]

And anyone else who wondered .


I haven't done it to her bike. I want to get her use to it before any performance mods. The weather is getting too nice to be dicking around taking everything apart again.

Next Winter though.........

[Mr.Sinister]

I went and tweaked the fuel screws , Again today. It is still going to take a little tweaking .

[Galager]

Was it hard to do? Never touched a carb, so I'm afraid to rip my bike apart and fuck it up. Especially when ti sounds like you may need to do it a couple of times to get it right. Livin in NYC means I got no garage and I have to do all my mods on the street. Lots of fun, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Taking a carb apart in the middle of the street doesn't sound like its going to be worth the hassle!

[Mr.Sinister]

If you have some one who has worked on any carb to help not so bad . And pray for good weather . It is not really that bad . I think it was harder to put on a couple of the hoses than than any thing else . Mostly due to space . The biggest thing is LABEL YOUR HOSES . It can be a little confusing the first time . I only had to pull the carbs once . I could dink with it more and maby get a couple more ponys , but I don't think it worth the hassle . I will be adding baffles to my Burbs and that may richen things up a bit . I get a little lean at the top of the gears . I also ride my bike pretty hard when I can . It forces me to treat my bike nicer i.e. switch out of 2nd at 35 not 45/50 mph .Just because you can do somethings does not mean you should .

[SpiritofNY]

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the gas tank in order to do the bean box mod?

[olpanrider]

man that's the easy part. If you're hesitant about the tank removal, you might wanta rethink what you're about to do. my .02 anyway.................

[AirportFF]

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the gas tank in order to do the bean box mod?

put the tools down and back sloooowly away from the motorcycle..........:rifle:

[rifleman223]

Just got this mod done, BOY that tiny intake is obnoxious!! I cant wait to get the bike running after the re-jet

[rifleman223]

Just got this mod done. Rejetting the carbs was a B*tch!! Boy.. Not much room there!!.Test drove it and it is STELLAR!!!! Thanks guys!

BTW, I did a DJ Stage 1.

[rifleman223]

Need some advise, I got the stage 1 and the bike is hesitating on power with a load. Which jets should I use?

[MISpiritRider]

I would suggest searching, going to those links again too. It's been mentioned many of times...

[RAZOR]

the bike is hesitating on power with a load. Which jets should I use?
WITH A LOAD???-- WHAT DO YOU GOT A U-HAUL HOOKED UP TO YOUR BIKE??

[rifleman223]

What I mean is, if the bike is on the jack, it revs up fine, but when I am riding it, it hesitates.

WITH A LOAD???-- WHAT DO YOU GOT A U-HAUL HOOKED UP TO YOUR BIKE??

[miclash1]

WITH A LOAD???-- WHAT DO YOU GOT A U-HAUL HOOKED UP TO YOUR BIKE??

razor thats not nice.

i believe he is talking about the load he carries around in his mouth....


now be nice

[rifleman223]

I am sorry but I should have explained better. I did the bean box mod and installed a free flow muffler with baffles.

I installed Dynojet Stage 1 kit and installed the 102 and 104 jets. The jets that everyone recommends are presumably without the slide spring and the needle. So I am unsure if those rcommended jets apply since the bike seems to be starving for fuel.

With that said, I was wondering if anyone has done this and what jets are recommended.

[miclash1]

:moon: :moon: :moon: :moon: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: razor thats not nice.

i believe he is talking about the load he carries around in his mouth....


now be nice

[RAZOR]

I am sorry but I should have explained better. I did the bean box mod and installed a free flow muffler with baffles.

I installed Dynojet Stage 1 kit and installed the 102 and 104 jets. The jets that everyone recommends are presumably without the slide spring and the needle. So I am unsure if those rcommended jets apply since the bike seems to be starving for fuel.

With that said, I was wondering if anyone has done this and what jets are recommended.


BEAN BOX MOD - AFTERMARKET PIPES :no: -- YOU NEED TO GO TO THE STAGE 3 JET KIT DUDE.......

[rifleman223]

I just looked at Dynojet's site and they do not have a Stage 3 for the Spirit. I am alo aware that I only have to change the main jets and I saw on another post that they used the 124 front and 128 rear and moving the needle to the 3rd groove.

Are those numbers Dynojet numbers?

[RAZOR]

I just looked at Dynojet's site and they do not have a Stage 3 for the Spirit. I am alo aware that I only have to change the main jets and I saw on another post that they used the 124 front and 128 rear and moving the needle to the 3rd groove.

Are those numbers Dynojet numbers?


yep sound like dynojet numbers....you could ordered them individuely from them...

[rifleman223]

OK, I installed the Mikuni jets equivalent to the 124 and 128 and the bike is STILL bogging at mid to high. Do I really need to go to the 134 138 jets? That seems like a HUGE jump from the stock just from pipes and a modded air box.

I t also sounds like I have to increase the pilot jet size because the backfiring has increased.

[olpanrider]

rifleman - I used the factory pro kit with no problems. Check out their site:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html (http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html)

hang in there - you'll get it.................

[croach1]

OK, I installed the Mikuni jets equivalent to the 124 and 128 and the bike is STILL bogging at mid to high. Do I really need to go to the 134 138 jets? That seems like a HUGE jump from the stock just from pipes and a modded air box.

I t also sounds like I have to increase the pilot jet size because the backfiring has increased.
I have the bean box mod and I have removed the baffles from my pipes. For me the 134 138 jets have been perfect. The bike runs great.

Have you done anything to the pipes?

[rifleman223]

Yes, I installed some drag pipes with baffles. Basically, all I have done is the bean box mod and changed the pipes. I am curious if you changed the needle or the pilot jets. I have the Stage 1 Dynojet kit installed and I have now swapped the main jets with the 124/128 equivalent in Mikuni.

I am backfiring a lot more as well so I might have to mess with the pilot jet. Did you guys change the pilot? Or did you simply do the 134/138 and nothing else?

[olpanrider]

Yes, I installed some drag pipes with baffles. Basically, all I have done is the bean box mod and changed the pipes. I am curious if you changed the needle or the pilot jets. I have the Stage 1 Dynojet kit installed and I have now swapped the main jets with the 124/128 equivalent in Mikuni.

I am backfiring a lot more as well so I might have to mess with the pilot jet. Did you guys change the pilot? Or did you simply do the 134/138 and nothing else?

sounds like your too lean. Do the 134/138 combo with a larger pilot jet (42?) and new needles/clips.............IMHO

[rifleman223]

OK, I will try that today. Thank you VERY much. I will keep you posted. OK, back to taking these carbs out...

[croach1]

I did change to the 42 pilot jets and changed the needles. Then fine tuned on the mixture screws. I get no backfiring.

[RAZOR]

OK, I will try that today. Thank you VERY much. I will keep you posted. OK, back to taking these carbs out...


:rolleyes3 SOME TIMES I GUESS YOU NEED TO TELL PEOPLE A FEW TIMES
BEFORE THEY WILL BELIEVE YOU HUH? :rolleyes3

[rifleman223]

I'm a glutton. What can I say? :-)

[RAZOR]

I'm a glutton. What can I say? :-)


:happy2: :happy2:
good luck-- sometimes it takes a few times to get the jetting right.
make sure you use those air mixture screws as well...

[rifleman223]

Success!!! Got the jets in 135 and 137.5 with a 42 pilot! Bike pulls MUCH more and no more backfiring !! You guys are great!

[MikeG]

Hey guys just have a question for you. I'm in the middle of doing this mod and wanted to know who adjusted their needle position? Is it necessary? I noticed that some didn't mention if they changed their pilot jet or not. Any help would be appreciated. So I figure I need a D134, D138 and maybe a new pilot jet? Any part # on the pilot jet? Thanks. I'm sure I will see some nice replys being that I'm the noobie! Ha ha!

[MikeG]

Oh yeah...where did you guys pick up these jets? The local shops are telling me to go directly to Dynojet. Yuo have got to be kidding me right? I need them today.

