View Full Version : Engine removal
ITC(EXW)
05-23-2011, 10:35 AM
I want to tear down my VTX to the frame for a proper repaint of the frame and to properly paint the engine. I'm trying to figure out the best way to safely support the engine when I get to the point of removing it, and how exactly you do the step the manual so casually states "remove engine to the right." Yeah...
Has anyone done this? I have the harbor freight bike lift, (where the vtx seems to spend a lot of time since I bought it) but that doesn't support the engine.
Ideas?
I've never pulled an engine this big from a frame, or even half the size. LOL... This is a far cry from rebuilding a 250cc dirt bike.
hotpocket
05-23-2011, 11:16 AM
Put the bike on it's side use a hoist or ratchet straps. I've never had my shadow engine out, but this is how I did my cb750
VoodooMaster
05-23-2011, 11:18 AM
I want to tear down my VTX to the frame for a proper repaint of the frame and to properly paint the engine. I'm trying to figure out the best way to safely support the engine when I get to the point of removing it, and how exactly you do the step the manual so casually states "remove engine to the right." Yeah...
Has anyone done this? I have the harbor freight bike lift, (where the vtx seems to spend a lot of time since I bought it) but that doesn't support the engine.
Ideas?
I've never pulled an engine this big from a frame, or even half the size. LOL... This is a far cry from rebuilding a 250cc dirt bike.
Damn man, thats commitment...I dig it...
Aight. You got the manuel, I would also HIGHLY suggest that before you take bolts out, you mark them, or take pics of it...a photo reference sounds a little over the top, but just wait until yer in the moment...
I havent done an engine swap on one of the VTX's. so my question is this-
Is the frame solid under the engin, or does it bolt to the engine, or even bolt to itself?
It should be pretty straight forward, disconnect everything, again, PICTURES, and that motor will have to slide out the right side of the cradle...man this is gonna be a huge undertaing...I dig the commitment...but damn...you sure?
VoodooMaster
05-23-2011, 11:25 AM
Put the bike on it's side use a hoist or ratchet straps. I've never had my shadow engine out, but this is how I did my cb750
are you fuckin serious? the cb 750 takes ten minutes to swap out. we literally did it on the side of HWY 271 outside of Gladewater one Sunday. Motor blew, locked up the back tire, i rode her down got her off the side of the road, my wife and Brother went to the house, picked up a spare motor and we had it in and bike fired within 2 hours. I rode that bike back to my house. matter of fact, that bike is in my gallery I mean, if you are all alone, I GUESS I could see layin a bike over to take a motor out...but... i aint knockin ya but shit dude.
ITC(EXW)
05-23-2011, 11:48 AM
I was trying to avoid the laying the bike over route, because once the engine is painted I'd rather not but it back that way... The engine is mounted in the frame with a set of engine mounts, more like hangers. It is not supported by the lower frame members directly - but is mounted to hangers that are then bolted to the frame.
I suppose I could use an engine hoist to support it, then lift it a little and swing it out of the frame. Thinking out loud...
mcvierh
05-23-2011, 06:39 PM
Swing it out with a block and tackle and A-Frame, use nylon straps around the engine., now you have a rolling frame that you roll out of the way. And when your ready put it back in the same way.
CheeseMan316
05-24-2011, 12:06 PM
Why not just disconnect everything, two guys on one side, and pull it out. The whole bike weighs <700, the engine can't be much more than 1/2 of that.
woodytick
05-24-2011, 12:16 PM
ok i got it, un blot the engine from the frame. go find a HUGE flight of stairs..... then push that bastard over the edge. it'll be out by the time it hits the bottom.....
ITC(EXW)
05-24-2011, 12:59 PM
ok i got it, un blot the engine from the frame. go find a HUGE flight of stairs..... then push that bastard over the edge. it'll be out by the time it hits the bottom.....
I like this... I have a steep driveway, I could get it all unbolted then push it down. That would probably work.
Thanks for all the ideas... I'll use one of them and try to photo document the engine transformation. I have to wait for (1) some money and (2) the block off plates to arrive. While I've got the engine out I'll replace some of the hoses & check the valves etc... the stuff that will be infinitely easier with the engine out. It'll get a PAIRectomy before it goes back in. I'd like to decapitate the airbox too, but that will have to wait until I have money for pipes and jets. Unfortunately, my house keeps reminding me that I have to fix storm damage before I spend any more on the bike.
It does ride sweet though...
CheeseMan316
05-24-2011, 01:34 PM
I'd like to decapitate the airbox too, but that will have to wait until I have money for pipes and jets
Just do the SCAR mod. That's what KYCop34 has done to his.
I have pulled the motor out of the SS750 and put it back in with no help. I had to set the bike on one motorcycle /ATV jack in the rear and a scissor jack in the front. With enough room under it to place a bottle jack to pivot the motor to get it out. You have to have that under it to loosen the mounts. And the way the motor mounts in the only way to take it out is on the right side.
woodytick
05-24-2011, 04:36 PM
I have pulled the motor out of the SS750 and put it back in with no help.
yea thats not gonna happen though with the X engine. its just to damn big to handle like that.
