Winter Mods? [Archive] - Shadowriders

M@Man

12-18-2005, 11:03 PM

Hey there folks! It's been too quiet in here lately so the question I pose to you is...What is on your winter mod list?

Mine, I plan on lowerin' the whole bike about an inch or two.
I've gotta figure out the kick stand problem I may run into, but I'll get it. Also I'm kinda nervous :xyxnervou about takin' the air-forks apart. From what I understand, they're not that much different from oil but...seein' as I've never taken either one apart, and this is my only ride, I don't wanna screw it up.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Let's get this part of the forum active again, we've been quiet too long.

M@

Oh yeah, it's 10 degrees out right now, so workin' in the unheated garage sucks!!!!

lang

12-19-2005, 12:54 PM

hey M@, good to hear from you!

I'm shavin' my seats this winter to make the rear seat lower and more conformed to the bend of the fender. The front seat is just getting lowered and narrowed. I may plop a gel pad in the front seat. I'll start on it after Christmas. I mocked it up in photoshop, I'll see if I can find the pic. I'm also trying to decide if I want to do anything fancy with the cover.

I'm still thinkin' about forward controls as well. I found a set for about $500, but I'm not thrilled with the design. They're from Germany and not imported to the US, but I can get them online. I need to talk to some local shops that could make me a set. I think I'd rather have a custom set. I've still got some $ from selling some guns this summer, so I should be able to cover the cost either way.

As far as the kickstand, I feel your pain. I'll be working on that this winter too. I've been trying to get an extra stand for cheap in case I mess mine up. I figure I'll either: (1) take it to a shop to have it bent about 15* or (2) just heat it up with a torch and lean on the bike until it's right.

Your front forks must be a design hold over from the '83's-'85's. I don't know if they changed to oil forks in 87 or 88, but I know mine are oil filled, so I'm no help there.

SeaBass

12-20-2005, 10:16 AM

It finally got cold enough to quit ridding for the winter so I got back to my chain handlebars and have printed out Lang's instructions for cleaning off the tree. I have all but the grips done on the bars and will post pics once I get that far. I figure I've got a months worth of grinding once it's all welded up but can't wait that long to start showing off :grin: .
Not sure if it was this site or another one but there were step by step instructions for forks somewhere. Something about using PVC in place of the old shims or something. I'll look around to see if I can find it again. If I get time I'm gonna do the same thing. Will likely use Progressives for the back to. I just have the thought in my head that I would like to leave the fronts the existing length and increase the rake instead of shortening them. Probably gonna take a master feat of engineering to do that though...don't believe I'm capable.

lang

12-20-2005, 11:13 AM

SeaBass, I didn't lower my front when I put the 11" progs on the back. Lowering only the rear will increase your trail somewhat, but I'm sure its still in the 2-3" sweet zone. In any case, I haven't noticed it handling different at all. So if if you like the higher front end, don't worry about the front.

But if you do want to lower the front: You've got an '87, right? I think you have oil filled forks like me. Lowering the front is pretty easy for us. Just unscrew the fork caps, take out the spacer tubes and replace them with shorter PVC tubes. M@'s got air forks (so M@, you've got little nipples on your forks to fill them with air, right?) and I don't know if the procedure is different with them or not.

M@Man

12-20-2005, 12:26 PM

Glad to hear from you guys.

Yeah, I have nipples :laugh4: on the ends of my forks. I also have air shocks on the back end too. That shouldn't be too hard though, just cut the springs down a little and adjust the air pressure and the back end should be lowered.
I've also got some chrome fork covers that I'm going to put on her, that will fatten up the look of the front end, but first I have to lower the forks by an inch.
Then my next worry will be the kick stand, but one step at a time.
I'm also gonna get bigger saddle bags, I'm going for a short and fat look for the entire bike, make it look a little more meaty.
I can't go any wider for a back tire, becuse of drive shaft clearance issues, but that's fine.
Although I really like the look of the bike with the gauge cluster removed, I think I'm going to leave mine alone, I kinda like havin' a tach.
But that's a personal choice and it's the little things that keep all our bikes from looking the same. Individuality, those personal touches that keep all the Shadows on this side from looking like cookie cutter bikes.