[MikeG]

Ok the mod is done. I found some jets at a local shop. Right now I'm still fine tuning because it just isn't right yet. It runs good but as for an increase in power...I'm not seeing it. I think I got my idle circuit set and I didn't change my pilots but the mains might be kind of rich. I went with the 135 up front and the 138 in the rear. I'm going to change the needles around and see what happens then maybe go leaner on the jets.
Anyone move their needle clips at all from the stage 1 setting which is 3 down from the top?

[quam]

just finished this mod. used the same 134 front 138 rear as specified earlier in this thread and on sa750. got the pilot screws to 3 turns front and 3 1/4 turns rear. perfect. runs smooth, def increase in torque. pulled the plugs today after riding for a couple days and they look good! now i gotta synch the carbs.

[quam]

oh yeah, and i left my needles to the stage 1 position: 3rd down from the flat end.

[mcvierh]

Got the factory pro 42's in the mail this Sat.----paid for em on a Thurs. and in the mail box on a Sat., can't beat that for service, I guess I'm gonna pull the Carbs after work today, ....not only that I just found out this Sat that my scooter has 4 plugs, go figure...I've been changin' the 2 I kept seein' on the jugs and someone tpld me that there's 2 up under the tank, no fuckin' way...but sure as shit, 14,000 on half the plugs ...should run even better now....sneaky little pearl harbor shits, does anyone know where they hid the ashtray?

[rifleman223]

I installed a 42 pilot jet on mine in order to take out the backfires. Deceleration is very smooth. No popping.

[quam]

Got the factory pro 42's in the mail this Sat.----paid for em on a Thurs. and in the mail box on a Sat., can't beat that for service, I guess I'm gonna pull the Carbs after work today, ....not only that I just found out this Sat that my scooter has 4 plugs, go figure...I've been changin' the 2 I kept seein' on the jugs and someone tpld me that there's 2 up under the tank, no fuckin' way...but sure as shit, 14,000 on half the plugs ...should run even better now....sneaky little pearl harbor shits, does anyone know where they hid the ashtray?
huh? 4 spark plugs??

huh?

[quam]

i'm sure that the 42 pilot helps out a lot, but my shit runs great w/ the stock pilot jets. left the screws where i had em after the holesaw mod, and she's perfect! i might have to turn em out a little once i get my pipes on thurs though.

[mcvierh]

Hey there Mr Quam,
Check it out...as your sitting on your bike just under the left front head(you have to remove the cover, theres a plug....I personally haven't done it yet, and supposedly anothe plug under the right rear head cover as well...yep 4 plugs...follow the HEI leads and their there.....and I believe that the 42 slow jets will keep you from runnin' outa threads once you get your hard Chromes on...so I'm told...its good to hear that the bean box thingy worked ...I'm lookin forward to getting it done , Ride safe. Mel

[quam]

i've just checked my clymer manual and it doesn't say anything about a 3rd/4th plug......

[Twic]

Will this mod void the warranty?

[quam]

Will this mod void the warranty?
gotta cut up the airbox. gotta pull the carbs and change the jet sizes, drill the needle tubes, change the springs, replace the needles themselves. yup, it'll def void the warranty! but it's worth it!
if i were you, i'd wait until after you get the stealer to fix your front end under warranty.

[Twic]

Between the warrenty and the wife it's hard to do what I want!!

[Titanium2006]

Hey Quam, with a stage one Jet kit, V&H Straightshots,KN Filter....do you think Im gonna need to change the needles if I do this mod? I was tempted to start with it this evening but second guessed the needles, maybe get those first?

[quam]

yeah, i'd say def change the needles man. especially if you're gonna remove the baffles from the v&h.
if you leave the stock needles you'll get some hesitation in the mid-throttle range and probably some choppy acceleration throughout the powerband.
the stage one kit is comprehensive. it comes w/ a drill bit to drill the vent hole in the slide chamber, and new lighter springs along w/ the mains and needles. do the whole rejet man....plus if you do the mains, adjust the pilots, and don't change the needles/springs/drill the slide then your plugs could get fouled because you might be rich at one point in the band and lean at another.
that's what i'd say.

[quam]

oh and i went back and re-adjusted my pilots after i synched my carbs.
the rear i turned to 3 1/2 and the front to 3 turns out. she runs great!

[mcvierh]

Jeez frigin kriz...I went through 2/3 weeks of carbs off, carbs on, carbs off, carbs on, started with the 42's for the pilots and the 138-134 combo...rear richer than shit, up with the needle,down with the needle,in withe needle out with the needle, no matter what still rich (this is with the full bean box mod on an SS750) next I went with a factory pro 135-134, stlii rich this time both carbs, next with the dyno jet 134-130 nope, next the 132-130~~~not quite~~~, this time I stayed with 132-130 dyno's and went back to the factory 40 pilot's and OHHHH happy day for the first time since I began this mod I have a steady beat to both cylinders~~~you know that sound we're all hopin' to hear when we fuck with our shit~~~well gents I finally have a smile on my face~~~lesson that I learned boys is that even though all of our bikes (SS750's) engine wise are the same....every single one is unique in it's own way, and what jet set works super for one makes another run like shit, all in all, it's been a really decent learnin' experience for me and if I had to do over again, I'd want to mod the bean box for all the headache's it's the best mod for raw-power at the price...thanks people for all the posts and I hope that the next one of you thinkin' bout that mod and has reservations, let me tell you FUCK the doubts, just do it.

[mcvierh]

Damn Mr Quam, this mod really has been a headache, but the payoff is worth it...by the way did you ever find those lost plugs? Take care, Bro and ride safe...Oh yeah I'm doin a restoration job over in Raleigh off of Buck Jones been there for about 3 weeks now and have about 2 more weeks worth of work left, maybe one day we could get together and just shoot the crap about what life has to offer....and of course about the price of rice in China.

[quam]

hell yeah man! i live maybe a mile from buck jones! i'll pm ya my number. i'm usually free in the evenings, but i def work all day.

[quam]

i wholeheartedly agree that though it's taken some fine tuning (less a headache for me than it was for mcvierh), the bean box mod is def worth the effort (esp for the cost!).
jetting is always gonna be different for every bike because of engine break in and altitude and ambient temp etc.
every bike will have to be fine tuned differently, but (and i think you found this out too, mcvierh) what i wanted to delineate was that the stock 40 pilots are fine for SOME bikes. mine happens to be case in point.

[Big Horn]

i was thinking of going with a tornado air kit, any adverse info from anyone?
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/image_10168_100.jpg (http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=0&Category_ID=86&manufacturer_ID=169&product_ID=10190&sblid_name=Thunder_Manufacturing_Tornado_Air_Kit___Mean_Streak_Vulcan______Classic_Nomad_Fi)
i like the way they look, but do not know if it is as beneficial as beanbox mod or will give same results.

[PatsAce]

From what I understand the bean mod is done to the stock airfilter housing to get the best airflow possible..
I think the Thunder kit will kill it and flow way more air.. Thats the way im heading....

[quam]

yes, the thunder or the hypercharger will give more juice than the bean box mod.

[Twic]

i was thinking of going with a tornado air kit, any adverse info from anyone?
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/image_10168_100.jpg (http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=0&Category_ID=86&manufacturer_ID=169&product_ID=10190&sblid_name=Thunder_Manufacturing_Tornado_Air_Kit___Mean_Streak_Vulcan______Classic_Nomad_Fi)
i like the way they look, but do not know if it is as beneficial as beanbox mod or will give same results.

someone on this site is making one just like the tornado for way less than $230!I can't remember who...but that would be the way to go!You might want to search for who it is.Oh...the tornado would flow alot more air compared to the beanbox!:thumbsup:

[Big Horn]

thanks, will ask around... bad ass look rather than the stock custom plastic.

