Gas Tank question

[Black label Shadow]

Ok here's my problem money is tight right now and I had a leak pop though the Bondo didn't know how bad it was until today when I took the Bondo off ALOT worse looking then I had hoped for I was hoping to find a little pin hole JB weld it re Bondo seal tank paint and be Happy, not so sure that's gonna work for me now what you guy's think I'm by no mean's a Body man done some body work but would it be possible to fix that hole not mention there's the 1/8 in above it and a pin hole beside it. will it be safe to fix the hole will it hold up? Thanks guys :cry:your out of work Shadow ownin broker then shit fellow forum member.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m411/Garyaaa_2008/Picture.jpg

[09zkrankin]

i am by no means known for being safe, but if it were me i would give it a couple of days to air dry and then try to weld em up, the small one wont be any problem but the big one im not sure about. It would be one of those deals where you weld, cool, weld cool, and so on. it might take forever, and could possibly never work, but i would try it. i know all about bein broke an it sucks. but if you try an fix it and it dont work you are no worse off than you were before just my .02

[InsaneWizayne]

I say JB Weld it, it may take a few hours to build it up but I used it to cover a hole in my radiator earlier this year and it's held fine. It's about the cheapest route you can go unless you or a friend knows how to weld...with someone that knew what they was doing you could put a small dent in it, take some fresh sheet metal, place it in the new dent to almost flush, weld it into place then bondo it up.

[ahjort]

Tap them in a bit with a ball-peen (so you can work some bondo over the patches). Then make a small plate to cover each hole (Very thin metal) slightly larger than the hole. Then JB Weld the patch over the whole being sure to get a good "seal" It should hold fine then just do your body work over the patches! Good luck! If the metal around the holes is thin from road rash you may want to extend the patches out to meet the thickness of the original tank skin.
If you should decide to try and weld it by all means DO NOT remove the gas or rinse the tank 1st!:laugh4: :thumbsup: :laugh4: :grenade:

[Gaylord]

Be VERY careful or tell us when so we can watch for rocket trail.With that said.1 warm up our car/truck.2 rig exhaust to blow into tank till its warm to the touch.That evaporates the gas fumes so it doesn't go BOOM.Then silver solder or repair as you want.It has to be very clean.Remove all bondo residue or it will not stick. Check with water to see for leaks.

[mcvierh]

Things You'll Need:

Epoxy Putty from your local Home Depot, Lowes or Auto Parts. Usually less than $10.00

1 piece of 50 grit sand paper
Rubbing Alcohol (http://www.ehow.com/shop_rubbing-alcohol.html)
A clean rag
vinyl gloves (optional)They will help keep your fingers clean.

Take the 50 grit sand paper and rough up the surface of the gas tank around the hole. Approximately 2 inch diameter circle.Wipe the roughed up sanded area with a rag and rubbing alcohol. To remove any road grime or dirt residue.Now take the Epoxy Putty and cut off a 1 inch long piece and knead it with your fingers till it is uniform in color. Once it is uniform in color you have a limited time until it gets hard. CHECK THE WORKING TIME NOTED ON THE PACKAGE!!!Now form the Epoxy Putty into the shape of a Hershey Kiss, or cone shape will do.,and stick the pointed side directly into the hole. Work the Epoxy Putty into the hole and the surrounding sanded area. You can smooth out the edges with a couple drops of water. The Epoxy Putty will dry and harden usually with in 15 minutes, it depends on the Epoxy Putty you use. It will leave a slight dimple on the bottom of the gas tank. You can now fill the tank.
Pulled this off the net.

[Black label Shadow]

Sweet you guys gave me some hope lol seen that today and thought oh shit there goes part of my riding season and mods I had hoped to do Thanks

[Black label Shadow]

I will keep you posted with progress and pics and let you know if it worked I can't believe someone would just Bondo over a hole that size it doesn't appear to have been any type of repair to the hole just Bondo over it took about 6 months for the gas to eat though it thanks for your reply's guy's I think I might try the small piece of metal JB welded over hole and just JB over the small pin hole then sealer kreem a good sealer?

[Black label Shadow]

If you should decide to try and weld it by all means DO NOT remove the gas or rinse the tank 1st!:laugh4: :thumbsup: :laugh4: :grenade:
right that will help it hold better cause it will get hotter and melt into the metal better gotcha you guys give such helpful advice:jamming:

[09zkrankin]

i hadnt thought of that epoxy putty but i used that once on a whole in the tank on my truck and it worked great. never leaked again. that would probly be the route id go after having my brain refreshed

[Black label Shadow]

Never used Epoxy putty have used JB Weld Epoxy sounds the easiest way to go plan is this week end looks like weather will be better I'm either gonna go with piece of metal lil bigger then hole JB welded on or Epoxy putty and was thinking I might roll the seams since I'm gonna seal the tank anyway all together maybe a $50 job get me though this summer hopefully get another tank just for ease of mind and not have worry about problems coming back she's my baby just trying to get it though this summer I gots to ride man :jamming: if things work out I wanna put a 8 1/2 flat fender on rear and a springer seat and some 6in Z bars and wrap pipes soon as money and wife permits :) Thanks guys

[mcvierh]

if you go to any auto parts store you can find the gas tank epoxy sealer, it comes in a stick about the size of a magic marker and is usually grey with a black core...you just cut off a piece the size of a marble and start kneading it till it's all one color then make a ball out of it with a point, shove the point in the hole, work the rest into the outside of the tank, slick it down with a few drops of water to the shape of the skin of your tank and usually within 1 hour fill her up with gas and go........no fuss, no muss.