I just wish I had a heated garage :cry:

M@

lang

12-21-2005, 09:35 AM

M@ sounds like a good plan. Have you considered hard bags? Oh, and please Let us know what you end up doing with your kickstand, since I have the same problem. I'd love to swap it out with a chrome VLX stand or something, but I haven't found one that looks like it'll fit. Maybe a GoldWing stand, but that's not going to be any shorter. I bought a $15 heater at home depot to take the chill off when I'm working in the garage. That's what I'd recommend. Take care of those nipples!

SeaBass, one word of caution on removing the gauges - I assume that like my bike, your fuel petcock doesn't have a reserve setting. So, the only low gas indicator you have is your indicator light. Right now, I'm using my tripometer as a gas gauge, but I think I'll add a small LED to the airbox for a gas indicator. Without something, I think you'd be SOL.

ok, I thought of another. If you need to or give a crap about having your bike inspected, many states require an odometer, speedometer, highbeam indicator and blinker indicator (each state is a little different)

Oh, and here's a pic of what my seats (hopefully!) will look like. It's mostly foam work, but I'm planning on removing some of the pan on the main seat so it doesn't dip down so low on the sides of the bike:

SeaBass

12-21-2005, 11:45 AM

That does look good (seats). Getting a real smooth look to it.

Funny you should mention the gas indicator. Apparently that thing quit working some time ago. I found out the hard way on the interstate this summer. And I didn't do a very good job of judging it a couple of days later when I sputtered out 10 miles from work. I was fortunate both times to be fairly close to a gas station. Just kinda embarassing. I have since gotten much better at it and was planning on living without the light but I might consider hiding the light somewhere too.

Have you all come accross any cool risers for a decent price? Everything I have found that doesn't look pretty much stock is well over $100. I've got exactly $0 in the handlebars so far and sure hate to wreck that streak just for a set of risers.

RAZOR

12-21-2005, 12:08 PM

SeaBass

12-21-2005, 06:02 PM

Make it boilermakers!

amazngrace

12-22-2005, 08:25 AM

Hey M@ !!!

Your forks are pretty much the same as mine, just let the air out and take off the caps. You can make shorter spacers out of
one inch ( I think ) PVC. Just make sure you cut it square.

If you have or can borrow a 1/2 " drive speedhandle, it makes putting the caps back on without crossthreading a breeze.

...ED

M@Man

12-22-2005, 01:25 PM

Thanks Ed! :thumbsup: Nothin's gonna spring out at me, or shoot across the room when I open them up, is it?
I don't like surprises like that.

Lang, I think I'm gonna stick with leather on the saddle bags. It's just another preference of mine. My old ones are gonna go on Jeannie's bike, we're gonna try to get her a Shadow this year, she's out grown the Virago already and she like the feel of a Shadow compared to her bike now.
Keep us posted on your progress with the seat.

I'll keep everyone informed on the kick stand progress, I just may end up going to the local machine shop for help on that one.

And REMEBER (I'll try to do the same) take pictures as you do your work (especially seabass and those handlebars), and feel free to post them.

M@

amazngrace

12-22-2005, 07:35 PM

M@,

Take the air nipples off first and you can keep downward hand pressure on the cap as you make the last couple turns. There is spring pressure on the cap, but it isn't all that much.

Again a speedhandle comes in handy here too !!!

Don't lose any "O" rings ----

..ED

M@Man

01-07-2006, 09:02 PM

Thanks Ed! The front end was easier to lower than the back. The rear shocks were a pain in the ass!...but I got her done. Now I've got to tackle the kickstand issue.

M@

SeaBass

01-09-2006, 10:22 AM

Hey Lang...HELP!

I ran into a couple of problems getting my guages off and was hoping maybe you could shed some light.