[ekozy1]

This may be a dumb question, but what happens if I do this mod without changing the filter over to a K&N?

[RAZOR]

This may be a dumb question, but what happens if I do this mod without changing the filter over to a K&N?

Air flow not as good thru a stock air filter..
more recent changing of filter- whereas the KN you just clean..

[ekozy1]

mkay....

[Big Horn]

has anyone fessed up to who was making these on the side? have looked everywhere, cant find a thing.

[~cruisin~]

where do i need to go to get the 42 slows for a dynojet kit? i looked on dynojets sight and i didnt see anything. any help?

[dirtwarrior]

where do i need to go to get the 42 slows for a dynojet kit? i looked on dynojets sight and i didnt see anything. any help?

stock 1100 I think has 42 s on it

[s3v3rth3stars]

i asked this question a couple days ago and had no help.. had to struggle to search and finally found and posted the part number... aint that a bitch

[~cruisin~]

where did you post the part number at? and where is the part number for? (what company)

[s3v3rth3stars]

its in the shadow spirit 750 mods section, part number is for honda aero 1100 #42 jets ill post it here for you.
99103-mt2-0420

they raped me for 18 bucks a pop

[Big Horn]

sounds a bit tempermental?

[~cruisin~]

well i ordered mine today, i must have got a discount.... mine was only 16 and change lol

still high as hell

[TOASTER]

called for jets got 134 138 bean box mod 2 inch pipes no baffles and 42 pilot jet will install next week should be way better i hope!!!

[michael_jnel]

I am getting ready to do this mod. I want to make sure I have the right parts before I ever get started.
1-K&N air filter
1-dynojet stage 1 jet kit
1-d134 jet
1-d138 jet
2-d42 jets.
If anyone can think of anything more or less I need please let me know. The jet kit does not include the 134,138, or 42 jets? Right? Thanx guys.

[michael_jnel]

Why am I a noob again? I have like 50 posts! Oh well.

[TOASTER]

I am getting ready to do this mod. I want to make sure I have the right parts before I ever get started.
1-K&N air filter
1-dynojet stage 1 jet kit
1-d134 jet
1-d138 jet
2-d42 jets.
If anyone can think of anything more or less I need please let me know. The jet kit does not include the 134,138, or 42 jets? Right? Thanx guys.

yes you do ! the carb adjustment is LIKE they said 3on the rear 3and a half turns front .. make sure your needle is on the third slot from the top... if any of this is different for somebody else ok ,, thats mine. thanks to the guys that did the ground work for this!! my bike now well eat on my freinds 883 sporty now! not quite 3/4 throttle 3rd gear bike getting 60or less .. big change try it ... shadowriders.net does it again!!! you guys are the shit!!!

[michael_jnel]

I am about to order the stage 1 kit and was wondering if I am ordering new jets and I own a drill bit set, than what am I actually going to use out of the kit? Will I be paying $75.00 for nothing? Can I order the parts I need individually or a kit off e-bay that is missing the jets that I don't need anyway? Thats just my tight ass wondering how to save a buck or 75.

[Timmy67.5]

You'll be using the springs and needles from the kit. Needles are the most expensive part of a jet kit, and are not sold seperatly like the jets are.

The stage 1 supplies 105-110 jets, you'll need bigger ones for the beanbox mod. Since jets are cheap ($2/ea), you'll be ordering 134/138 seperatly to meet your needs.

Spend the $75, you'll need the new thinner and more tapered needles and springs to maximize throttle response.

[1blackz28]

Just FYI for anyone doing this mod here are my settings

Location Huber Heights OH about 1000 ft above sea level
SS750
Bean Box mod with a K&N
Custom made short turndown pipes by oomp with torque cones welded in
Factory Pro Jet kit Factorypro <--for the people who search it without using spaces
#42 pilot about 2.75 turns rear, 2.5 turns front
Needles set on 4th notch
#132 front #135 rear.

This was done in 70 degree weather with low humidity. Part throttle and WOT were checked with a WB 02. The mains almost hit the lean side right before redline so I may swap them out but as of now it runs great.

[michael_jnel]

Are these the slowes i need for my 06 spirit 750? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-NOS-Slow-Jet-Honda-CBR-1000-1100-NT-600-VT-XL_W0QQitemZ120100857525QQcmdZViewItem Thanx guys.

[wissco750]

Hey, noob here. I am trying to install the jet kit on my ss750. I labeled all the hoses and when I tryed to remove the carb one popped off and I can't quite locate where the other end connected to. There wasn't a clamp on it. It's on the top right side (looking from behind) connected to a "T". I ordered a clymer, but any advice would help! :madani: Thanx

[Descending Spirit]

Don't know if it will help but try the bike discussions thread , microfiche ,in the sticky's . And by the way FUCKOFFNEWBIE!!!and welcome to the gang!!!

[Titanium2006]

piss off spammer

[Farther]

I have done a search with very little gained. I have a stock '08 SS 750 C2 with a single carb and am considering this Bean Box mod. It looks like the Bean Box mod is the same as a Stage 2 mod as discribed in this Dynojet literature. http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/installguides/DJ-1195.pdf What I have not found is how this modification effect fuel use over the RPM range. I would think that if your riding style does not change that your fuel milage would probably have little to no change at lower RPMs and increase in the higher RPM range when on long trips.

Does anybody have any real world experience that they are willing to share? I am particularlly interested in fuel consumption with just the Bean Box mod and the Bean Box mod with free flow aftermarket exhauste such as V&H Straight Shots. Please advise.

[Farther]

Btt!!

[mcvierh]

I did not have any appreciable fuel drop with the BB mod......at 65MPH, aprox 62 miles per gallon, 70 MPH aprox 54 miles per, at 75MPH about 42 miles per......

[Farther]

Hey McVierh: Your're getting some serious fuel milage at 65 mph. The best I have gotten is 54 mpg @ about 55 mph. Thanks for the information.

[mcvierh]

I might add that I also have the 39 tooth rear sprocket along with the BB Mod....

[Farther]

That is a good reason for the SS750 to come with a 6 speed.

[ChristianRath]

I just did the mod to my 07 Spirit C2 that already has a Stage 1 DynoJet kit and Cobra pipes with half baffles. Anyone done this on their 07+? My bike only has one carb from the factory, and I think the older ones had two. Any suggestions, or can anyone speak from experience?

Wondering what anyone can suggests for jets?

[jentzschman]

The links on the first page do not work......

[750SpiritRdr]

The links on the first page do not work......
here you go - http://whytlash.powweb.com/

[750SpiritRdr]

Finished the BB mod today, runs so much better, better throttle responce. Still need to tweak it a bit but for now it runs good. rinning a LITTLE rich in the front but the rear plugs look great. Would the mixture screw help at all for the front?

[billace]

the best thing to do is the plug chop test. that will pinpoint exactly where you are running lean. just my .02

[750SpiritRdr]

the best thing to do is the plug chop test. that will pinpoint exactly where you are running lean. just my .02
did that, rear looks good, nice and tan/brown. Front is darker...not oil black but almost black and dry. does that make sense?

[billace]

makes sense on the plug color. where are you running rich then? idle, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, full throttle? wherever you are rich at will tell you what to tweak.

[750SpiritRdr]

makes sense on the plug color. where are you running rich then? idle, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, full throttle? wherever you are rich at will tell you what to tweak.
idle for the most part...i'm going to get some new plugs and try it doing 65mph then kill it.
figure if i can get it good at the speed i drive to work i'll be good. i don't go wot much or just sit in one spot except red lights

[billace]

you might try leaning out the a/f mixture just a tad and see what it does.

[750SpiritRdr]

i'll adjust them tomorrow and see what happens.

[northern01]

Are their new links for this mod? Both are dead.

[Descending Spirit]

Here ya go dude , just click on mods
http://whytlash.powweb.com/

[northern01]

Here ya go dude , just click on mods
http://whytlash.powweb.com/

Thats for a ACE 750 I have a VT 750 DC. Same mod?

