I can see the spots i put bondo in through my primer! help!!!

[09zkrankin]

so i had to bondo a couple spots on my tank before painting. i went thrpugh all the prep and things that are mentioned, blocked the bondo down till it was all smooth and looked good, not wavy, no low spots, high spots, i thought i had knocked it out of the park for my first time doin this. so i got in under primer, about 3 or 4 coats, and i noticed that you can still see the spots where i put bondo. will this go away when it dries? i hope so, if not then what will i need to do to get rid of it? ive put a lot of long hard hours into the prep of this bike trying to make it look the best i can and really dont want it to look like shit. BTW, its not getting any paint, just black primer. thatnks in advance for your suggestions:madani:

[slowc10]

im no body expert by any means, but did you use sandable primer, anytime i did bondo i would hit it with the sandable primer then you could see any flaws and try to sand them out reshoot look again and again and again till it looked right. dont know if that helps any, but im sure someone will have a for sure answer

[09zkrankin]

yea, its sandable, i guess that is what i will have to do if it doesnt look better when it dries

[Paradox]

You don't say what it was you used. If it's rattle can it's thin and not really meant for coverage. There are two kinds of real paints used before a base coat/ clear or a single stage. "Primer" filler which is supposed to go on thick and be wet sanded to fill low spots and pin holes. Then there is Sealer which fixes the surface so no bleed through occurs and gives proper chemical bond for the follow on coats, it also keeps the follow on coats from chemically reacting with the lower coats of paint. Decent primers and sealers that actually do their job are not readily available in a rattle can. Find what you are going to use as a paint system and explore the offerings and stay within the paint system since most problems can be avoided by not mixing brands.

[rocksolid]

If you are using good primer it will cover easily regardless of the color you choose. Get your paints and primers from a autobody supplier, not the local auto parts. Primer has no drying time. It dries virtually on contact. I would sand all the primer you used off with wet sand paper and reprimer with good stuff. Primer is not a acceptable finish coat. It is porous and will allow water in causing rust. It has no durability and can't be waxed. If you want flat black, then paint it flat black.
What are you spraying with? How cold is your painting area?

[09zkrankin]

im goin the cheap route, i know that i should have used a good primer and sprayed it but that is not feasible at this time. i am using rattle can primer. i finally got this problem taken care of by just wet sanding and recoating, going to a finer grit each time until i got up to 1000 grit. it turned out pretty good, and i might flat black paint it later in the winter but i have found that most of the flat black paints i have used are not as flat as the primer, got a little bit of glare to them. but i got it took care of. thanks for your sugestions

[09zkrankin]

well, i dont live anywhere near the coast. im in eastern KY. So the saltwater air is not an issue. my bike is stored in a garage year round and the only time it will see the elements is if i get caught out riding in the rain( which happened ALOT when it was white, old superstition is that white bikes are "rain gods") but other than that it will never see rain. is the rustin still an issue? will the primer cause it to draw moisture in my garage? i was thinkin bout using the same high temp paint that i used on the fake chrome shit to go over and paint the fender and tank. will that help or does it have to have some sort of clear coat. i am really new to body work and painting. i know i shouldve done it right, but its not really a option at this time

[Paradox]

Yes, primer offers no rust protection no matter where you live.

[billace]

auto paint supply stores usually offer good primer in rattle cans also. more expensive than cheap ones but not bad in price overall. a few phone calls will tell you everything you need to know, you just have to call the right places and ask the right questions. just my .02

[Killette]

1000 grit is a little to smooth to spray a top coat on. I just use 320...here's a trick. Buy a small can of guide coat or charcoal to rub over the area you are going to sand. It will make the bike look smutty. Then just sand the guide coat away and it will let you know when the area is sanded enough. Spray can primer is not the way to go. It is way to thin and one day when you decide to do it right you will see that underneath all that nice spray can primer is rust. The only primer that wont wick moisture is a sealer primer. If you have any questions just PM me. In fact I'm actually painting my VLX tonight with a lace paint job.

[Timinator]

Killette......Photo-up NooB!!!

You're dead on with the rattle-can primer though. And I remember thinking the same thing.....you don't want to finsih your primer in 1000....400 at the smoothest. Guide coat is an EXCELLENT suggestion, especially for someone not used to blocking filler or primer. I have however used rattle can primer before on bodywork that nearly turned out perfect without pin-holes, sand scratches or any sort of real issue and then used a good, professional grade/paint supplier sealer and had no issue with water penitrating to the metal. The one good thing about the rattle can primer is since it has very little build....you don't have to worry about it shrinking up in the scratches much at all.
So are you another one of the guys on here who does bodywork for a living? Or are you a hobbiest?

[Timinator]

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[worldblowmetour]

Ill tell you what , everyone makes sense on here , a good spray can primer is called High Build by Upohl ,if you want a tits cheapy flat black look in a spray can buy trim paint , I like SEM , and when you spray it dont put it on heavy , put it on medium wet , and wait a couple minutes between coats , after that shit dries it looks amazing. Your primer spots were from the primer being cheap, kinda , and your cure time for the cheap stuff to setup was not long enough , remember you always block sand primer.oh and use a tack rag.

[Killette]

Timinator I don't do body work for a living but I do it as a side job, you can check out some of my paint work at edscustompinstriping.com and also at my bobber progress thread in the VLX section. Also the best Idea yet for a cheap flatblack paint job is the Trim Paint. It will hold up without a top coat and is pretty durable.

[Timinator]

[quote=Killette]Timinator I don't do body work for a living but I do it as a side job, you can check out some of my paint work at edscustompinstriping.com.quote]


Spectacular stuff Ed.....Lots of pin-stripers in this world, but your stuff has a wonderfully unique look to it. GREAT stuff. And you do this on the side??? Nice!

North Carolina?

[Killette]

Yep NC, and thanks.