First, probably not a big deal but, you mentioned in your instructions that there would be a harness under the gas tank to unplug. I see a harness that runs under the tank to under the seat but there is no plug under the tank.

Second, and more important, There are wires from the forward controls that plug into the same junction box behind the headlight as everything else. Not real sure what to do whith those especially if the goal is to get rid of that junction box.

Thanks for your help

lang

01-09-2006, 12:36 PM

hmm. . . I think we're discovering that the '86 is wired a little different than the '88. It can't be too different though, they both have the same electrical gear.

SeaBass, first, as far as the stuff plugged inside the headlight bucket: Behind my headlight, my bucket is filled with bullet connectors. I only unplugged and removed the wires for the indicator lights connected to the dash. But I left all the connectors and other wires in there. My turnsignals and controls are still wired in there (and later I reused most of the indicator light connectors when I added my new speedo).

Second, sounds like your wires under the tank are a little different than mine, but I'm guessing they're not too different. I have to pull up my tank anyway to add a fuel indicator light, so tonight, I'll do that and take a picture under my tank. Do you have a shop manual with wiring diagram? My guess is that if you follow the wires from your indicator lights, they'll go under the tank and disconnect under the seat to the plug you saw.

In other news, my seats are off and the covers are off. I've just begun shaving the foam - and, I'm remembering to take pictures this time!

SeaBass

01-09-2006, 02:13 PM

Yea, I was afraid of that. Had alot of the bullet connectors...unfortunately ALL of the wiring I need to keep there runs into the junction box. I'll check out my Chilton and see if there is anyway I can re-wire those items. I may have to keep the junction box...oh well.

Anywho, good luck with the seats. I just ordered some decorative bolts for the grip ends of my handlebars. Once I get those recievers welded in I'll get some pics posted.

lang

01-09-2006, 03:03 PM

SeaBass, what exactly do you mean by junction box? Are you saying that you've got wires from your controls going into the black plastic box with all your indicator lights on it (what I call the dash)? 'cause that's totally different than the way mine was set up. There was nothing in that box that couldn't be removed on mine.

If that's the case, if you want, let me know exactly what wires you're having trouble with, and I'll see where they are on my bike (probably in the headlight bucket). That might give you an idea on how they can be re-routed.

Hey m@, now that your bike is lowered, can you get it up on the center stand? I've recently discovered that with my 11" shocks, I just can't get the leverage to get it up any more (go ahead, make the joke). In general, I don't ride with my stand on, I just bolt it back on when I need it, but it looks like I'll have to get a cycle lift now. Curiously, when I had the cut shocks, I could still get it up on the stand.

lang

01-09-2006, 03:31 PM

ok, so I looked at the fiche for the '86 and '88 and the wiring is definitely different. If you pull up the fiche for the speedometer/tachometer on the '88 (see http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.asp), you can see there is a bundle of wires leaving the dash with a plug at one end (next to the number '24' which is a screw) (that's what went under my seat) and 5 bullet connectors (4 male, 1 female) that went into the headlight bucket. On the '86 and '87, there are 2 wires with what look like bullet connectors where my plug was and some long multi-pin connector thing where my 5 bullet connectors were. That's really weird - I have a feeling that my instructions are going to be of seriously limited use to you.

SeaBass

01-09-2006, 04:01 PM

Yup, the "Multi-pin connector thing" is what I am calling a "junction box". It is actually larger then what they have in that diagram. It does have a plain, flat black cover for it so it shouldn't look too bad if I do have to keep it. SON OF A! Figures! I was SO looking forward to getting rid of that shit.

lang

01-09-2006, 04:48 PM

that box must be pretty big. I didn't have anything like it. Where is it? Is it under the dash or what? I wonder if you could cut the whole thing off and just reconnect the necessary wires with bullet connectors and either stash them under tank or in the headlight bucket.

M@Man

01-09-2006, 11:38 PM

Hey m@, now that your bike is lowered, can you get it up on the center stand? I've recently discovered that with my 11" shocks, I just can't get the leverage to get it up any more (go ahead, make the joke). In general, I don't ride with my stand on, I just bolt it back on when I need it, but it looks like I'll have to get a cycle lift now. Curiously, when I had the cut shocks, I could still get it up on the stand.