[Descending Spirit]

Yeah same mods, I believe so anyways

[750SpiritRdr]

Thats for a ACE 750 I have a VT 750 DC. Same mod?
yep, same mod

[wodahSSpirit]

links wont work for me? can someone post link for this mod please

[GigaS27]

fucking noob, read a page back and the new link is posted there. Also use the search above you LAZYPIECEOFSHITNOOBFUCK

[919jackass]

git'em Giga

[Twjohn16]

ok, evidently I am completely fucking stupis because I have spent the better part of an hour searching over on sa750 for this mod and cant find it. Is there another detailed thread???

[750SpiritRdr]

http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beansairbox.htm

here u go.

[Twjohn16]

damn you are the man. I was getting so tired of reading shit I wasnt looking for. Thanks

[mag246]

anybody got pictures of the bean box design? The links in the first posting won't work.

[mag246]

anybody got pics of this mod? The links in the first post aren't working.

[billace]

anybody got pics of this mod? The links in the first post aren't working.just look up a few posts and follow that link noob

[Descending Spirit]

Look "UP" three posts noob ,Hello ,is there anybody in there?

[750SpiritRdr]

fuckin noob...READ SOME POST. it's not like you even have to read all 12 pages...just this one.

[C0nman20]

I just installed my Vance and Hines today, and they didn't line up just right, any tips. Also how do you know that the pipes are all the way in ( nickel for everytime a gril said that to me). Im Just not sure if the crushed the gaskets like they are supposed to.
Alright Last item. Does the 2007 Honda Shadow Spirit C2 have a snorkel in the air box? Oh and I will save you the time
"Fuck off NOOB"

[american bad ass]

Does anyone have an updated link for the Bean box mod? none of these work!!

[750SpiritRdr]

Post #115 on page 12... you really need to try and read these post a little more. NOOB!!

[american bad ass]

Tried it and it won't open!!

[750SpiritRdr]

Tried it and it won't open!!
are you on a work computer? the link works just fine...no one else has had problems with it.

[american bad ass]

Yep,that must be the problamo!!
thanks from a noob!!

[deathGrip]

i drilled the shit out of my snorkle and cut some holes in the baffles inside the air box, seems to be the same deal here..

[mcvierh]

Here ya go the original BB mod in picture form........no more opening links.
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=1 width="95%"><TBODY><TR><TD bgColor=#c0c0c0 width="100%">Beans Stock Air Box Mod



</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Pictures and Text provided by Greg (Forum member BEAN210)
<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=1 borderColor=#c0c0c0 width="80%"><TBODY><TR><TD>So, you want to improve the performance of your 750, but don't have $200 to drop on a Thunder Air Kit? If so, this mod is an inexpensive and very effective solution. </TD></TR><TR><TD>Here is the list of goods you will need for this mod:
1. Previously re-jetted and re-piped 750
2. Replacement K & N filter element for the 750(PN# KNF-HA-7500 $38.50)
3. D134(front) and D138(rear) main jets available from Dynojet @ (800)992-4993, Some have had to buy a range of jets from 124-138 and it,s a good idea to change the slow jets to a 42.
4. Dremel tool with grinding & cutting bits, or a sharp knife and sand paper



</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>





<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=1 borderColor=#c0c0c0 width="80%"><TBODY><TR><TD>The first step in this process is to remove the stock air box from your 750. </TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 1 shows the stock air box with the snorkel and cover still attached, right off the bike



</TD></TR><TR><TD>



Diagram 1 http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0001.jpg






</TD></TR><CENTER><TR><TD>Diagram 2 shows the airbox in stock configuration. The snorkel is still in place.



</TD></TR></CENTER><TR><TD>Diagram 2







<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0002.jpg
</CENTER>


</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 3 shows the snorkel removed (it simply pops out)






</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 3







<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0003.jpg
</CENTER>


</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 4 is the opening created by removing the snorkel. Some people have done no further modification to the box, installed 128(rear)/124(front) jets along with a Dynojet Jet Kit (required for the new slimmer needles), and had good results. Since were going to open up the carbs, lets get all the power/air we can! </TD></TR><TR><TD>
Diagram 4



<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0004.jpg </CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 5 shows the pattern scribed into the air box. This raised rib is the pattern to follow when marking inside of this rib between 1/8" and 1/4". The accuracy of this is not critical, as the base of the filter will actually become the new opening.



</TD></TR><TR><TD>
Diagram 5



<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0005.jpg </CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 6 shows the Dremel bit I used. You can also use a good sharp utility knife, making small cuts and get the same results. BE CAREFUL.



</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 6







<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0006.jpg
</CENTER>


</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 7 shows the new opening. Think of the original opening in the snorkel (appr. 1"x1"). The new opening is 6-8 times the original size!






</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 7







<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0007.jpg
</CENTER>


</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram's 8 -9-10 shows the final sanding and cleanup of the filter. Diagram 8 is a picture of the Dremel bit used for cleanup.



</TD></TR><TR><TD>
Diagram 8



<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0008.jpg</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>
Diagram 9



<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0009.jpg </CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>

Diagram10 <CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0010.jpg</CENTER>




</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagrams 11, 12 & 13 show the areas that I removed after I put the modified air box back on the bike and noticed how obstructive they were. All you need is a sharp knife to score one side, wiggling back and forth until pieces snap off.
After removing the exterior obstructions, clean and sand any little slivers or loose plastic that may break off later and enter the engine or filter. Now is a good time to give the air box a hot bath. Clean all debris and dry with paper towels.



</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[mcvierh]

<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=1 borderColor=#c0c0c0 width="80%"><TBODY><TR><TD>
Diagram 11


<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0011.jpg</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 12





<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0012.jpg </CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 13



<CENTER>http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0013.jpg </CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 14 shows the filter in its new home. Notice that the stock filter opening is slightly smaller than the modified air box opening. Not a problem. The K & N filter opening is larger than stock and can actually be trimmed (it has a rubber base) to fit the opening perfectly-which I did. </TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 14
http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0014.jpg






</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 15 shows the filter in place. I drilled two 1/8" holes and installed screws to hold the filter in place. This is important because the portion of the air box that held the filter in place has been removed. Actually, the cover holds the filter in place, the screws just position it until you can get the cover on. If you have the K & N filter, you can use two 1/8" x 1/2" long rivets. This allows you to slide the rubber-based filter on and off the rivets and not have to remove the air box to clean the filter. </TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 15
http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0015.jpg






</TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 16 shows the finished product, ready to mount back on the bike. </TD></TR><TR><TD>Diagram 16
http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beans%20airbox%20mod0016.jpg






</TD></TR><TR><TD>After completing this mod, rejetting with the D134(front) and D138(rear) is a MUST., Or smaller depending on your conditions. I had to jet to 126-128 with the 42 slows. A few more suggestions:
1. I used the above jetting and the bike is running very well.
2. Make sure to adjust the air mixture screws, mine are turned out to 3 1/4 turns.
3. After all this modification and wrenching, I suggest getting the carbs synched.
4. I strongly suggest the k&n filter. I have no experience with the UNI filter and for that reason only can't recommend it. Toddo is going to use the UNI filter and post his results.