[Black label Shadow]

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[09zkrankin]

LITENHEREGODDAMMEDSPAMMERNOOB< GETTHEFUCKOUTYOUARENOTWANTEDHERE, not talkin to you blacklabel, just our fuckin watch salesman tryin to jack your thread

[Black label Shadow]

I know I hate them sumbitches spammers

[Black label Shadow]

Got some Epoxy Putty today applied it built it up and around the holes a little put some gas in after it dried, let it set for about half hour on it's side so gas was right over the area of the holes, and it was bone dry still YES. so I sprayed the area with etching primer gonna roll the seams then get some sealer for tank I got some Bondo glass to re bondo it after done rolling seam and seal it then repaint done deal for far total cost so far with Bondo $26 thanks for your help guys:thumbsup:

[InsaneWizayne]

Glad to know something worked so you don't have to get a tank.

[Black label Shadow]

after filling holes with the putty I etch primered it. I put Bondo Glass over the area smoothed it out a bit it is maybe 1/4in. then regular Bondo over it 1/8in and sand and reapply and sand for a day making progress another day of sanding maybe a lil touch up bondo some glaze putty some filler primer to fill pin holes and it might be ready for paint. I didn't do the seam roll not gonna yall think I still need to use tank sealer?

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m411/Garyaaa_2008/DSC05385.jpg

[09zkrankin]

if it were me i would go ahead and seal he tank, becaus the area inside that whole has been compromised and wouls be volnerable to rust. in saying that if i were gonna have to re seal my tank anyway i would go ahead and roll the seams, thats why i didnt is because i didnt want to have to re seal it now, because i will hopefully be doing a tank stretch next winter, or maybe this summer if i run across a cheap tank.

[Black label Shadow]

Yeah maybe I will your Probably right im sure with there being a hole in tank there's gotta be rust should be treated and coated in doing so might as well, so what part of seam do you roll all the way around? seems like it would not roll real easy on front and rear of tank were it's arched for frame.

[09zkrankin]

i'll have to leave that one for someone else, i havent done mine yet and im not really sure about it. it seems i read a thread about it a couple of weeks ago, if im not mistaken it was by morph, that went into really good detail for what to do and stuff. From what i understood you just take a pair of pliers and start bending it over, then take a bodyhammer and bend it on in, but not for sure

[Black label Shadow]

Cool I'll do some searching just seems like it wouldn't wanna roll real good on the ends sides would be easy just don't wanna go and mess up tank after sanding on it for two days so far lol. just found about enough paint left from when I painted it last summer in garage to repaint tank so I'm I'm ready to get her back on road Thanks man.

[Black label Shadow]

question for you guys that used tank sealers whats a good one I went to local bike shop today the guy sold Kreem kits for $80 but said he wouldn't recomend useing any of these that they flake off after awhile get in your fuel and cause you more problems any input on this? all I've found online is KBR, por 15, eastwood and Kreem

[mavrick_69_us]

I've had pretty good luck with the Kreem kit. It has the cleaner, prep and sealer. Bout like anything else, gotta be cleaned and prepped. Even the most expensive paints or chrome will flake off if the surface is not prepared correctly. Also, gotta let it dry, I usually let mine dry for a week before putting gas in them. A week may be over kill but I've never had a prob with the shit flakin' off. 80 bucks sounds fuckin high, should be able to get it for half that, maybe 45.00. Rollin the seam isnt all bad, the front rolls over as good as the sides, just go a little all the way around each time. Then again you're listening to a guy that hacked the shit out of his bike with a sawzall and drill press. lol

[Black label Shadow]

Thanks Mav yeah I thought $80 was crazy price to found it on egay for $29 just thought id check local and get it faster but i can wait and the guy was trying to talk me out of it loosing $80 I thought shit better check with the pros first :grin3: Thanks for info.

[mavrick_69_us]

Thanks Mav yeah I thought $80 was crazy price to found it on egay for $29 just thought id check local and get it faster but i can wait and the guy was trying to talk me out of it loosing $80 I thought shit better check with the pros first :grin3: Thanks for info.



I'm not a pro by any means, just letting you know my experience with the product. 29 bucks is a deal. How much they dingin' ya for shipping?

[Black label Shadow]

I'm not a pro by any means, just letting you know my experience with the product. 29 bucks is a deal. How much they dingin' ya for shipping?
I meant pro by people who have used it not some guy behind the counter guy looked like only thing he ever got on his hands was ink . they want $7.95 for shipping not a bad deal.

[mcvierh]

There are several kinds of tank coatings offered for sale. I've only used one, the most common major brand, and I was not impressed. The tank I used it on was in like new condition with a small crack in the bottom that seeped gas. The tank had no rust in it. I cleaned, acid washed, and coated the tank, per factory instructions. I let it dry for two days with a very low pressure air hose circulating air to the tank. I put gas in and guess what ? It leaked right at the crack. I then soldered the crack and that fixed it. I figure that if it will not seal a good clean tank what chance will a rusty one have. Others may have had better luck, but I don't like paying $30-$35 for nothing. It is also true that I have not tried all the coatings on the market. The choice is up to you. One thing else to consider... I've seen a number of tanks where the coatings have come loose and it ends up quite the mess. So what to do ? If rust is the only problem here is what I do. I put some large nuts (off bolts, not the eating kind !) in the tank and shake it vigorously for a while. Then wash out as much rust as you can with gas. Now put the tank back on and put a see through fuel filter in the gas line to the carb. This will keep any rust or dirt from getting into the carb. When the filter fills up with rust, change it for a new one. This is the cheapest way to go. Food for thought as per Biker Dan.