CheeseMan316
05-24-2011, 04:44 PM
1300 VTX has the engine weight at 239.8 lbs
VTX 1800 engine weighs in at 310 lbs.
source
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=16519
Kycop34
05-24-2011, 04:59 PM
Just do the SCAR mod. That's what KYCop34 has done to his.
ITC.......Even with a decapped airbox and after-market pipes you can get away with the SCAR mod. It's relatively quick and easy.
My 1300 had a dynajet set up in it and we pulled all that shit out and put all the factory shit back in and did the SCAR mod to it. The friggen bike runs one hell of a lot sweeter now, less vibration, more power and smoother acceleration.
I've not had to touch the choke on it since doing the mod either and the only actual out of pocket cost is about a $1.50 pack of washers from Radio Shack.
Here's a link to a video on it....
http://www.goheengarage.com/tutorials.html
You can get a bit more out of it by replacing the main and slow jets with a Factory Pro stage 3 kit, a lot of X riders have went that route too. Just don't use the Dynojet kit it is crap....
edited to add the bit about jets.
woodytick
05-24-2011, 11:58 PM
tracy thanks for that link man.
ITC(EXW)
05-25-2011, 12:21 AM
ITC.......Even with a decapped airbox and after-market pipes you can get away with the SCAR mod. It's relatively quick and easy.
My 1300 had a dynajet set up in it and we pulled all that shit out and put all the factory shit back in and did the SCAR mod to it. The friggen bike runs one hell of a lot sweeter now, less vibration, more power and smoother acceleration.
I've not had to touch the choke on it since doing the mod either and the only actual out of pocket cost is about a $1.50 pack of washers from Radio Shack.
Here's a link to a video on it....
http://www.goheengarage.com/tutorials.html
You can get a bit more out of it by replacing the main and slow jets with a Factory Pro stage 3 kit, a lot of X riders have went that route too. Just don't use the Dynojet kit it is crap....
edited to add the bit about jets.
Thanks! I'm debating FP or SCAR, I learned about Dynojet with the Aero - I had to go out and buy a pilot jet separately to really get it dialed in right, despite Dyno's insistence that all you need is the main jet, needle, and spring. I still need the 4 bills for pipes and a K&N though. As much as I want to do the pipes first, money-wise what I can do now is starting on the blackout project.
But that means I tear the bike down and can't ride... :knife: I'm obviously conflicted here, lol... I made up my lists tonight of what parts stay chrome, what parts I paint, and what parts I want to powdercoat. I'd like to plunge in, but I don't want to do it half-assed so I need some fucking patience.
Kycop34
05-25-2011, 02:34 PM
tracy thanks for that link man.
No problem man, there is a lot of good info over on the Cafe....just takes a little patience and a lot of looking.
There are a number of active members there that put stuff like that together. Me and Cheeseman met him at the Columbus tech session and dude he is all about helping you figure it out out so you can do your own wrenching.
Another link that is pretty cool is Glen's VTX Garage - permanent A/F mix screw replacement....never have to remove the carb again to make adjustments (this is on my list to do). Or the Clutch pull relief...I have this on my bike and can hold the clutch lever in with my pinky finger if i wanted without getting a cramp for long periods of time. It reduces the pressure needed to engage the clutch and hold it by about 50%.
:thumbsup:
Kycop34
05-25-2011, 02:40 PM
Thanks! I'm debating FP or SCAR, I learned about Dynojet with the Aero - I had to go out and buy a pilot jet separately to really get it dialed in right, despite Dyno's insistence that all you need is the main jet, needle, and spring. I still need the 4 bills for pipes and a K&N though. As much as I want to do the pipes first, money-wise what I can do now is starting on the blackout project.
But that means I tear the bike down and can't ride... :knife: I'm obviously conflicted here, lol... I made up my lists tonight of what parts stay chrome, what parts I paint, and what parts I want to powdercoat. I'd like to plunge in, but I don't want to do it half-assed so I need some fucking patience.
Well a couple of suggestions here......since the scar mod is so cheap and would build experience in jerking with the carb anyway, i would go ahead and decap the airbox and do the scar mod...you'll be that much ahead of the game.
second suggestion is to scope out the vtxcafe.com and vtxoa.com boards for pipes for sale. I have seen a lot of good stuff on there for pretty reasonable prices and being located in Chattanooga chances are you can find some within a decent distance to save on some shipping. I guess it just really depends on what you are looking for in a set of pipes.
Like you said "Patience" is the key and i know it will be hard to have especially when the moddin bug is eating at you during the nice riding weather. I'm glad i dont have the funds at the moment to put me the position to have to make that choice....LOL
hotpocket
06-11-2011, 07:46 PM
are you fuckin serious? the cb 750 takes ten minutes to swap out. we literally did it on the side of HWY 271 outside of Gladewater one Sunday. Motor blew, locked up the back tire, i rode her down got her off the side of the road, my wife and Brother went to the house, picked up a spare motor and we had it in and bike fired within 2 hours. I rode that bike back to my house. matter of fact, that bike is in my gallery I mean, if you are all alone, I GUESS I could see layin a bike over to take a motor out...but... i aint knockin ya but shit dude.
chill dude. I didn't have two other people and i weigh about as much as 12 year old girl
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