</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[deathGrip]

I just installed my Vance and Hines today, and they didn't line up just right, any tips. Also how do you know that the pipes are all the way in ( nickel for everytime a gril said that to me). Im Just not sure if the crushed the gaskets like they are supposed to.
Alright Last item. Does the 2007 Honda Shadow Spirit C2 have a snorkel in the air box? Oh and I will save you the time
"Fuck off NOOB"

i had the same issue with my front pipe...the ring between the flange and the end of the pipe should seat tight against the block.. ( mine was not and i have a slight leak with new crsh gasket ) .i have some pictures of what i sent to v & h...contact josh bullrice - jbulrice@vanceandhines.com

[deathGrip]

i cant figure out how to get URLs in for pictures, (noobbie boobie) but i could email them to you CONMAN20... i took pictures of my entire tear down and set up for new pipes and jet kit, then took pictures of the pipe not fitting up.

one way to tell is if the flange on the pipe begins to bend from tightning the acorn nuts, you know that gasket is crushed. I bought several sets of gaskets and had to remove the pipe and look to see if the crush gasket did its job, then replaced it..throwing 2$ away but worth it.. clean around the exhaust port really well, fire the bike up and ride for 20 or so, then take a look around the exhaust port/ pipe end and look for black/brown discoloration, if you got that, you got a leak...the pipe end bevel may be off ( this was the issue with mine, thus not seating properly in the exhaust port and giving me some pop pop .....pop...pop.. )

[deathGrip]

I just installed my Vance and Hines today, and they didn't line up just right, any tips. Also how do you know that the pipes are all the way in ( nickel for everytime a gril said that to me). Im Just not sure if the crushed the gaskets like they are supposed to.
Alright Last item. Does the 2007 Honda Shadow Spirit C2 have a snorkel in the air box? Oh and I will save you the time
"Fuck off NOOB"

check out my pic gallery, i added one of my pipe not fitting up right, pointed out with a screwdriver...you can even see a bit of black/brown leak on the right side of the port, where honda has that "chip" out of the port..looks like a defective mold, but for some reason is supposed to be there..

if yours looks like mine, take pictures and email Josh at vance and hines..he will get you back on the road.

[jentzschman]

I have a question:

I live in Utah, about 4k feet elevation. I am pretty sure my jets are set, factory, for sea level. I am the original owner of a 08 C2 750.

If I do the BB mod, will I need to re jet? If I am running rich now, which I assume, then the BB mod will allow more air and lean out the mixture.

Thanks.

[mcvierh]

^^^There is no fucking way that you've read anything that has been posted on this forum that has to do with the BB Mod and rejetting, no way!!! How do I know you've not read a single fucking thing, 'cause if you had, you wouldn't have asked that dumb assed Noob question, thats how I know., even if you were in Napal, you'd know to re jet once you've done the BB Mod if you'd read a single thing here.

[deathGrip]

I hear mixed reviews on re-jetting. Pisses me off, everyone has a different opinion. Some say re-jet with pipes a must, some say not, only if you have k & n..you know what I say? Re-jet if you wash your bike!

[Taco_Lad]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/Malmer/noir.jpg
Not exactly tits, but a nice ass, on a bike, no less.


Ok, so has anyone tried this with an EFI bike?

Because I'm not gonna be able to re-jet this as per instructions. I know the stock ECU can probably handle 20% up or down from stock fuel delivery, but if this opens the throat up more than that, I'm gonna need a power commander, which is $$$.

[deathGrip]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/Malmer/noir.jpg
Not exactly tits, but a nice ass, on a bike, no less.


Ok, so has anyone tried this with an EFI bike?

Because I'm not gonna be able to re-jet this as per instructions. I know the stock ECU can probably handle 20% up or down from stock fuel delivery, but if this opens the throat up more than that, I'm gonna need a power commander, which is $$$.


EFI, what are you a hippie??! :)

[mcvierh]

Yeah Taco your going to need a power commander (remap).

[deathGrip]

www.dennisKirk (http://www.dennisKirk) has um pretty cheap..

[Zilli]

OK boys, bit of a stupid noob question, but is there any way to get the stock resonator that sits under the tank off without removing the tank, its an 07 750 spirit EFI model...

just spent ages getting the screw from the resonator peice off the actual airbox... not looking forward to the task of putting it back on

[Zilli]

disregard the above boys! i moved the tank!

[CrzyJoey]

YOU JUST VOIDED THE WARRANTY!!!!

POST SOME PICS NOOB!!!!

http://holycrapthatsfunny.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/tits-or-gtfo.jpg

[kreegman17]

Is anyone else having problems with the links?! Keep getting some search page...

[Possum]

I have read everything that I have been able to find on this matter and my eyes are crossed and I still have no clue. I want to chop my stock pipes and put turn down tips on and do the BB mod. I am really confused as to where to start with the carbs.I am at a real loss and any help would be great. I have an 06 750 DC. The only performance type mod has been hole saw mod.

[SPyKER]

Anyone opened up the cover itself for more air? I want to try, but I'm having trouble finding a pre-owned one. New ones run $70 and that's way to expensive to test with.

[lifeofchaos13]

http://www.sa750.com/tech/airbox.htm


http://www.sa750.com/airboxmod/beansairbox.htm

These links are no good anymore. Anyone got some new ones that describe just what the bean box mod is so that I dont have to ask a redundant NOOB question?

[DanK]

mcvierh cut and posted all of it on page 13 of this thread.

[lifeofchaos13]

mcvierh cut and posted all of it on page 13 of this thread.

thanks man I guess I just boned out. Thought I had seen all the pages...

[Wizersoft]

?

[lifeofchaos13]

?

Looks like the pics in the page 13 thread are not loading anymore but the instructions are still there. Even the page off vt750dc.com is bad now http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beansairbox.htm

I'll do some searching today see if I can find another instruction post somewhere.

EDIT: I found this for the ACE but this is different than the one that was posted here, as this guy is not getting completely rid of the snorkel. http://www.750ace.com/mod_12.phtml and this has to do with the jetting.

I will be doing this mod soon myself and can try and make a walkthrough, got my HA-7500 filter in the mail yesterday.

[Taco_Lad]

The HA-7504 is a perfect fit for the '08 Shadow 750. No need to screw/cut anything. Remove snorkel, add K&N. The airbox cover holds it on, no worries.

If you want to remove the extra baffles, cut em out with a dremel and you MAY want to leave a small bit to help seat the K&N while you put the airbox cover back on, but it isn't really necessary.
Intake roar is go.

[fkizdi]

does anyone know if there is a video online somewhere of the procedure?

[woodytick]

does anyone know if there is a video online somewhere of the procedure?


not that i am aware of, but no worries since you dont have a bike... NO PICS = NO BIKE!!!

NOW FUCKOFFNOOBWITHNOVIDEO!!!

welcome to the nuthouse, grow some thick skin and stick around you might learn something.

[fkizdi]

wow
sounds like a nice forum for me to gain a lot of knowledge from well educated people

[BikerMike]

wow
sounds like a nice forum for me to gain a lot of knowledge from well educated people

Do I detect a bit of sarcasm fron the Noob?

[CrzyJoey]

its all about a little shadowy love... :)

[nova69400]

depends on what you mean buy well educated...prolly not a lot of college credits floating around here.

Some assholes around here and some nice guys.

A lot of guys like me, grew up building and fabbing parts, others have learned from basically no knowledge at all

The info is here for the taking, if you can wade thru the bs and the hazing

[woodytick]

wow
sounds like a nice forum for me to gain a lot of knowledge from well educated people


this is a nice forum and you will gain a ton of knowledge about your bike & McV has forgotten more about his bike then most of us will ever know. so grow some thick skin, stick around and you will be amazed at what you will learn. but until you get 50 posts, you are a FUCKINGNOOBTARD&WILLBETREATEDASSUCH....:grin:

welcome to the ride!

[fkizdi]

noob on this forum doesnt mean noob to shadows or noob to forum etiquette.
so gofuckyourselfandtellyourwifetostretchnexttime i hate it when she cramps up.

[BikerMike]

noob on this forum doesnt mean noob to shadows or noob to forum etiquette.
so gofuckyourselfandtellyourwifetostretchnexttime i hate it when she cramps up.

Good job Noob!

