burningshadow
04-17-2009, 06:18 PM
I just picked up and installed the switchblade 2Up windshield.
Here's a vid on it: Click on Tip1: http://www.metrictv.com/NewVideo/video_page.html#video
Reasons:
I want to reduce fatigue on long cruises and cut the cold in early late season riding. I also DON'T want to be married to a windshield all the time as I like the clean bobbed look and this jumped out as the only alternative I could find for this.
Cost: $245 + $10 S/H including the mounts which is usually sold separately. Found on ebay: http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Xtreme-Line-Products__W0QQ_armrsZ1 I have no relationship to them, just the lowest I found searching all over the F'ing place. I also got my detachable backrest, mounts, rack from them, I'll post another review for that in another post.
Review:
Details here for product: http://www.nationalcycle.com/catalogue/switch.html#
Windshield is off in literally 1.5 seconds, on in 5 secs. to seat properly. Mounts have a clean chrome finish(except straps:sad:) and are located on the fork tubes just about centered vertically on triple tree.
The top of the 2Up windshield is above my eyeline by ~3 inches and I am 5'8" riding a SS750DC. Although there is room to slide the mounts down an inch or two on the fork tubes, the bottom of the shield is too close to the turn signal housings to move lower. I'm not concerned as the whole reason I got this is for long cruises and 2up riding, BUT I can pop it off for a cleaner bobbed look. Get RainX in your kit bag if you might hit some rain.
As anyone would guess, the reduction in wind pressure is amazing and the turbulance is little around the helmet. The only negative I have is the lack of an angle adjustment to optimize the flow, though it seems fine as is. I can picture the slot bracket and single bolt that would be needed to do this, but I don't have time to F with it.
Installation:
Details and instructions here to make sense of my insanely wordy tips below http://www.nationalcycle.com/ispl/10-112205-000.pdf
At first a bitch to get straps around the fork tubes to slip over the nub on opposite side. You cannot stretch em by hand unless you've been picking up full steel drums in a warehouse with your bare hands for years. My first mistake was to use a wide flathead and try to angle in the corner, try to pull up and over the nub. Use a narrower flathead that is less wide that the NARROW part of the hole in the strap, insert into strap hole, then pull towards the nub, get the tip of the screwdriver over the nub and push the screwdriver forward leveraging it until the wide part of the hole seats over the nub and slides down. Be sure to ensure the strap is seated all the way down.
Wordy description, but it may save you sometime and prevent rub marks on the fork tubes from fucking with it. Also, place towels or something soft on the ground below the chrome hardware you'll be mounting next. One of the chrome mounting bolts slipped outta my hands and slightly nicked the FUCKING thing!!! My fault, shoulda prepped my work area.
Next thing you might find out is that the chrome mount points that screw down will have barely enough thread to catch after you place the chrome cover over the bolts/straps. You MAY have to get a channel lock pliers, wrap a towel over and around the chriome cover and forks tube, open pliers wide enough and bear down over the chrome cover and fork tube to allow bolt heads to extend out enough, with other hand, manually start mounts onto bolts, lather, rinse, repeat on other side. There are two washers included to go between top mounts and chrome cover...forget it as there was barely enough thread to get them started without the washer.
Summary:
5 out of 5 stars for my needs. Want the best of both worlds, get it. I hope this helps some fellow riders out.
Here's a vid on it: Click on Tip1: http://www.metrictv.com/NewVideo/video_page.html#video
Reasons:
I want to reduce fatigue on long cruises and cut the cold in early late season riding. I also DON'T want to be married to a windshield all the time as I like the clean bobbed look and this jumped out as the only alternative I could find for this.
Cost: $245 + $10 S/H including the mounts which is usually sold separately. Found on ebay: http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Xtreme-Line-Products__W0QQ_armrsZ1 I have no relationship to them, just the lowest I found searching all over the F'ing place. I also got my detachable backrest, mounts, rack from them, I'll post another review for that in another post.
Review:
Details here for product: http://www.nationalcycle.com/catalogue/switch.html#
Windshield is off in literally 1.5 seconds, on in 5 secs. to seat properly. Mounts have a clean chrome finish(except straps:sad:) and are located on the fork tubes just about centered vertically on triple tree.
The top of the 2Up windshield is above my eyeline by ~3 inches and I am 5'8" riding a SS750DC. Although there is room to slide the mounts down an inch or two on the fork tubes, the bottom of the shield is too close to the turn signal housings to move lower. I'm not concerned as the whole reason I got this is for long cruises and 2up riding, BUT I can pop it off for a cleaner bobbed look. Get RainX in your kit bag if you might hit some rain.
As anyone would guess, the reduction in wind pressure is amazing and the turbulance is little around the helmet. The only negative I have is the lack of an angle adjustment to optimize the flow, though it seems fine as is. I can picture the slot bracket and single bolt that would be needed to do this, but I don't have time to F with it.
Installation:
Details and instructions here to make sense of my insanely wordy tips below http://www.nationalcycle.com/ispl/10-112205-000.pdf
At first a bitch to get straps around the fork tubes to slip over the nub on opposite side. You cannot stretch em by hand unless you've been picking up full steel drums in a warehouse with your bare hands for years. My first mistake was to use a wide flathead and try to angle in the corner, try to pull up and over the nub. Use a narrower flathead that is less wide that the NARROW part of the hole in the strap, insert into strap hole, then pull towards the nub, get the tip of the screwdriver over the nub and push the screwdriver forward leveraging it until the wide part of the hole seats over the nub and slides down. Be sure to ensure the strap is seated all the way down.
Wordy description, but it may save you sometime and prevent rub marks on the fork tubes from fucking with it. Also, place towels or something soft on the ground below the chrome hardware you'll be mounting next. One of the chrome mounting bolts slipped outta my hands and slightly nicked the FUCKING thing!!! My fault, shoulda prepped my work area.
Next thing you might find out is that the chrome mount points that screw down will have barely enough thread to catch after you place the chrome cover over the bolts/straps. You MAY have to get a channel lock pliers, wrap a towel over and around the chriome cover and forks tube, open pliers wide enough and bear down over the chrome cover and fork tube to allow bolt heads to extend out enough, with other hand, manually start mounts onto bolts, lather, rinse, repeat on other side. There are two washers included to go between top mounts and chrome cover...forget it as there was barely enough thread to get them started without the washer.
Summary:
5 out of 5 stars for my needs. Want the best of both worlds, get it. I hope this helps some fellow riders out.