I'll leave the jokes alone, you set yourself up and it's just too easy.
Anyway, no problems, I'll admit it takes a little extra umph...maybe you should work out. :laugh4:

Seabass, I wish I could help, but lang is the expert on the cluster mod. I hope you get it to work.

M@

Hey Seabass! Are you taking pics of this?
I'll post some of the Fork & Shock mod later.

lang

01-10-2006, 02:31 PM

admittedly, at 160 lbs, I'm somewhat slight, but me and a friend together couldn't get the bike up on the stand. We just made lots of gouges in the concrete garage floor. I'm thinkin' maybe I'll put a 2x6 under the rear wheel to lift the bike up a bit and give the stand a little more leverage. Fitting a lift to these bikes isn't pretty since so much falls below the frame, so I'd prefer to be able to use the center stand.

SeaBass, I didn't bother taking a pic under the tank b/c I think we've established that you don't have a plug like I do. If you still want a pic, let me know.

M@Man

01-10-2006, 11:40 PM

admittedly, at 160 lbs, I'm somewhat slight, but me and a friend together couldn't get the bike up on the stand.

I may be strong for my size, 5'9" & 180 lbs, but the real trick is in the leverage.
Stand on the left side of the bike, with your left hand on the handgrip, your right foot on the center stand and your right hand under the rear fender, put all your weight on your right foot and pull up and back with your right arm. Your left hand is used to just steady the bike.
Piece 'O Cake!
You can do that all by yourself in just 5 seconds.

M@

lang

01-11-2006, 09:46 AM

That's exactly how I used to do it. It doesn't work for me anymore. I'll play around with it some more this week.

lang

01-11-2006, 10:37 PM

alright, I worked it out. If I back the bike onto a 2x6 to raise the back end a little, then I can use the center stand with no problems.

I think the 11" shocks lower it just enough that the center stand can't get the proper leverage. Like I said, when I had cut shocks, it was no problem, so the extra inch or so that the 11" dropped the bike must have made the difference.

M@Man

01-11-2006, 10:48 PM

I just can't get the leverage to get it up any more...
It doesn't work for me anymore. I'll play around with it some more this week.

Just keep playin' with it lang and you'll be able to get it up all by yourself. :laugh4: :lol: :laugh4::lol:

Sorry the setup for that one was just to perfect to just let it go.
Any who, it does take some work.

I just got my forks back on today. I had to take them off to get the Chrome fork covers on, talk about your pain in the ass! I'm never doin' that again, they came out easy enough but putting them back into place was a work out and a half!
I almost made use of my dammit tool a few times, and I buggered up the air valve on the top of the left fork. That's easy enough to replace, it just pissed me off a bit when I saw what I did.
They're on and stayin on, I've still got to trim the "Honda" badge on the front so it will fit properly and reconnect my turn signals, tach, and speedometer....long story.
Now to address the kickstand issue.:thumbsup:

And comming soon will be...
New Footpegs
New Handgrips
Bigger Saddlebags

Til next time,
M@

lang

01-12-2006, 09:42 AM

M@, did you have to lift the front off the ground to take your forks off? If so, what kind of lift did you use. Which reminds me, when you polished your forks, did you remove them then as well?

I plan to mark up the foam where I want to cut it this weekend, but, we're expecting another son next month, so paintin' the kids room, etc has kinda taken precidence over my seats :cry: . Not to worry, though, I'm takin' some time off once he arrives so I'm sure I can sneak out to the garage now and again during my time off. We're seriously thinkin' of naming him Corbin. Do you think I can get a free seat or somethin' if we did?

btw, I've been practicing really hard getting it up, and I think I'm getting pretty good at it!