[HitCat44]

Tolerate & Ignore :thumbsup:

Way to stand by and side with the "New-Comer" (nee... NoobTards) there B.M.
Truly an Example to us all. Can Ya FEEL the Love Brothers :grin:

In keeping with the New Age of Harmonic Discourse, You don't need a video Mr. fkizdi Sir...:no:
I'm sure nova would be more than happy to share and advise us all on this topic given his vast knowledge & skills. That combined with your numerous collegiate credit hours, superior intellect, and plethera of Shadow experience should render the issue forever obsolete.
This is truly a Treat and I for one am so Damned honored to be right here right now to witness this Renaissance.

[mcvierh]

Y'all just can't get along now, can ya? Gotta love the kinda guy who'll say "Boo" for the underdog ya know.
At any rate when I go to page 13 I see all of the pictures, could this be because I originally posted it? Naw......

[Wizersoft]

Y'all just can't get along now, can ya? Gotta love the kinda guy who'll say "Boo" for the underdog ya know.
At any rate when I go to page 13 I see all of the pictures, could this be because I originally posted it? Naw......

They work for me as well there McV.

[nei10]

noob on this forum doesnt mean noob to shadows or noob to forum etiquette.
so gofuckyourselfandtellyourwifetostretchnexttime i hate it when she cramps up.

so noob.... if you're not new to Shadows, then why the FUCK do you need a video or a procedure on how to do the mod?

Looks like you fucked yourself noob.

[GilesShadow]

I know that this is a noob question but what is the best way to check to see if you are running rich or lean after rejetting?

[TI 3VOM]

Check the plugs.


<TABLE border=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=center width="50%">The left plug in the photo is white indicating that associated carb is set too lean. The right plug is black indicating the associated car is set too rich.

</TD><TD width="50%">http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsIII/Plugs1.jpg</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE border=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="50%">The brownish color over the tip and part of the center porcelain on the left plug indicates a carb with proper mixture. The uniform more whitish color of the right plug indicates a carb that the mixture is still a little lean. </TD><TD width="50%">http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsIII/Plugs2.jpg</TD></TR><TR><TD width="50%">Two plugs with the brownish color indicating carbs with a properly adjusted mixture. All the plugs shown are Champion N12Cs. </TD><TD width="50%">http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsIII/Plugs3.JPG</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[GilesShadow]

sweet thanks TI, side question the Champion N12C, is that the plugs that are in it?

[TI 3VOM]

No, that is just the plugs used for test pictures. Use whatever your bike calls for.

[JayT]

NGK Iridium plugs!

[sn95_331_gt_ yellow]

dont know if anyones posted one way or another, but i have a UNI filter on my bike and the aforementioned jetting specs did the trick, so it seems to be just as good as the K&N...

about to pull the plugs here soon when i change the oil and ill take another look at them...

[bigdavy_p]

Is there a different write-up for the C2 or is it the same procedure?

[mcvierh]

Is there a different write-up for the C2 or is it the same procedure?
same.......

[RBinTEX]

same.......

There are some small differences.... the K&N filter fits without carving out the opening just remove the snorkel and throw away.

There are vanes inside the housing that should NOT be removed they help with air flow to the intake to keep it from turbulence once it is inside the housing.

The option to remove the rain guard on the outside front of the housing is a toss up if you live in Texas you could probably get by with it.

If you live in Washington state where it rains everyday, I would leave it on! :grin:

But either way it doesn't seem to be that much in the way of air flow to the filter as it is wide open all around once the two large pieces that make up the snorkel are gone!

I do have a small amount of a hollow "flutter" sound on de-acceleration that may be caused from the rain guard, but that is just a guess. ???

The intake sound is awesome!:thumbsup:

Oh by the way the fuel management unit is needed, I used the one from Cobra.
Lot's of experimenting with it shows that Cobra's settings of 2-5-0 are the best for my Phantom.

No V&H short shots yet but the muffler plates have been liberally drilled.
I may have to adjust more after the Short Shots are installed!

[mcvierh]

There are some small differences.... the K&N filter fits without carving out the opening just remove the snorkel and throw away.

There are vanes inside the housing that should NOT be removed they help with air flow to the intake to keep it from turbulence once it is inside the housing.

The option to remove the rain guard on the outside front of the housing is a toss up if you live in Texas you could probably get by with it.

If you live in Washington state where it rains everyday, I would leave it on! :grin:

But either way it doesn't seem to be that much in the way of air flow to the filter as it is wide open all around once the two large pieces that make up the snorkel are gone!

I do have a small amount of a hollow "flutter" sound on de-acceleration that may be caused from the rain guard, but that is just a guess. ???

The intake sound is awesome!:thumbsup:

Oh by the way the fuel management unit is needed, I used the one from Cobra.
Lot's of experimenting with it shows that Cobra's settings of 2-5-0 are the best for my Phantom.

No V&H short shots yet but the muffler plates have been liberally drilled.
I may have to adjust more after the Short Shots are installed!


I just looked at the C2 and DC filter to back plate to snorkle....you'll get a lot more air intake if you do more that just remove the snorkle (thats known as the snorkle mod and not the Bean Box mod), the Bean Box mod is in fact modifing the Bean Box and not just removing the snorkle, which in and of itself does not modify the bean box (hence the name of the mod i.e. "Bean Box Mod"), So again if you cut the rear of the bean box to the diameter of the Filter you will let in a shit load more air that if you just remove the snorkle.

[RBinTEX]

I just looked at the C2 and DC filter to back plate to snorkle....you'll get a lot more air intake if you do more that just remove the snorkle (thats known as the snorkle mod and not the Bean Box mod), the Bean Box mod is in fact modifing the Bean Box and not just removing the snorkle, which in and of itself does not modify the bean box (hence the name of the mod i.e. "Bean Box Mod"), So again if you cut the rear of the bean box to the diameter of the Filter you will let in a shit load more air that if you just remove the snorkle.

I'm sorry to disagree with you about the air box.

Please know I mean NO disrespect at all!

The original question was"Is there a different write-up for the C2 or is it the same procedure?"

And you answered "............same"

My air box using the K&N air filter needed no cutting to the hole in the air box to make the air filter fit the hole there is less than a 1/16th of an inch of air box difference in the air box hole and the hole in the K&N!

So respectfully my answer was it isn't the same kind of mod and there should be a different write-up for the C2 air box!:grin:

I went on to explain how I did mine!

I used the HA 7504 filter!

Yes, I realize that is less than a square inch of area measuring around the hole but is a near perfect fit.
There is a rain guard that could be removed but there is nothiing but open around the hole on three sides.
I can't imagine the rain guard might be a problem to air flow. ????

Should I remove it?

The baffles inside the air box are for air turbulence and ease of flow inside the box and I really do hesitate to remove them because of the fuel injection.

Anyway....that's why I said there was some differences in the size, shape and configuration of the two styles of air boxes and all the cutting required to make the air box "fit the K&N filter" was almost completely unnecessary on the C2 Phantom air box.

I didn't have to cut the air box to make the air filter fit, it fit!

Just removal of the two piece snorkel and installing the air filter accomplished everything that the bean box mod did for the DC version.

I admit that the 1/16th of an inch could be removed and would/could improve air flow a small amount, but I don't think it would be a shit load as you suggested!

After seeing the fit when I installed the filter I made the judgment call at that time cutting it out any more would render next to nothing in air flow gain it was so close and such a small amount.

There would be no where near the same amount of air box opening removed on the C2 than there was in the Bean Box mod pictures that I looked at.

I would hate to have to remove the tank, remove the air box and take pictures, but would be glad to do it if it was important.

Could you have mistaken the C2 air box for another one when you looked?

Or is the fuel injected air box different?










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[mcvierh]

I was looking at the Spirit C2.....but even the airbox/snorkle for the Phantom C2 looked pretty much the same. But I wasn't looking at the housing in real life, I was looking at a microfiche. Since you've had the housing in your hand and could clearly see the difference, I have to defer to your real life visual. I suppose then that there wouldn't be a Bean Box Mod for the C2, just the snorkle removal.
Sorry BigDavy, guess there isn't a BB mod for the C2.

[RBinTEX]

I was looking at the Spirit C2.....but even the airbox/snorkle for the Phantom C2 looked pretty much the same. But I wasn't looking at the housing in real life, I was looking at a microfiche. Since you've had the housing in your hand and could clearly see the difference, I have to defer to your real life visual. I suppose then that there wouldn't be a Bean Box Mod for the C2, just the snorkle removal.
Sorry BigDavy, guess there isn't a BB mod for the C2.
Don't give up on yourself yet Mcvierh, I have been proved wrong before. :dunce:

Maybe there is a difference in the fuel injected air box?

This weekend I will take apart again, it's not hard to do, and take a few pictures and measurements to confirm for the record.

[RBinTEX]

Don't give up on yourself yet Mcvierh, I have been proved wrong before. :dunce:

Maybe there is a difference in the fuel injected air box?

This weekend I will take apart again, it's not hard to do, and take a few pictures and measurements to confirm for the record.


OK Mcvierh I guess I owe you a profuse apology along with others that read my mail.


From the outside looking in there appears to be about an 1/8 of an inch instead of the 1/16ths of an inch I posted.

The filter opening is quite a bit smaller than the off set compression ring around the base that seals the filter to the body of the and when installed compresses and make it appear AND feel like it is much smaller.

So I proceeded to remove plastic from the inside ring of the housing which was about a 3/8ths of an inch around the opening.

The base of the filter is very wide and the opening when I removed the 3/8ths inch caused the opening in the housing to be larger than the filter opening.

The filter now sticks out over the hole I cut quite a bit all the way around, but as I said the filter base is pretty wide and there is no danger of it falling out.

The inside of the housing is built MUCH different than the pictures shown in the Bean Box Mod pictures.
The filter is held in very well all the way around.

So the opening in the housing is much larger than the filter opening now and it DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE in the way it ran last night.

Even though the amount was small in comparison to the amount in the original Bean Box Mod it is well worth cutting the extra out.

I did some very careful measurements on the filter and the hole left when the snorkel was removed.


ON my measurements the inside width of the snorkel was over an inch smaller than the opening left when it was removed.
So removing the snorkel alone will reap many benefits.

The opening of the uncut hole in the housing was !/2 inch smaller (1/4 inch all around) than the opening in the filter.

I cut out about 3/8ths of an inch of the housing indicated by a ring inside the housing and now the housing hole is larger than the filter hole by less than 1/4 inch all the way around.

Every thing is different inside and out on the C2 housing but the mod does need to be done to gain the maximum.

Yo da man McVierh!!!!!:thumbsup:
Never thought the small amount would make that amount of difference.

I guess I should have listen to you to start with! (I'm a dunce, head hung in shame):toilet:

Only 3 pictures were taken of the filter measurements before the camera batteries failed so no other pictures were taken of my procedure but my facts are right.

The cut to the C2 filter housing is much smaller than the cuts made to the other Bean Box Mod, but very important!!!

Pictures in the next post!

[mcvierh]

OK BigDavy, it's on again, BB Mod for the C2 is the same as for the SS, as per RB's re-evaluation of the "hole" situation. Yeah, when it comes to letting in more air, 1/4-3/8" all the way around is a whole lot more air/and whole lot more power, in all truth, doing the BB Mod along with quality after market pipes will in and of itself add anywhere from 9-15 HP to our small bore engines.........
RB you don't owe me an apology, I never felt slighted in the least by you. But since you did apologize, I most gracious accept.

[RBinTEX]

I never felt slighted in the least by you. But since you did apologize, I most gracious accept.

Thank You! :thumbsup:

[snakeeyes]

Has anyone mentioned that the instruction websites for the bean box mod posted on page 1 are no longer available? Anywhere I can find them? I have had this on my to-do-list and checked back in to examine the instructions and the websites are moved. Thanks.

[ohyeahfriday]

Me thinks you didn't read the whole thread.



mcvierh cut and posted all of it on page 13 of this thread.

Looks like the pics in the page 13 thread are not loading anymore but the instructions are still there. Even the page off vt750dc.com is bad now http://whytlash.powweb.com/airboxmod/beansairbox.htm

I'll do some searching today see if I can find another instruction post somewhere.

EDIT: I found this for the ACE but this is different than the one that was posted here, as this guy is not getting completely rid of the snorkel. http://www.750ace.com/mod_12.phtml and this has to do with the jetting.

I will be doing this mod soon myself and can try and make a walkthrough, got my HA-7500 filter in the mail yesterday.

[snakeeyes]

Me thinks you didn't read the whole thread.

ha, thanks man. No, I did not read through the whole thread. I read a few pages then skipped around. Too large of a thread!

[ohyeahfriday]

HAHA No shit right, good thing for slow days at work to get caught up on reading... At least the Bean Box thread isn't as long as the "Lower your bike" one. Still working on that sucker

[Cruffler]

BTW, What ever happened to AirportFF?

[ohyeahfriday]

BTW, What ever happened to AirportFF?

IDK, info says he was active in February of this year, but not showing any posts since '08 :huh:
I also just realized he is from Milford, PA when I looked at his profile. I drive through that town 5 days a week.

[snakeeyes]

Well I did the first portion of the bean box mod. Basically just took out the snorkel. Still stock air filter. Running a DynoJet kit. I don't think I noticed any significant difference (Wanted to remove the snorkel and not do the full mod to make sure bike ran OK with a little more air flow). I feel like the bike sounds better but it's running like a top. I just runs absolutely perfect. I need to buy a K&N and cut the hole bigger. I'm sure I will actually feel a difference then, and I doubt I will have to adjust my carbs that much. Hopefully it makes a big difference. Other than that, I should of removed the snorkel years ago, if anything, I am sure that helps a little.

[Cruffler]

Weird, He was a badass at one time & just vanished!

[snakeeyes]

Going to pick up a K&N. Going to try Auto Zone. Have you guys been able to pick your bike filters up at auto parts stores or do they normally gotta order them in?

Right now I am running a stage 1 dynojet, cobra pipes W/BCT's, and the snorkel removed. It still runs absolutely perfect with the snorkel removed. I figure I will drop the K&N in and see how it runs. If it runs ok, I will then cut the opening to the full Bean Box specs...this looks like it's only going to open the hole about a 0.5" diameter, so it isnt that much more. I am guessing this is where I will feel the difference. If it then runs like shit with just that little bit of cutting, will need to do more work with the carbs. I assume I should be okay with just the filter and cutting.

[ohyeahfriday]

I just removed the snorkel on mine and am running the stock filter as well, but I haven't ridden since last fall so I have no idea if it feels any different...

I tend to go against the code of buy local and order almost all of my filters and maintenance stuff for my bike and quads online. I would at least call out to the store before you go out and they don't have it. At least you could tell them to order it for you before you spend the time going out there. I also tend to buy stuff before I need it so waiting on shipping is not an issue.

If Airport still has the yellow Magna I will keep an eye out for him in town, but no guarantees on catching up with him in person.

[snakeeyes]

Yeah, I am sure I can get the K&N at the local honda powersports store near me, but they are always way too expensive. For some reason I thought I was told to check Auto Zone...but I would think they would not carry bike filters.

I checked online too. I see them really overpriced right now. From my research on here it should be around $38, not $50, $60 +

[ohyeahfriday]

SHIT, that is not so cool. Keep in mind there probably has been some inflation, but hopefully someplace has them at a better price. We are still looking at the K&N P/N KNF-HA-7504 right? I'll do some snooping around as well but everything I am seeing so far is $65 or so.

[lifeofchaos13]

I have a brand new one for sale for the DC for $40

http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21716

[snakeeyes]

I have a brand new one for sale for the DC for $40

http://www.shadowriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21716

Wow $40 bucks shipped??? Then you gotta deal.