SeaBass

01-12-2006, 11:56 AM

Well, it isn't quite as bad as I thought. At first look that junction box looked like the wires were soldered like a bread board but now I see they are at least plugs. So, I can get the gages off pretty clean. I will investigate the possibility of doing the bullet plugs for the forward control wiring but if it looks too hairy it won't look bad with the cover on. Main thing is I get rid of the dash.

Yea, no need to trouble yourself for pics under the tanks. Thanks though Lang.

Ordered the decorative bolts for the grip ends of my handlebars today. Not even gonna reccognize this bike come spring!

I have been taking pics M@. Got it all so far...you've trained me well.

SeaBass

01-12-2006, 12:09 PM

Oh yea, Lang, did you see my post about the free Corbin stuff?

lang

01-12-2006, 12:15 PM

Oh yea, Lang, did you see my post about the free Corbin stuff?

I did, that's really interesting. There's gonna be a couple of lucky people, I'd say. Too bad they're not looking for 80's shadows.

M@Man

01-13-2006, 12:47 AM

I have been taking pics M@. Got it all so far...you've trained me well.

Yes, SeaBass-san, now you must post them. :karate:

M@Man-san

SeaBass

01-13-2006, 10:17 AM

I hear ya...gotta finnish SOMETHING first.

lang

01-13-2006, 04:03 PM

hey M@,

in my own search for kickstand ideas, I came across some instructions for a vlx lowering kit from scootworks.com. At the end, they discuss adjusting the kickstand angle. Here's what they say:

A simple method to alter the angle of the stand with a torch is to heat the kickstand, just below the lower spring tab, until the kickstand is soft enough to bend. Heat the kickstand until red hot in the desired location of bend. Lean the bike against the stand until the desired angle is obtained, then allow the stand to cool on it's own (DO NOT quench the stand with cold water!). I've altered many kickstands with this method successfully, and never had a failure.

Another method, is to place the kickstand in a hydraulic metal brake, and bend it just below the lower spring tab, about 15 degrees. This is my preference, and is about a 5 minute job. It typically does minimal damage to the chrome on the stand.

Other riders have removed the stand, cut it from it's hinge, and re-welded it at an increased angle. I've never tried this method, but have seen it done several times with success.

Another good and inexpensive solution for many bikes is to remove material from the front of the kickstand stop, allowing it to pivot further forward when deployed.

Once the kickstand angle has been altered to the desired angle, grind or file a small amount of metal from the kickstand "up stop", located on the frame. This is the small area that the kickstand contacts when in the "up" position. This will allow the kickstand to tuck in cleanly and very close to the frame when in the "up" position, and lessen the likelihood of dragging in hard left turns.

M@Man

01-13-2006, 07:14 PM

Thanks lang!

I just printed that out so I can take it with me out to the garage.
I haven't decided on the "Torch", "Hydraulic Metal Brake", or the "Cut and Weld" method but I didn't like the sound of the kickstand stop method. That doesn't sound like it would work too well with our style of kickstand.

Oh yeah, as far as removing my forks...I just had it on the center stand and placed a jack under the front of the bike and lifted from there. Not the smartest thing I've done, but it worked. :no:
That's probably why it was such a bitch to get back together, that and I left the front wheel attached. :rolleyes3

M@

lang

01-17-2006, 11:35 AM

Ok, no seat work this weekend because I got stumped in re-wiring my low gas light. But I'm slowly working it out.

Which leads me to a question for any and all with '86 - '88 vt700/800's: Does your gas light go from off to on instantly when the gas level hits reserve, or does it come on dimly as the gas level falls and then get fully bright shortly thereafter?

If I remember, the '86 has it's gas light at the top of the dash in a special oval window thing. On the '87-88, the light is a round one in with all the rest of them, but I'm assuming all 3 years use the same sensor.

lang

01-17-2006, 12:46 PM

hey M@, I know you said you didn't want to do hard bags, but I stumbled on this site with hard bags and I had never seen them on a vt700 so I thought I'd share:

http://tsukayu.com/Strong%20pic_hondaVT700.htm

M@Man

01-18-2006, 12:59 AM

question for any and all with '86 - '88 vt700/800's: Does your gas light go from off to on instantly when the gas level hits reserve, or does it come on dimly as the gas level falls and then get fully bright shortly thereafter?