[snakeeyes]

Cool. SO guys I finally did this mod. I still did it with the OEM filter. I am waiting for the K&N I just bought from LOC. I was very skeptical about this mod, and let me say, with just the OEM, I feel smooth power through the gears that is a bit more predominate than before.

I was wondering with you guys, The one thing I was not expecting, was better sound. Not from the intake...no sucking sound, but I swear, my pipes sound a TON better since opening the intake up. I doubt it is in my mind because I wasn't expecting this change. Did you guys with good pipes notice a nicer, crisper, higher quality sound when slamming through the gears after this mod? I like it! Exhaust just sounds so much better and it already sounded great before. Didn't know it can get better...

[snakeeyes]

maybe not?

[ITC(EXW)]

Yes, you are moving more air - it affects the exhaust note, I noticed it to. Think of your engine as an air pump - you just increased the flow in to match the capacity of your aftermarket exhaust. With the K&N in, you'll run leaner than with the stock filter. It's called "high flow" for a reason. As long as you've got 138 or better jets in there, you should be fine, but I would do some plug checks at various points through the power spectrum to make sure.

The mods you've just done and the 4* mod really made my Shadow come alive. Enjoy!

[snakeeyes]

Yes, you are moving more air - it affects the exhaust note, I noticed it to. Think of your engine as an air pump - you just increased the flow in to match the capacity of your aftermarket exhaust. With the K&N in, you'll run leaner than with the stock filter. It's called "high flow" for a reason. As long as you've got 138 or better jets in there, you should be fine, but I would do some plug checks at various points through the power spectrum to make sure.

The mods you've just done and the 4* mod really made my Shadow come alive. Enjoy!

Cool, I just wanted to make sure I was really noticing a difference and not going crazy. Bike sounds so much better. Pulls hard.

[ITC(EXW)]

Have you done the timing mod yet? If not, dive in there and take care of that, add the barrett clutch springs while you're at it. If you don't want to fight with wierd angles, pick up a new set of exhaust gaskets and take off your pipes to do the work. You can do it without removing them (I did it that way) but you'll probably wish you had removed them by the time you're done. (I did!)

Totally worth it.

By the way, love your scoot, pipes look awesome, and it the rear fender/removed front fender look great.

[snakeeyes]

Have you done the timing mod yet? If not, dive in there and take care of that, add the barrett clutch springs while you're at it. If you don't want to fight with wierd angles, pick up a new set of exhaust gaskets and take off your pipes to do the work. You can do it without removing them (I did it that way) but you'll probably wish you had removed them by the time you're done. (I did!)

Totally worth it.

By the way, love your scoot, pipes look awesome, and it the rear fender/removed front fender look great.

Hey thanks man. No I have not done the 4* timing mod. I did read the thread a while ago and went through the instructions. It seemed pretty damn tedious....now thinking about it, I really don't even remember what it does... ha

I am just now getting into performance mods though. I was all about aesthetics for the past few years....I thought it was pointless for a while to try and get more juice out of a 750 but I am slowing being proven wrong just by doing the bean box.

[ITC(EXW)]

Hey thanks man. No I have not done the 4* timing mod. I did read the thread a while ago and went through the instructions. It seemed pretty damn tedious....now thinking about it, I really don't even remember what it does... ha

I am just now getting into performance mods though. I was all about aesthetics for the past few years....I thought it was pointless for a while to try and get more juice out of a 750 but I am slowing being proven wrong just by doing the bean box.

If you notice the change from the Bean Box mod without even seriously tuning your carb, you'll love the 4* mod. It's advancing your timing. On your electronic bikes, crotch rockets, sport cars etc it's usually done on a more precise basis with an aftermarket ignition module. On these bikes, the cheap and simple solution is to simply move the ignition pulse generator so the spark happens sooner. The design of the mountplate limits the possible advance to four degrees (your bolt will hit the housing).

All you need are basic tools, a dremel, a garbage bag, towel, plastic sheeting, whatever you want to use to seal off your crankcase while you're grinding, some RTV, and time. If you do the springs too, you'll need those, less than $20. That will firm your clutch up.

[snakeeyes]

Yeah I don't think I noticed a huge difference with the BBmod, maybe I will try the 4*. Or maybe step it up to a HC but I really don't like the look of them. I really don't know realistically how much power I can make out of this bike from where it's at now. Not sure if the extra work would be worth the difference. I had the throttle pinned today and though I was going fast(to test out performance) I didn't really feel any "power". It is only a 750.... :)

[lifeofchaos13]

Yeah I don't think I noticed a huge difference with the BBmod, maybe I will try the 4*. Or maybe step it up to a HC but I really don't like the look of them. I really don't know realistically how much power I can make out of this bike from where it's at now. Not sure if the extra work would be worth the difference. I had the throttle pinned today and though I was going fast(to test out performance) I didn't really feel any "power". It is only a 750.... :)

I dont know if it was just me "wishing" to feel more "uumpf" after the HC and jetting was done, but I noticed a little more up and go and ALOT more smoothness of running in general.

[JDRagsdale]

So I have a few extra jets laying around, including 130/132

I was wondering if those jets might be adequate for just a snorkel removal, or if they would be just far too big? The mod calls for 124/128, and obviously that would be the way to go, but I already have these, and was just wondering?

I currently have a stage I kit installed, V&H Cruzers with cut down baffles, and a 38t sprocket (along with some cosmetic mods etc.)

Last weekend, while working on a friends bike, I just popped out the snorkel for the heck of it, and it was so lean it literally would not make it 200 ft, so I was just wondering if I could try those jets, or if it would just be a waste of time?

Also, since just popping the jets in and out is all I'll be doing (everything else is done) is that something that can be done without removing the tank, etc? Not a huge deal to do, but obviously it would be easier and faster if I didn't have to remove everything...

Thanks for any help or ideas!

[deathbat22]

I'm gonna grave dig a little bit here...but has anyone had success with the Uni air filter? I think someone said they were gonna try it out but after reading the whole thread I don't think it was mentioned again. Right now I have Cobra classic slashcut...the shitty ones that don't have removable baffles.

I'm not sure if the previous owner rejetted the bike or not(the exhaust came with it when I bought it) Is a jet kit with springs and all absolutely necessary or can I just grind the high clips off the needles. I also feel like 134/138 mains are too big I'll probably end up trying out 130/135. I will also probably be buying a set of exhaust pipes from oomp. will the 130/135 combo work and the I could adjust them or would you guys recommend 135/140 for that kind of application

My tank is off my bike for painting so I'm gonna take advantage of the fact and probably get this mod done. Maybe I'll make a video out of it for the noobs

[mcvierh]

I'm gonna grave dig a little bit here...but has anyone had success with the Uni air filter? I think someone said they were gonna try it out but after reading the whole thread I don't think it was mentioned again. Right now I have Cobra classic slashcut...the shitty ones that don't have removable baffles.

I'm not sure if the previous owner rejetted the bike or not(the exhaust came with it when I bought it) Is a jet kit with springs and all absolutely necessary or can I just grind the high clips off the needles. I also feel like 134/138 mains are too big I'll probably end up trying out 130/135. I will also probably be buying a set of exhaust pipes from oomp. will the 130/135 combo work and the I could adjust them or would you guys recommend 135/140 for that kind of application

My tank is off my bike for painting so I'm gonna take advantage of the fact and probably get this mod done. Maybe I'll make a video out of it for the noobs

Those jets you asking about are way to big just for pipes.......but if your refering to using them with the Uni then yes start with the 134-138 combo, and bigger than shit this comes up all the time. If you Mod pipes and intake you shoot yourself in the foot if you don't invest in a stage 1 jet kit......sure it cost money, but why bother doing performance mods like pipes and breather and then leaving the stock needles and springs in the carb., that's called doing it halfassed.

[deathbat22]

The previous owner was a dumb bitch who let her father in law do all the mechanical work. She didn't know shit. If I pull the carbs and inspect the the jets would they have any markings of any kind to identify they are not the stock jets?