Mine comes on gradually.

I checked out those hardbags, they're pretty cool lookin' lang.

M@

lang

01-22-2006, 04:48 PM

Ok, if anyone wants to relocate their gas light on a 86-88 vt700/800 - don't use an LED, use a small lamp instead. Apparrently, the gas sensor always allows some juice to run through the circuit - the amount increases as the gas level falls. Since LEDs take almost no power to light, your light will stay on. So, I found a wee lamp at Radio Shack and installed it. It seems to work. My only concern is that it will come on sooner than I want it to. We'll just have to see.

Oh, SeaBass, since I was in there, I took a pic of the wire harness under my tank as well, just for informational purposes.

M@Man

01-26-2006, 10:54 PM

Got my footpegs today, some assembly required. My handgrips were still on back order, but the guys at Garrels Honda had a set that cost a little more (like twice what I originally paid), they looked cooler too. When I asked him how much more he wanted for them he said "For you Matt, nothing. Take them home and try them out, if you like them let me know and I'll just cancel the other order." It that cool or what?
I did check out the price online too, just to see if I wasn't being played, and I wasn't, they were on the up and up.:thumbsup: These guys aren't your normal stealer, they really do give some good deals and do they're best to make sure you leave happy.
Anywho, I've got another thing to add to her now for this winter.
Comming up next...new Clutch and Brake Masters and Switch Boxes. :grin: Gotta wait for income tax return before I get those though.

M@

M@Man

01-31-2006, 09:11 PM

Okay got a couple of pics, so that means the mod is officially done!
Now on to the next ones!:happy2:

M@

lang

02-01-2006, 12:46 PM

Looks good M@. What kind of pegs are those? I've been looking at that style too - I like the wide rubber rings like on the VLX. Did you replace the rears as well?

I'm halfway through the foam cutting for the seat, but my son was born last night, so I think the project is on hold for a couple weeks. poor kid has no name yet, but we're working on it

RAZOR

02-01-2006, 01:13 PM

poor kid has no name yet, but we're working on it
HOW BOUT SHADOW. YEAH THAT SOUNDS COOL...:grin3:

M@Man

02-01-2006, 02:30 PM

First of all congratulations! :luxhello:
What kind of pegs are those? VLX ones of course, I got them from the local dealer for about $20 each. Yeah I put them on the back too, but you have to modify the rear mount bracket because the original pegs have a stop built in, and the VLX style will just keep slidin' on down if you don't fashion some type of stop.

Name?...well since your workin' on the seat mod, how about callin' him "Corbin"? :laugh4:

Congrats again,
M@

lang

02-01-2006, 02:59 PM

I'd be interested in seeing how you had to modify the rear - I knew the VLX and 1800's had weird rear mounts.

Razor, Shadow's not bad, but I was thinking maybe VT800. Seriously, Corbin is actually in the top three: Colin, Griffin and Corbin. We have to make up our minds by Friday when we have to submit all the paperwork.

RAZOR

02-01-2006, 03:24 PM

lang

02-01-2006, 08:57 PM

OR YOU COULD DO THE TRADITIONAL AND NAME HIM AFTER HIS
DADDY.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.RAZOR JR
:grin3: :grin3: :grin3:

Keep dreamin', stubby!

lang

02-09-2006, 04:22 PM

Alright, so we got around to naming the kid Griffin. Now I just have to find some time to finish my seat. I did pick up an extra kickstand to experiment on though.

gargoyle74

02-21-2006, 07:06 AM

M@Man

02-26-2006, 12:11 AM

Thanks for the input there, gargoyle74! It's always nice to see others put some of there own suggestions in here too.

As some of you may or may not know, I've been out of sorts lately, but I'm gettin' back to "normal" :laugh4:

I was flat on my back for a few weeks untill they decided my back was screwed up enough to do the surgury (L5/S1 Diskectomy, if that means anything to any of you) and I feel great now. Except for the fact that I've got crazy glue holding my back together.
Plus, I've been waiting for a call from Livingston County Sheriff's Department to tell me either way weather or not I've got a job with them as a Corrections Officer (I've still got my fingers crossed on that one.)
And to top things off Jeannie and I have found the house we want and are in the process of moving. We officially close on the 28th, so we're excited about that. I'll post a pic of the place here.
The well wishes from everyone here has been great!

I'll get some more pics posted of the bike and my latest mods after we get settled in the new homestead. Untill then, you folks keep moddin' your "Classic Shadows", keep sharin' ideas, and keep us all up to date on your "projects in the works" :thumbsup:

Later,
M@

lang

02-27-2006, 01:51 PM

good luck with everything m@! Do you think you have enough on your plate?

M@Man

02-28-2006, 01:36 AM

I'm just glad the band (http://www.gogetright.com/)doesn't have a bunch of gigs right now! :rolleyes3

But it's just like eating an elephant, ya just gotta do it one bite at a time.:freak:
Lucky for me, I'm an adult with ADHD, so that means I can do lots of things at once and not get too tired to get it all done. :laugh4:

M@

SeaBass

03-05-2006, 08:39 PM

Hey all...Long time no type. I've been kinda busy at work...trying to position for a "work from home" job so I can spend more time working on the scoot (suckers!).

Couple of catch up things...1. Congrats to the new rider Lang. 2. Gargoyle, thanks for the tips...any assistance on cool cheap risers is definetely appreciated.

Anywho, Here are a few of pics on the progress of the bars. Just threw the brake and throttle on to give ya an idear.

Started with a couple lenghts of chain, a broken set of dirtbike bars and some 3/8" wide plate. The one thing I don't have a picture of is the other set of chromed street bike bars I bought at the Honda shop. Total so far is 18$ for the bars, 6$ worth of plate and a couple of bullet bolts at $2 for a grand total of $26. That's all gonna change when I go to chrome em though.

I'll work on getting better pictures next weekend, I just took the last couple cause I was finnally getting someware and was excited about it.

Still got a little ways to go. A little more welding then a months worth of grinding but the structure is done anyway.

http://www.heatherselby.com/Outside%20Fun%20008.jpg
http://www.heatherselby.com/Outside%20Fun%20010.jpg
http://www.heatherselby.com/chainbar1.JPG
http://www.heatherselby.com/chainbar2.JPG

lang

03-20-2006, 01:42 PM

Seabass, those bars are really shaping up - they're really gonna be unique.

M@, I can confirm that heating a kickstand to red hot and then bending it works. I tried it on my practice kickstand last weekend and I think I got the angle just about right. Now I just have to figure out how to make it tuck up properly.

lang

04-16-2006, 03:17 PM

Ok, it's been dead around here, but I thought I'd post this anyway. If you lowered your classic shadow and need to alter the kickstand angle, here's a suggestion:

cut off the bracket with that rubber stop on it. You can also cut off the little arm that you use with your foot to lower the stand if you want because once the stand is bent, you can just use the kickstand foot for that purpose. I chose to leave the little arm.

With the stand attached to the bike, heat the stand red hot in 2 places (one at a time), right above the prong for the spring and right below it. I did the top first. Once it's really hot, start pulling the bike down, this will bend the stand. Once you get a little bend up top, heat the bottom and bend it again by pulling the bike down until you get the correct lean angle.

You might also want to grind a flat area where the stand now touches the ground so that you don't sink into hot asphalt quite so easily.

Doing this not only bends the kickstand out, but also bends it forward a bit. So, now you have to grind a little of the kickstand stop on the frame so that the kickstand tucks up nicely.

Now the stand will be discolored, so use some emery paper and a buffing wheel to clean it up. Then clear coat it so it doesn't rust.

I first tried a practice stand first from an '86 vt700 (see pic), which is functional, but I only bent it at the bottom and I think it's too severe of a bend. If anyone wants it they can have it for $15 to their door.